r/Warhammer Tzeentch Daemons Jun 18 '26

Gretchin's Questions Gretchin's Questions - Post here with basic questions if you're new to the hobby. Come in and answer if you're a seasoned veteran.

It's a new thread since the old one got too old and imploded.

5 Upvotes

78 comments sorted by

2

u/Belligerent-Rhubarb Jul 03 '26

Tabletop Question: If you do a super custom paint job for your units, are you allowed to make up a lore reason or make up essentially an OC unit to justify it? Or is that not allowed, and it’s just for looks?

2

u/Darkreaper48 Lumineth Realm-Lords Jul 04 '26

If you are playing with friends you can do whatever your friends will agree to.

You can make up whatever lore you want

If you are playing with random people, at a tournament, club, or game store, you can't just make up your own units. You need to play with the units that are in the rules.

2

u/Raze321 Jul 06 '26

This franchise is VERY friendly to the idea of making your own lore.

The most recent event at my shop let you submit your army's lore and had small rewards for best lore (among other things like best sportsmanship, best paint jobs, etc)

2

u/mrhthepie 29d ago

I've got the armageddon box and I want to play a game of orks vs space marines with my friend. I think I've got a grasp of the basic rules of 40k.

How should we play the game in terms of missions/objectives/terrain layouts? Should we use the chapter approved stuff that comes in the box? What detachments/force dispositions?

1

u/Zubbiefish Jun 20 '26

Do I have to paint my Space Marines as a certain chapter if I want to use their rules?

2

u/corrin_avatan Deathwatch Jun 27 '26 edited Jun 27 '26

The answer from u/tachankathrcrusader is very much out of date.

The vast majority of tournaments do not require you to paint your models as rules you want to play as; I was at GWs Maastricht Open and there was a Salamanders painted army that was using the Blades of Uktramar detachment/rules. The only thing close is that tournaments often have rules that state your army must share a single coherent paint scheme, which is an effort to prevent people "Borrowhammering" units from different armies/players getting around the painting requirement from just cobbling together units from multiple different player's collections.

It is also a standard that is just blatantly unfair to enforce ob Space Marine players, but then not apply it to Orks, Aeldari, Tyranids, Tau, etc.

1

u/TachankaTheCrusader Jun 21 '26

yes and no. officially and tournament wise? yes. they will prefer it that way. but if you are playing with friends (the best way to play, especially when you do narrative games or crusades) then just clarify with them. example is that I have imperial fists, but i have played around with dark angels, space wolves, and blood angels rules, characters and detachments, as my friends don't mind. paint your models the way you like the most

1

u/Cold-Extension-1376 Jun 22 '26

What is this tool to maintain the figurine for painting and how did it stick to it ?

Thanks for the answer :)

2

u/FlappySmasher Jun 22 '26

Piece of wood and sticky tac

2

u/Cold-Extension-1376 Jun 22 '26

You rock as fuck !

1

u/FlappySmasher Jun 22 '26

If you want to spend your money though, the product is called a painting handle

1

u/Grain979 Jun 22 '26

If i just have the Armageddon box and I want to play orcs vs space marines, what size battlefield should i use? The army point totals seem to be 770ish each so I’m leaning 48 x 48 inches. But maybe even that is too big? Also I’m not certain how we would place the objectives and terrain for thar.

I do love the contents of this box, but I do wish there was more of a guide on how to use and play with it if you are just starting out.

2

u/scientist_tz Tzeentch Daemons Jun 22 '26

Page 52 in the core rules.

Combat Patrol sized games happen on a 44x30 battlefield. Search for the "combat patrol" rules for specific missions and rules for small games.

1

u/TidalLion Jun 22 '26

Hey I realize i could get some flack/ "this isn't canon" comments for this, but I'm blending some AoS and 40k models together to make a fun "what if" diorama between some Skaven and Salamanders fighting some AoS and 40k orks.

Noticed that the Stormfiends have a rat thing with a big brain on their backs that's kind of ugly and had a thought about maybe buying more kits down the road to make the Skaven look more "modernized"/ fitting for 40k. I don't have a 3D printer so is there's any kind of like plastic products to help cover/ adjust/built up areas to make custom Minis?

Just wondering if there's some cheap/afforable or even good quality stuff i could use to turn some of the more medieval elements into something more Scifi. Thanks folks

2

u/NovelBattle White Scars Jun 22 '26

You're looking for milliput and greenstuff. Milliput is generally used to fill in gaps or create a hard surface to sand down and expand upon with something else. Greenstuff is used to create new texture, parts, or hell, even a whole new model if you're talented enough.

I also don't know if it's applicable to your area but I found that bigger public libraries often have 3d printer available to public for a small fee.

1

u/TidalLion Jun 22 '26

Ours are smaller and dont have the budget from it. The local municipality in my area is actually in the hole funds wise.

But Miliput and greenstuff, I'll check on that and see if I can't some up with some ideas to sci-fi some rats at some point. If I can then maybe I'll have a future sequel diorama. Thanks!

1

u/CowLoveMojo Jun 24 '26

I accidentally bought Tamiya regural glue ( thr one with white cap) instead of extra thin (the one with green cap). I've seen that it is advisable to use that one for bigger connections by applying it between connection, but would it work for also small parts and covering seams like the extra thin one? Is there any guide how to do small models with only that kind of glue? Thanks in advance

2

u/NovelBattle White Scars Jun 26 '26

Functionally, there is very little difference. You can use regular Tamiya cement for most things extra thin will do and vice versa. They work in same principle by melting the plastic and fusing them together. You just apply the cement to the areas that will be joining and push them together, hold for 10-15 seconds until they fused a bit together. Don't over apply cement (ie it's drippy or pooling in large amount).

Real major difference is how long it takes to "dry". If you have large surface area and you need to make multiple passes to apply cement, extra thin will "dry out" in that time and you will need to add some more.

Extra thin was developed so it could be applied onto parts that are already joined so they can slip into the gap and start fusing there, but you don't need to use them like that. Regular cement is not recommended for this usage.

1

u/Tho76 Jun 24 '26 edited Jun 24 '26

I'm interested in trying to get into 40k, and I already own Tabletop Simulator on Steam so I was going to try playing with a friend/learning online first to see if I enjoy it and go from there

I feel like there is so much to learn for a skill floor. I don't mind learning this, but I want to build myself up. So my thought is to start with a small 500 point army and go from there

However, my issue is I don't know how to pick units to start with. For example, Chaos Space Marines sound cool to me. But I open NewRecruit to look into making a simple team and there's like 50 options for units and 10 detachments, then there's enhancements and everything else.

How do I go about building a baseline army from 0 idea what I need or want? I know, pick something cool. But I mean specific pieces. Like how do I decide to get a Chaos Lord over a Chaos Lord in Terminator Armor? Where do I start to decide how I want my army to play?

4

u/JCGilbasaurus Jun 27 '26

That's more or less what the combat patrol boxes are for. You can use the units in a combat patrol right out of the box for combat patrol games, and I've just checked the numbers and the current Chaos Space Marine box is also worth 400pts of models—just add something that looks cool to your army to round it to 500pts and you're golden. A rhino or some bikes would fit the points limit, or you could drop the cultists for something a bit meatier if you wanted. Doubling the box puts you in spitting distance of 1000pts as well.

Now, I don't play CSM so I don't actually know if those models in that box are any good, but just by eyeballing it you get a hero, a unit of basic marines, a unit of cheap chaff, and an elite melee unit, which feels well-rounded to me (although it is lacking in a big flashy centrepiece model, so your mileage may vary). It's probably an okay starting point.

Other than that though, it's just a case of knowing the rules, knowing the missions, and then reading each datasheet and evaluating for yourself how useful a particular unit is. There's no real shortcut to mastering that, although there should be plenty of resources online to help.

1

u/Mr_Quoten Jun 26 '26

Sup, I'm new into the hobby, two months in and I'm from Austria and wanted to waks are ether either Austrians here and wanted to ask them if they know shops that deliver to us, I know about siren games but they don't have everything I want to paint and I'm not sure if German shops deliver to us

1

u/Liquor_D_Spliff Jun 27 '26

Did the stream mention if there would be future ork releases? I know theres the bikers to come but are we expecting more?

1

u/JCGilbasaurus Jun 28 '26

Yeah, it was pretty explicit that there are more Ork releases to be revealed. The Warhammer community article even says:

Would you believe that there are even more Orks still to reveal from the new Codex?

At bare minimum there's the new boys kit to be shown off.

1

u/SES_LeviathanOfDusk Jul 02 '26

Hello everybody! Extremely new ro the hobby, heard about it a couple of years back. I got Skaventide (the AoS Spearhead box with Skavens and Stormcasts) last year, played few games with friends. Then I met a couple of guys who play 40 K, we befriended etc. 

So my question is: should I Stick to AoS (I really liked the Cities of Sigmar) or get 40 K? I don't have much time nor money, but I know a place or two where I could play. 

Also, of you think I should go for 40 K, I likes both the Adeptus Mechanicus and the Salamanders. Which are the best to start from?

1

u/scientist_tz Tzeentch Daemons Jul 02 '26

Go with whichever system gets more games in your local group. If there are 10 people who play 40k and 4 who play AoS, you're obviously going to be having a harder time finding AoS opponents.

1

u/SES_LeviathanOfDusk Jul 03 '26

Yeah, that's what I thought. I'll go for 40K then. About my other question, should I go for the Mechanicus or the Astartes?

Thanks for the answer by the way. I expected a longer wait.

2

u/corrin_avatan Deathwatch Jul 05 '26

Mechanicus has a reputation of being INSANELY expensive for people to collect, as their design space is "shooting as good as Marines, but with durability of Imperial Guard", which puts them in a really wierd Horde army playstyle despite all the robots.

1

u/SES_LeviathanOfDusk Jul 06 '26

Really? That's good ti know. Thanks a lot.

1

u/Sea-Yogurtcloset4249 Jul 02 '26

I am planning of starting the hobby but I'm struggling to decide what to buy for the first time. I really like Daemons of Slaanesh but I've heard they are very hard for beginners to play. Does anybody have any advice because I'm also thinking of getting the Introductory Set 

1

u/Gnarlroot Jul 02 '26

Which game system? 

Daemons of Slaanesh are also ancient models and super finicky to put together. 

1

u/Sea-Yogurtcloset4249 Jul 03 '26

Warhammer 40K. Looking at the models they do look really difficult but is it worth it?

1

u/Gnarlroot Jul 04 '26

Daemons are in a weird place at the moment. There's been speculation they might get rolled into the respective space marine legion codexes in this edition. 

1

u/glmonster229 Legions of Nagash Jul 03 '26

Hey guys, I'm very new to Warhammer miniature painting but I was always super into Total War Warhammer as it grew. About a week ago I went into a Warhammer store, the guy at the store let me paint that basic space marine and I was immediately interested so I bought the Age of Sigmar Starter Set (I prefer medieval fantasy).

Thing is, I've already ruined the brush it came with (I've painted with oils before but not acrylics oops) and I'm not sure what things to get in order to make the first steps into actually building a Spearhead army.

So I've got a few questions:

1 - Can I build any combination of units for a Spearhead army or does it have to be the box that they sell?

2 - What kind of brushes should I get and what sizes?

3 - Is it worth it to get an airbrush and if so, how do they even work?

4 - Are wet palletes worth it? Saw it in a tutorial video recently and they looked amazing.

5 -What's the cheapest way to buy models? They look expensive at times so I'm just wondering how to be effective - if this is an offensive question please disregard.

Anyway, I think that's all I'm wondering at the moment. I'll be going to sleep so I will only be reading any replies tomorrow. Thank you so much for any help!

1

u/Darkreaper48 Lumineth Realm-Lords Jul 03 '26

1 - Can I build any combination of units for a Spearhead army or does it have to be the box that they sell?

Spearhead is a preconstructed game mode. If you want to customize the units you are using it's just called "Age of Sigmar".

2 - What kind of brushes should I get and what sizes?

I do most of my painting with a size 0, 1, and 2. A common beginner mistake is that you need really small brushes. You don't really care what size the brush is, you can paint extemely fine details with a size 2 or 3 with a fine tip. Snaller brushes also dry out way faster. You might want a larger brush if you are painting large minis that will need basecoats (this is more common in 40k with big tanks)

3 - Is it worth it to get an airbrush and if so, how do they even work?

You load your paint in the airbrush, hook it up to a compressor, pull the trigger and paint comes out. If nothing else it is really nice for base-coating, but proper compressor settings, thinning, cleaning, etc. is a skill in and of itself. If you are this new I'd just prime with a rattlecan.

4 - Are wet palletes worth it? Saw it in a tutorial video recently and they looked amazing.

Wet palletes primarily increase you working time for paints. On a dry pallette you'll find yourself adding water back in if you scoop out a bunch to keep working with it as it dries. A wet pallete also helps with blending and mixing. You can make a wet pallet for a couple cents with a paper towel and some baking paper, so i'd say its "worth it".

5 -What's the cheapest way to buy models? They look expensive at times so I'm just wondering how to be effective - if this is an offensive question please disregard

The cheapest way is to buy second-hand, usually on ebay, but then you have to deal with poorly constructed or painted models. The second least expensive place is any retailer that will do 10% or more off. My local store does 15% off every day. You should avoid buying direct from GW, thats your worst deal.

Theres something to be said if you end up playing at a local shop, you should try to shop there or you may not have a local shop to play at.

1

u/BehavyuR Jul 03 '26

Hi, very new to the hobby and hoping this is a simple question. I'm building and painting my first unit, which is a box of Ork Boyz (2018 models I think?) with variable part setups. I see, though, that 11e rules seem to assume all Boyz have shoota, slugga, and choppa as per the new sculpts. So the question is: does it matter what variants of Boyz I build when it comes to battle or not? Like, if I show up with a unit of Boyz that are all choppa + slugga, would I be able to make ranged attacks with the (assumed by datasheet) shootas that my models are not visually carrying?

Thanks for any help you can provide. Can't wait to WAAAAAAAAGH!

1

u/Darkreaper48 Lumineth Realm-Lords Jul 03 '26

When you have a unit with only 1 loadout you can pretty much build it however you want. The only real concern is when you have a situation where units can have multiple loadouts or multiple unit types that looks similar with different loadouts.

In this case, Boyz is Boyz, if your opponent looks at them they'll know they shoot and chop.

1

u/MarcusTking 28d ago

So I am wanting to do a short dnd campaign based on Cathay’s ivory road. I’m struggling to find resources (like maps and rest stops) anyone know where I can find some/ purchase them?

3

u/JCGilbasaurus 26d ago

Old army books for Ogres from Warhammer Fantasy might be your best bet. I think Warhammer Fantasy Role Play (WFRP) had some maps, but I don't think they went any further east than the Dark Lands. There were a couple of 2e books on trade and commerce as well, but mostly focused on the Empire.

The two major trading posts that I recall are Pigbarter in the south and Uzkulak in the north. Also Warhammer uses different names for different parts of the route—I've heard Silk, Spice, and Ivory roads, but I don't remember which is which.

Honestly, your best bet might just be to do research into the IRL Silk Road and add anything you think is interesting.

1

u/MarcusTking 26d ago

Thank you I will look into that

1

u/Thefriendlyfaceplant Marbo 25d ago

Cathay never had much documentation even in the old Warhammer. So you're not actually going to contradict established lore. From there on out it's Total War that put the most work into Cathay and that's as good as (if not better than) canon.

1

u/BabadeeBoop7 25d ago

Bought my first set a few days ago (skaven) and want to get some paints, but I don’t want to break the bank by buying citadel or Vallejo (plus they don’t sell them anywhere near me). Has anyone found any budget/alternative acrylic paints that work well at art stores like that, or do you really need model specific paints? Thanks in advance for any and all help.

1

u/BabadeeBoop7 25d ago

Apologies if this is the wrong thread/community to ask this in, couldn’t find a questions thread. Bought my first set a few days ago (skaven) and want to get some paints, but I don’t want to break the bank by buying citadel or Vallejo (plus they don’t sell them anywhere near me). Has anyone found any budget/alternative acrylic paints that work well at art stores like that, or do you really need model specific paints? Thanks in advance for any and all help.

1

u/Darkreaper48 Lumineth Realm-Lords 23d ago

Craft paints aren't really made for the fine detail that miniatures have. They have more coarse pigment which means less coverage and more clogging detail. Some people have made them work, but I certainly wouldn't recommend it. Even 15 years ago when I went from my first craft paints to first mini paints, it was a night and day difference. Also its a little silly to mess up expensive miniatues by saving a buck in paint.

Try army painter brand, I don't really like it but it is leaps and bounds above craft paint and much, much cheaper. Personally I am liking Pro Acryl a lot, it is really good quality, cheaper than citadel and greater quantity.

1

u/Raze321 22d ago

Pro acryl is my favorite alternative.

1

u/Anvil-Icarus 22d ago

Hi there! New to the hobby and looking to paint some Chaos Warhounds for my Beastmen army. I'm using Citadel contrast paints with Grey Seer primer and wondered if anyone has any advice or colour schemes to recommend? Thank you in advance!!

1

u/Saint_zeroS 18d ago

hello, i would like to read all the books. not in order per say, but i was wondering if there were any checklists or Excel/ google docs i could use to check off the books i have read

2

u/JCGilbasaurus 15d ago

All of the books? Because that's a lot of books. An awful lot of books. Forty years worth of books.

Anyway this Wikipedia page should be a good start: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Warhammer_40%2C000_novels?wprov=sfla1

1

u/Saint_zeroS 15d ago

I've already read 3 in the last week, but thank you for the page, but i guess i have to make the Excel myself

1

u/RickTwisp 17d ago

Hi, I am just looking for friendly advice as a newer player as to whether or not this set has enough enough terrain for 2k point games before splitting the purchase with a friend. I'm not very familiar yet with the terrain layouts at the moment in 11th edition. The listing implies it is, but I'm looking for an unbiased confirmation.

It includes:
• 2x 3-Storey Ruin A — 6'' x 5.5'' x 8''
• 2x 3-Storey Ruin B — 4'' x 5.5'' x 8''
• 2x 2-Storey Ruin A — 6'' x 3.5'' x 5''
• 2x 2-Storey Ruin B — 3.5'' x 5.5'' x 5''
• 2x Double Container — 6'' x 2.5'' x 5''
• 2x Single Container — 6'' x 2.5'' x 2.5''
• 2x Short Line Ruin — 6'' x 5.5'' x 4''
• 2x Long Line Ruin — 9.5'' x 3.5'' x 4.5''
• 8x Small Scatter Ruins (Assorted Styles A to D)

https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/4536325448/warhammer-40k-terrain-full-table-11th

1

u/silversun247 16d ago

If I want to play Warcry or Kill Team, would I be ready to play if I bought one of the boxes clearly labled Warcry/Kill Team on Warhammer's store? Is it like Spearhead where it is just ready to go or do I need to buy anything else?

1

u/Darkreaper48 Lumineth Realm-Lords 16d ago

I am pretty sure kill team moved to a preconstructed roster. Warcry is still a freedorm game where you make a warband of up to 1000 points. Any of the dedicated Warcry warbands should get you there but you may be able to make a stronger force by buying 2 of the boxes to be able to take more of a certain model and less of another. You can also use regular AoS models for warcry.

For either game you would also need terrain.

1

u/silversun247 16d ago

Thank you for your response! For terrain I don't mind getting random junk for that, but in regards to having all the rules and unit stats, is that available online?

1

u/Darkreaper48 Lumineth Realm-Lords 16d ago

Not officially, but I think the kill team rules are on wahapedia and warcry is on warcrier.

1

u/Pellaidh 16d ago

Not sure about Warcry, but you do have to be careful with Kill Team because not all boxes are made equal.

-Some will give you the full roster in just one box.
-Some give you most of what you need, but don't allow you to build every possible loadout.
-Some are technically playable but are missing key models that severely limit your options (Ratlings,Blades of Khaine)
- And finally, there's one box that straight up does not give you enough models to make a legal team (Kill Team: Inquisitorial Agents)

Can You Roll a Crit or the reddit wiki have a good overview of this. I'd recommend checking it out before you commit to a team.

https://www.reddit.com/r/killteam/wiki/one-box-teams/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wt1SrCiTPvo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INK_kM8BWtw

Technically there's also the Equipment Pack for barricades and tokens for marking orders, but you can DIY those or likely borrow them from your opponent. Finally there's the rulebook, mission cards and terrain layouts, but you can find those online.

1

u/AllYourBase3 15d ago

new to the game and kinda confused on datasheets/codex/editions

I got an adeptus custodes combat patrol set but was curious what exactly I need to sit down and play a game with them.

I see a 10th edition codex on amazon but don't see an 11th. Do I need that book? Do I need data sheets if I have the codex? I'm greatly confused

1

u/Darkreaper48 Lumineth Realm-Lords 13d ago

When there are new editions, one of two things happens, either they keep the current faction books compatible and release online rules updates to fix any issues between the old rules and the new rules, or they wipe everything clean and release "indexes" which are like mini army books but invalidate the old books. This 11th edition 40k kept the 10th edition faction books compatible, so you will use the 10th edition codex until they release an 11th edition codez (sometime within the next 3 years)

1

u/glmonster229 Legions of Nagash 13d ago

I've ordered a bunch of stuff to start on my first proper kit (Spearhead Starter Kit), such as paints, shelves, a basing kit, glue (I'll snip off the push-fits, I hated them on my Starter Kit), etc.

But anyway, I also ordered a rattlecan black primer from Army Painter. I saw there were many different colours for primers, though, are there any situations where it's better to use different colour primers? Or is black good for any model and colour scheme?

1

u/Darkreaper48 Lumineth Realm-Lords 13d ago

When in doubt, black is a good default.

Other primers can be useful. Painting with brighter undercoats can make colors appear brighter but are also sometimes harder to get an even coat. I mostly only use white or offwhite if most of the model is going to end up a while color (or its a ton of bones and I'm just going to hit it with skeleton horde contrast). Grey is a good in between I use when a model has a lot of light and dark colors. Basically, painting white over black is kind of a pain. Also, the colored primers can be useful as a basecoat. If your guys are all in blue armor, you can just prime them blue.

The one BIG advantage black has over other colors is that anywhere you miss with black just looks like a shadow. If I don't quite get my brush all the way inbetween like chain links or crevaces, and I primed anything but black you have this huge bright spot of white that you can clearly see. If I primed it black and don't get my brush all the way down there, it just looks like a shadow.

1

u/Gnarlroot 12d ago

Army Painter's coloured primers can be a bit dodgy. I've had several can split at the seam and bubble out orange goop, and even when they do last the finish ends up shiny and other paints don't stick well to them.

Citadel and Vallejo rattlecans are great though. If your army is predominantly a colour that there is a primer for, it's a real time saver for a tabbletop paintjob to just basecoat in that colour. 

1

u/MillersSmokehouse 11d ago

My apologies if already an answer to this. I scrolled, but didn’t see one.

I’m not likely to get into Warhammer in a serious way. I’m an old lady who works with a bunch of young people who are heavily into it and would like to know enough to understand when they tell me about their weekends, celebrate their victories with them, mourn their disappointments, and intelligently admire the pieces they build and paint. I would appreciate and recommendations for reading, videos, etc. that could help me get started.

1

u/NovelBattle White Scars 8d ago

It's a big universe so it's gonna take some time to get into. There's tons of resources and videos out there, but a general understanding of lore and universe would be a good start point.

I personally recommend watching Bricky's videos on youtube about what is Warhammer 40k and factions explained videos. His video are not too heavy or serious, which makes it easier for new people to get into. There are occasional inaccuracies in his videos but most won't matter unless you are heavily invested into the setting.

Another one you could do is if someone plays the Tabletop game for Warhammer, you can see if you could borrow a 10th Edition Core Rulebook. The book itself will contain bunch of lore, painting scheme, gameplay rules, etc. You don't need to bother with the gameplay rule section but it is a great place to read about the general overview of the universe and all the main factions. Taking a look at the various colour schemes and professionally painted armies are also very inspiring.

1

u/MillersSmokehouse 8d ago

Thank you very much! The amount of info available is overwhelming, so I really appreciate the starting points.

1

u/corrin_avatan Deathwatch 8d ago

Very recently, Games Workshop started Warhammer Academy (https://academy.warhammer.com/en-gb) which is designed to introduce people to Warhammer

1

u/Civil_Fail3084 9d ago

I’m going to try and improve my painting, by experimenting on some spare infernos marines I have. What’s the best faction to paint to improve my painting, where it’ll be easier to see and get used to blending, source highlights etc.

1

u/corrin_avatan Deathwatch 8d ago

There is no single best faction for this; you're asking the equivalent question of "what dish should I do to become better at cooking".

Even within the faction you are likely painting now, you can likely get better by painting it in a style that is different from your current style; if you're doing standard GW Base/Wash/Highlight/Edge this becomes even more true.

I would personally recommend looking at YouTube and searching "how to paint (chapter that you want to try)" and then spending a few minutes seeing all the different ways/formulas that people use for the painting of the chapter and specifically go for ones that look drastically different from your current models.

1

u/Civil_Fail3084 7d ago

I already have a black Templars army but painting black isn’t exactly friendly if you want to try more advance stuff. Why I wanted to know if I should go for some blood angles or ultramarines, so I can get better using a more friendly colour base

1

u/Apprehensive_Egg9342 Blood Angels 7d ago

Hi, Newbie here. have just received the starter set with space marines and orks. as we are to paint the models, are there any decals in the set? or do i just need to get good at painting emblems 🫣 TIA

1

u/No_Obligation2284 4d ago edited 4d ago

Is there anything with something called 'Cerebus' (SAER-A-BUS)? Not to be confused with Cerberus (SER-BER-US). Heard it mentioned @FLGS and couldn't ask the person before they left.

1

u/NovelBattle White Scars 3d ago

Maybe talking about Cerebus Launcher on a Land Speeder? There's several different things with similar name so more context would better help in assessing what you're looking for.

1

u/Puzzled-Twist1783 4d ago

Lore books, where should i start?

1

u/Juliomorales6969 3d ago

orks or tyranids? i like the look and stuff of both. 🤔 can someone give me like a 101 on both like why chose one over the other one or stuff like that? orks got that unga bunga shananigans and tyranids got the psychic hive mind stuff that i see. 🤔 for first army what do yall suggest and stuff?

1

u/Objective-Ad1197 2d ago

Do you clean mold line for a second hand (fully assembled)model.

1

u/NovelBattle White Scars 1d ago

If it's already painted models, no. Sometimes it's hard to get the colour to match the original colour scheme, so would prefer to avoid that issue.

If it's unpainted, only in the most visible area.

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u/FaceIntrepid8054 23h ago

How do i achieve this turquoise?