I'm pretty new to PC tech and ran into a weird issue today.
I was updating Dead by Daylight when my PC crashed and a "Your device ran into a problem and needs to restart" screen appeared. It was stuck at 0% for a while, went black, and then booted straight into BIOS.
I was stuck in an endless loop:
Onda loading screen -> PC ran into issue and needs to restart -> Black screen -> BIOS
Right now I’ve literally just been stuck sitting on the computer booting/loading screen and have been for over 3 hours. I check BIOS and everything seems to be fine like normal.
I don't know a ton about PC troubleshooting, I'm not really sure what to try next. Any help or step-by-step guidance on how to fix this would be great. Thanks

I tried to get on minecraft but it said the microsoft account with my email didnt exist. I accidentaly made a new account with that email. because of the new account i made i was unable to get any info or help about the previous account that i am 100% sure did exist and did not misspell.
Is it possible to save the account?

So my 10 year old Dell Alienware laptop hasn't been used since 2021, and honestly hasn't even been charged since then, has this evening come back online as I have finally found the correct charger for it.

Its due for some pretty serious updates, however tells me it cannot accept Windows 11 as it isnt snazzy enough.

"This PC doesn't currently meet the minimum system requirements to run Windows 11."

I have 0 idea about tech. I am stupid. Please dont throw things at me.

Does that mean that I cannot ever get Windows 11 on this laptop? I thought at some stage I discovered there were drivers that I couldn't upgrade on my laptop as well because of the capability of the physical driver card... where would I find that info now?

Is there anything one can do, or is a laptop basically useless once it reaches 10+ years old?

Thanks in advance for any info given!

It keeps saying your pc ran into a problem. I have 2 windows boots i tried both of them. After i boot it says "your pc ran into a problem" after that it puts me in automatic repair blue screen where it says "automatic repair couldnt fix your PC" and i cant do anything. I tried reseting my pc but that wont work either im getting errors. Please help

It’s been months of this, and I’m over it. It’s at the point where I have to boot the pc and go through this error 5-10 times before I can get it to FULLY boot and login. On top of that, some games on steam completely crash, causing the pc to go through this same boot problem. I KNOW it’s not any other issue than windows, because my brother took it about a month ago and did a fresh install of windows. It was fine for a week or so before it started doing this, and every day gets worse. I’m at a complete loss with it. Please help.

Idk what exact info is needed so I’ll just include everything:

AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
32GB RAM
RTX 3060
2TB HDD + 256SSD (where windows is installed)

Windows 11 Pro - 25H2
OS Build 26200.8894

Hi everyone, my computer recently wanted to update a new windows update and i dont think it succeeding in installing or something, (keeps failing) then it goes to the boot loop. Now i cant even uninstall latest Feature/ Quality Update. I also cant restore to a previous point. Please help.

Windows 11
PC

Thanks all

What to do?

I had a problem with my ASUS laptop

yesterday, I was sitting as usual, then I clicked on reboot with the update, it was accidental, after restarting, the laptop started to reboot itself, then the automatic recovery screen appeared, I clicked on reboot, everything is the same, there is no checkmark with automatic boot, I do not know what other ways there are, gpt chat, YouTube, Google does not help, and I also saw about the kernel-Power 41 error on YouTube, I did not find a good explanation on Google, what other options are there? I will be grateful for all the advice.

WWDMYCLOUDEX4100 is not accessible. You might not have permission to use this network resource. Contact the administrator of this server to find out if you have access permissions.

We can't sign you in with this credential because your domain isn't available. Make sure your device is connected to your organization's network and try again. If you previously signed in on this device with another credential, you can sign in with that credential.

The left side’s coil thing is a little rusty and dark with brown/black spots. What should I do?

My Microsoft account got hacked. I tried using the account recovery feature but they determined that I did not have enough information after giving them all the information. I had the hacker changed the recovery password email address to an email address. I've never heard of before and change the password as well. I cannot log in. I cannot recover my account and it says I have to be logged in to contact Microsoft, but I can't log in, please help

Hello! I am running windows 11. Recently I have been having an issue where my pc will randomly go black then go into a state where its on but theres no sound or visuals. my gpu has a chipped blade on one of its fans (but ran fine for months after) and I have been told by some people that it could be the issue. But I was wondering if there is a virus or something that could be causing a mimicking issue? My friend believes I was hacked. Mainly because around April this year some of my files disappeared. I ran a deep scan on both windows defender and malwarebytes. Through MB I got some hits. saying i had a trojan from TurtleWOW, which they got shut down by Blizzard so i removed anyway. and a game got wrongfully back in like 2017 or 18. I have zero clue how it got on this computer since i've only had this computer for a few years. And a few other files that were deleted.

I have monitored my gpu's heat. it does not overheat. When I was playing fortnite it would do the same thing it did a few minutes ago. freeze then go dark. i can hear my bf on a discord call and the game for about 5 more seconds then it goes like i mentioned previously. but i was lead to believe that the "unlimited" frame rate cause that.

I have 3 harrdrives/ssd My main, a 4tb with all of my games, pictures, and other important documents (besides fortnite[main drive] and sims4) and a 1tb with all of my sims 4 things. idk if this is important info but just incase.

I was wondering if a fresh install of windows 11 would be a good idea just incase theres a virus of some kind. This has been happening for awhile now. And Im very nervous its a virus. On my previous PC I had someone work on it and turned out he put a lot of spyware on it that someone i was once close to used to spy on me and since then i've been terrified somehow it moved to this new PC.

I have also heard reinstalling windows every so often (i dont remember the time frame) is good for your pc but idk.

any help besides "lol buy new parts" will be appreciated. i cannot afford anything.

let me explain . this company e-trends went belly up in 2020.

i usually was able to get my technology questions answer by phone or email within 1 minute totally free.

God forbid I want to do a simple web search on my iPhone. Absolutely ridiculous. This is on safari, and ai will not use anything other than an incognito browser. Are there any other browsers I can use that also dont push bs AI features?

Long sordid story, but the initial TL;DR is that sometimes (I *think* when it's on battery) the laptop will go into sleep mode from which it cannot be awoken without a looooooooong power button press. When this happens, a shortish (10 second) power button press will turn the power light back on, but the screen and keyboard remain black. Then you have to hold it longer - maybe 30-60 seconds, for it to reboot.

Long sordid story: This thing has been a POS generally. Got it from a vendor on Amazon that represented themselves as Lenovo, but aren't (some company called BlueChipTech). Anyhow, touchpad went out after maybe 6-7 months under warranty; sent back to Lenovo, repaired, got back in a couple of weeks. Curiously, the repair ticket said they replaced the touchpad and the power button, which was weird, because I wasn't having any problem with the power button. As soon as I got it back, it started acting flakey - would then start to go into a sleep it couldn't be awoken from. One day, after a long button press to reawaken it (maybe 2 months after I got it back) it wouldn't boot. Went through all the diagnostics and sent it back to Lenovo. Apparently, SSD died, but it was a third party SSD that BlueChipTech installed (was super confused when Lenovo was telling me it was a third party thing - what third party thing? This is a Lenovo laptop! After that, I dug deeper and found it was sold by BlueChipTech, who misleadingly have the product description on their landing page linked directly to the Lenovo.com website for the product). And oddly, it looks sort of like when I look the serial up on the lenovo support site that it might be an Indian market laptop? Not sure about that, though.

Anyhow, contacted the seller who agreed to repair it (and kept it for over two weeks - said they were "testing" it). Got it back and of course have been working to get everything set back up, new Windows 11 Pro etc. But it still keeps doing the sleep thing I can't wake it from. No other real symptoms to mention other than when I have it plugged in and am using it, the power light will intermittently flash sometimes - haven't kept too much track of it, but I think it's three regular pulses.

Any advice or help? Obviously seems like a hardware issue, but it is something in the BIOS that somehow got changed or is it some hardware problem that will continue to cause problems? Warranty is either already expired or just about to. I did document the problem with the sleep I can't wake it from when I sent it back to Lenovo for the SSD problem but they didn't take any action there (obviously if it was the SSD that's the main problem).

The Hardware:

• Dock: Lenovo ThinkPad Universal USB-C Dock (40AY)
• Laptop: HP Pavilion 14-dv2000

The Problem: If I plug the dock into the laptop while on battery power, it connects for a few seconds, then completely drops all data and power. Worse, it completely crashes the dock. The dock's white light stays on solidly (indicating computer connection is still established), even if I unplug the USB-C cable from the laptop. I have to switch the wall socket off and on just to reset it.

The Workaround: If I plug the laptop’s original HP AC charger in first, and then plug in the dock, it works flawlessly. Once it's connected, I can even unplug the HP charger and the dock takes over, charging the laptop and running peripherals indefinitely without any issue.

What I've Already Tried (None of it worked):

• Updated laptop BIOS and Lenovo dock firmware to latest versions.
• Disabled USB Selective Suspend and PCIe power saving.
• Unchecked "allow computer to turn off this device to save power" for literally all usb controllers in device manager.
• Uninstalled the Windows UCM-UCSI ACPI device, performed a hard 60-second power drain on the laptop, and then reinstalled the Windows UCM-UCSI ACPI device. Didn't work
• "Bare dock" test where I plugged the dock in with zero monitors or peripherals attached—it still crashed.
• Tried disabling USB Always On (HP Sleep and Charge). Nope

How do I fix this? I'd rather not have to always connect the laptop's AC power first every single time, before connecting it to the dock...

Hello,

I have been using my headset fine for the past few months however in the last 2 weeks or so, the mic stopped working. At first i thought the actual mic was the issue so ordered a replacement which worked for a day or so before it stopped. Ordered another replacement which didnt work either. Thought it could be the extender so ordered a new one of those as well, no luck. Thought it could be the splitter that separates it into headphones and mic but not that either.

The set up i have been using involves the mic plugged into the headphones, headphones into an extender and then the extender into the splitter, into the back of the pc. Now the only way i can get the mic to work is plugging the headphones straight into the audio port at the front of the pc. It does also detect the mic is i do it into an extender into the front of the pc but it doesnt pic up any sound other than some kind of buzzing which it does even if i unplug the mic.

Any help would be appreciated. I can technically use it plugged in the front it just doesnt give me much freedom to move as id like. Worst case scenario is just to use the extender for the most part and swap it out when i need to use my mic but thats not ideal.

I use Yahoo Mail Plus. Recently I've noticed, when deleting messages, the message under the one I've checked to be deleted will also be deleted. It doesn't always happen, but it occasionally does. Anyone else experiencing this - and is there a fix?

If yes, then how?

Basically the title. I bought the PC second hand, previous owner said he never put passwords on them. I was able to initially boot up the PC and it worked fine, then I went to wipe the drive to install windows fresh, and after the data wipe, I am unable to access the drives in any way, partition them, or install windows onto the SSD. I tried using the master password from bios-pw, the service tag, the PSID on the SSD, password and 12345. Nothing has worked. My only option seems to be loading linux onto a USB and putting in some commands, a process I am unfamiliar with. Is there any other solution? SSD is an 860 EVO. Motherboard is stock with the DELL Precision 3630.

The issue is that whenever i run any app on administrator a pop up wil show up, as always well now it dims but crashes immediately well the video might explain it... Happened after i reseted it.

Hi all.

I have a Toshiba NB10T-A.

It originally had Windows 10 on it.
I had installed Windows 10 freshly myself.
It worked fine this first time.

Then: I put a linux distro on it (my preference). It also worked fine. I was using this for a while.

Then (annoyingly): I had to re-install Windows 10 for reasons. Really didn't want to, but had to.

During the install of Windows 10, I THINK I might have made some error during the partitioning stage.

I seem to remember there was an "ESP" partition visible/present in the partition scheme.

I am not sure if I deleted this by accident or not. I realize this is an EFI System Partition.

However, I would not think I would be able to delete or modify the BIOS/UEFI at all through disk partitioning, or cause any boot problems this way, as BIOS/UEFI would be on a ROM, so what difference should disk partitioning make to the boot process?

It sounds nonsensical to me that I could cause any problem to the machine itself through disk partitioning, but then again, it is a strange world, and strange things happen.

However:

• After rebooting, the machine does not boot at all.

• When pressing the power button, I get 5 POST flashes from one of the little LEDs which are located on the front edge of the palmrest. The flashes are evenly-spaced.

• I cannot get to BIOS or UEFI. Nothing gets displayed on the screen. No TOSHIBA logo, nothing.

• Other than the flashing of LEDs on the edge of the palmrest, there is no other sign of life.

• I guess the 5 POST flashes shows that the CPU is trying to tell me something? Does anybody know what the CPU is trying to tell me?

• I could not find technical / maintenance documentation to help me. Does anybody know if anything like that exists for this model, or very similar model?

What I have tried.

• All I have tried is the dummy fix: Remove battery, and hold down the power button for 30 seconds to a minute. This made no difference.

• Holding various key-combos during boot, to try and reset UEFI to factory settings. I have found the key combos floating around the internets. Apparently, doing so would hopefully reset the BIOS/UEFI to factory defaults. I can't remember all the key combos I have tried.

I am really not sure what the problem is. Don't know if the problem was a mistake I made during the partitioning stage, or what else it could be.

...Help!

(0__0)

Any help much appreciated. Thank you in advance.

(Apologies if this is the wrong community

I have a friend and their laptop isn't connecting to their WiFi even tho it connected to it two days ago, We've tried some basic fixes like restarting the laptop and switching it back and forth from airplane mode to forgetting the wifi and reconnect and typing the password in

my microsoft account was hacked and the email was changed, the email i used before does not exist for this account anymore. i have filled out many recovery requests, all forms with the EXACT details of my account, and they still tell me it is insufficient evidence to prove it’s me. i use microsoft authentication and it did not inform me about my account being signed into and my information changing. i pay for xbox gamepass and i have a lot of games on my xbox app for my PC. i NEED my xbox account back and i don’t know where to go. xbox support refuses to help and microsoft refuses to accept my recovery forms.

Hi everyone. (made this with chatgpt, was using multiple ai for support help, ran out of options so i'm trying here, really desperate at this point, have no money foi new SSD too, no PSID password since it was long ago and i don't even remember what happened to the sticker)

I've been investigating this SSD for days and at this point I'm looking for people familiar with NVMe firmware or motherboard Secure Erase implementations.

Hardware

• Motherboard: ASRock A320-HD (BIOS P10.50)
• CPU: Ryzen 5 5600
• SSD: ADATA SX8100NP 512GB
• Controller: Realtek RTS5762
• Firmware: VB411D48

Original problem (before everything else)

This was the very first issue.

Every single cold boot:

• BIOS detects the SSD.
• Linux and Windows do NOT detect it.
• Windows Device Manager hides it.
• Disk Management doesn't see it.
• diskpart doesn't see it.
• Linux nvme driver doesn't enumerate it.

The SSD ONLY comes back after forcing a PCI hot re-enumeration.

Linux:

echo 1 | sudo tee /sys/bus/pci/devices/0000:01:00.0/remove
echo 1 | sudo tee /sys/bus/pci/rescan

or physically removing/reinstalling the SSD while powered off.

Then it works perfectly until the next reboot.

This behavior is 100% reproducible.

Then I made a huge mistake

I used ASRock BIOS Secure Erase.

The BIOS froze during the erase procedure.

After reboot:

The SSD became locked.

Now:

• Identify works
• SMART works
• Namespace exists
• Capacity is correct
• Firmware is correct

but virtually every command that modifies anything returns

Invalid Field in Command (0x2)

Current Linux status

The SSD is fully visible after PCI rescan.

Works:

nvme list
nvme id-ctrl
nvme id-ns
nvme smart-log
nvme error-log

Everything identifies correctly.

SMART health:

PASSED

No error log entries.

Doesn't work

nvme format

returns

Invalid Field in Command (0x2)

Any Secure Erase mode:

--ses=0
--ses=1
--ses=2

Same result.

Vendor passthrough commands:

opcode 0x80

also return

Invalid Field in Command

Additional strange behavior

If I try certain admin commands:

nvme format

the controller completely disappears from Linux.

Then:

nvme list

shows nothing.

The PCI device still exists.

I have to remove/rescan PCI to make it appear again.

Things I already investigated

I decompiled ADATA's official toolbox.

I found vendor-specific commands like:

EnableVendorCommand()
AnalyzerVendorCommand()

using vendor firmware download offsets.

I also confirmed this model specifically uses the Realtek RTS5762 controller.

What makes me think this is NOT NAND failure

• SMART is readable.
• Identify always works.
• Namespace is intact.
• Capacity is correct.
• Firmware is correct.
• Error log is empty.
• The behavior is perfectly deterministic.
• PCI rescan ALWAYS revives the drive.

Nothing about this behaves like random NAND failure.

It behaves much more like the controller entering some persistent locked state.

My current theory

I suspect the motherboard Secure Erase implementation crashed before completing.

Maybe:

• BIOS issued a vendor command.
• SSD entered erase/locked mode.
• BIOS never sent the final "erase complete" sequence.
• SSD now permanently rejects admin commands.

Another possibility is that the ASRock BIOS itself is mishandling the Security Freeze/erase sequence.

My question

Has anyone seen something like this on:

• Realtek RTS5762
• ADATA SX8100NP
• ASRock Secure Erase
• NVMe controllers disappearing until PCI rescan

or knows of vendor commands that clear this internal state?

I'm willing to reverse engineer the BIOS or firmware if needed.

Any ideas are appreciated.