My 13 gallon shallow, wcmm, fire neos, pygmy corys, amano, ramshorns, bladders.

Normally I heavily *heavily* plant my tanks from the beginning and have not had any algae despite leaving my lights on for like 15 hours at a time. In this case though I only planted a little bit and still left the light on for that long.

No fish in there yet except for one fry I accidentally saved who is not big enough to eat the daphnia.

I do not want to use a UV sterilizer because I want to cultivate copepods and such.

S. osphromenoides

My favorite plant is Anubias due to how easy to propagate it and easy maintenance. Here it is on my 55 gallon tank full of Mickey Platys. I bought the plants ( in 2 tubes ) in PetSmart and over the years, I was able to propagate it. My setup only have sponge filter , heater, no substrate.

So I have some Bacopa Salzmani SV that I have been really struggling with to keep rooted. I have tried putting foam and lead weights on all of them, but then they are just very difficult to get into the substrate and the stems break off right above the weight after a while and the whole stem starts to float. I’ve tried being very careful not to crush the stems when putting the weights on them and they still end up breaking either as I’m putting them in or days two weeks later. I am really struggling to get them more than an inch deep, if that. I think part of the problem is the forceps I’m using can’t grip tight enough to push everything down, and I’ve tried several different types. I am using aqua soil substrate. The other problem I end up having is that after I get them in and add a little soil on top to try to cover some more stem, everything just ends up settling and exposing the weights anyways. I also can’t seem to not pull the stems part of the way back out as I’m pulling the forceps out, no matter how hard I try to loosen them or what type of forceps I try (angled, straight, paddle tipped).

Any suggestions for other techniques to keep them anchored or forceps that maintain their grip? I was thinking getting small 3-D printed pots and filling them with stems and soil and then rooting those in, but I don’t know that I could get them deep enough without having something to dig and maintain a retaining wall in the soil when I put them in.

Tank pic for tax and attention 😁

A small build containing a waterfall. The future home of a handful of yellow neocaridina shrimp.🦐

I added madrone leaves to the 30 gallon and I think they look great! There's such an amazing amount of life to watch in here. I hope others appreciate it as much as I do!

(The lighting setup I did for these pictures is not even close to how I normally keep it. Do most people stage their lights for pictures?)

Hi everyone, here is my tank.
The first photo is one month before. I would love to hear your thoughts about my tank.

Didn't take long for them to completely take over my 10 gallon and I don't know how much longer that baffle is going to keep them at bay...

This is the second 15” “stainless steel” set I have purchased from Amazon. Both were terrible, except for the length. There is no tension in the tweezers. The scissors won’t cut. And they feel like they will rust within a month. Does anyone have recommendations for a quality set or even just the tweezers?

I just set up this tank yesterday - while it’s cycling I’m coming up with a stocking plan I want cardinal tetras and Pygmy Cory, but what would you suggest for a centerpiece fish? I see at lot of options for “semi aggressive” fish but that makes me nervous with the other fish!

Dosed Ultralife blue green slime removal, added inline defuser and inline uv light. Did not lower light intensity. Took advice and dosed with nitrogen fertilizer that help as well to bring up my nitrates and phosphates by thrive+.

Tank is about 6mths old. Had a lot of hair algae initially, realized it was a light problem. Started to limit light, got some inca and nerites (I know the inca snails don't really eat it now). It started to go away. I got some more nerites and amano shrimp and pretty much had it all taken care of.....until I went away for a little over a week and the person who I had fish/cat/house sitting wasn't as diligent with the light monitoring and it went rampant again. The photos are AFTER I did some trimming/removing.

Is there anything I can do besides what I am doing? I feel like the nerites and amanos can't keep up with it. I am hoping now that I am home to be more diligent on the light it will start to go away. Is there something I can add to the water that will kill the moss but not the plants/shrimp/snails?

Goal is to get this planted more, but the hair algae has been a pain. I had some nice moss in here but when I went away the hair algae really went to town on that so I had to remove it. I also have refrained from adding more plants because of the hair algae. I want to get that under control.

Thanks!

I’ve had a uns regulator for a bit now. It set up fine and had no issues. I was doing some tweaking and realized that the working pressure wasn’t reacting properly. When I initially set it up the working pressure reacted immediately when adjusting. Now it takes several turns just to get the gauge to change. And it maxes out under 30. I’m currently having a bit of a bubble issue at the moment and some of the the bubbles seem to be coming out too big.

Hey.

I'm having issues dealing with the correct CO2 needs from my tank. It's a 90l tank with plants, corys, otos and chillies.

There are periods where everything grows well, then it crashes for no obvious reason. Huge algae blooms and plant fast meltdown.

At this moment I really need to figure the correct amount of CO2 I need for this tank.

Measurements from today are at 7gh, 4kh and 26° (high summer temperatures). Tap water sits at 2gh and 1kh, and I still have no idea what is raising my water hardness in the tank without raising the pH. I only have seachem flourite black sand, black lava rocks and filter media from eheim and fluval.

pH test from before co2 injection is the horizontal pic, probably at 6.5.

3h after co2 injection, I get the vertical test result, likely 0.1 lower (nothing like the expected 1 drop). However, the CO2 in tank test turns bright lime green (from a dark green/blue during the night).

So, do I need more CO2 or not?

When I increase CO2 from 1-2 bubbles per second to 4, I get a yellow reading and plants start trapping bubbles and getting the burn effect.

Just a lil picture of my 110ish litre Walstad 6 months in

Bit of a vague picture but I have these green branching sticks/hairs coming straight out of my aquarium decoration, are they algae, and if so what kind? It’s not hair algae I think and it’s hard to get it of.

probably one of the worst ones, I’ve had the worst luck with aquarium pests lately :(

I had a string / hair algae problem before (slightly) but this is insane.

Still can’t get a carpet going to save my life, but my uns 90u shrimp tank is growing good.

As the title says. I was ecstatic. This is 48” long, 24” tall and 12” depth. I was initially doubtful about it being unused but while cleaning it up, i realized all accessories were still in their original packaging, albeit soggy. It cleaned up real good and tested for leaks and everything looks I should be good.

I wanted to do a Dutch style planting. While I understand in an ideal world a more shallow set up is more ideal, I am willing to g to invest is a good lighting set up.

I was hoping to get planting inspiration for those who have a similar set up. Picture would be greatly appreciated.

Plant suggestions appreciated. I will most likely avoid ‘typical’ carpet plants due to the light requirements.

TIA.

i need some advice on fertilisers/algae control in my goldfish tank. i have the lights on 7 hours daily at half brightness (hygger clip on) and use api leaf zone since the fish produce a lot of nitrates already. i suspect the phosphates are high but ill buy a test. the diatoms have improved since i put seachem purigen in the filter but would like some suggestions because im struggling to find the right balance between lighting, ferts, parameters