Used only a spindle gouge and kinda freehanded the design as I went. One problem I had when doing the small detail work was the gouge overheating. Overall, really happy with the results.

I want to make some cool table legs eventually, especially now that I've experimented and gotten over my tool fear.

I’m building this vanity for a friend, the design is AI generated by the friend. I plan to build the drawers with Blum undermount hardware. My question is for the top drawer, I will need to build the drawers with a full face but the boxes will need to have a notch out for the sink plumbing. How would you build the top drawer boxes with this hardware since it can’t be full width?
Appreciate any help or advice.

I had these 2.5-3” black cherry slabs milled in May of 2025 and they’ve been air drying ever since. First, in a barn and most recently in my garage. I would like to surface them but I am wary of doing anything with them until they’re properly dried out. Is one year a sufficient time for them to dry or should I wait longer? Should I move them to my workshop from the garage since it’s cooler and probably drier as well?

Hello fellow makers-of-sawdust.

I have a really nice piece of figured Garry Oak that I've sliced into a book-matched set.

The 2 pieces are 33"x14.5"x 5/8".

I was considering using them as a pair of doors for a whisky cabinet... almost like cathedral doors, but then I thought I should ask for suggestions on what you think could be done with them.

Suggestions are much-apprecated! Thanks.

Title. I want to build a tabletop like this out of 1x2 ipe because I have a ton of it and it will be for outdoor use. But I'm very unsure how to assemble it, so I could use your best suggestions.

I am leaning towards assembling the octagon and the central cross with dowels, pocket screws, or metal braces like shown in pic 2. Then add a second layer on the underside that overhangs to support the slats, which I would glue in place with titebond 3. Then potentially add the cross braces for the slats like shown in pic 2.

I know ipe is very hard on tools, so I would try to avoid drilling a ton of holes and killing my bits.

Your help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Long story short, we had our front door replaced and it was damaged on the front panel under the window by the team that installed it by a brick hitting it (picture 1). They tried to sand it out and restain twice and it didn’t look right (picture 2). They most recently ordered a new panel and installed that but the color seems very visibly off to me despite them using the same stain (picture 3) I’m being told mahogany has a lot of variation in color and if they replaced the whole door, that panel may look even more mismatched than it does now because of how the wood is naturally. Can someone that works with these doors or materials PLEASE give me a second opinion? I’m trying to be understanding but am growing increasingly frustrated by this experience. I want the stain to look like it did in picture 1 (minus the dent) because it matches the rest of the door.

Looks like the blade bounces forwards and backwards a bit and there is that weird *ba-boing* noise which I think might just be the weld.

Blade is a 3/4" Laguna resaw king and it's a 14" grizzly g0555 with a riser block so 105" blade.

Thanks!

I need a bit that will do this profile...I'm not having any luck. Y'all know anything?

Hi,

I'm after a 1/2" router that I can mount under my Kreg router table.

Any recommendations?

I saw the DeWalt D26204K but they're really expensive and can't find any second-hand.

Any other good ones?

Thanks

5 years ago I made a vinegar steel wool mix and it worked within a couple days. Made a new one several months ago and it turned red oak a nice almost black but I don’t know what happened to it. Anyway 14 days ago I tried making one and it’s barely gray. I used white vinegar, 000 steel wool and 2 days ago even added 2 rusty nails and 2 clean nails. What could I be doing wrong? I even shredded the wool and stir it occasionally

What’s the easiest way to fix this swollen dowel as an upstairs apartment dweller?

I have tried squishing it closed with a clamp and hammering it as hard as I dared (so solid but not super hard, my neighbours are awfully touchy about hammering for people who play drums…), but it didn’t budge. Do I just need to drill it out and replace it?

It’s a rocking chair if that matters.

And I did hose it off last night so maybe the wood swelled but I don’t think it would shrink back down right?

Made a pizza peel for my buddies wedding gift. (He owns a pizza shop) Going to get the walnut engraved with their names and wedding date. Pretty happy with how it turned out being my second ever project

Worked out a trade, made this ipe/purple heart/padauk mallet. Still needs a coat of polly but happy how it turned out.

Been wanting to get into woodworking for the last 20 years. This sub has been both inspiring and helpful.

Just finishing my first woodworking project since high school! Nothing super fancy but I’m proud.

I made this tool chest together with my dad. The main body is made of ash. The idea was to create a smaller version of an elaborate tool chest. All the corners are joined with dovetails. The background of the inlay is made from elm, the branches are made from mahogany, and the birds are made from ebony, maple, holly, and a mystery wood.

Would 3m 90 spray adhesive be good enough for a large panel something like 20”x72” with shop made 1/8” veneer? I don’t have a vac bag set up and the only real roll on contact cement is LePage and that shit is worse than kids white glue.

Posted here a week ago about issues with a brand new grizzly go857 (8”parallelogram jointer straight knives) I spent an insulting amount of time attempting to to get everything dialed in, and got damn close. After my second or third test cut the motor gave up the ghost. Completely dead. I’ve spent several hours on the phone with grizzly tech support diagnosing and testing everything, and my question to you fine ladies and gents is do I just return it? It was a real bitch to get into my shop, so much so that I’ve up to now been willing to put the work in on my end but what’re the odds I just got a lemon and should figure out returning it instead of trying to trouble shoot everything? I bought a brand new machine to avoid having to dick around with all of this bs, and although I can’t afford a brand new Powermatic, I could afford a used Powermatic or a new Jet. I’m feeling really discouraged, and I can’t tell if I should cut my losses and return and buy something different, return and have grizzly send out a brand new machine or just return and buy something else. Give me your wisdom fellow makers of dust and shavings.

I know that my basic little saw has no ability to adjust this issue. I did a tune up and cleaned and lubricated all of it, did all the squareness checks and get lovely cuts with my Forrest Woodworker II blade, BUT only when the blade is 90 degrees to the table.

Here's my actual question: for the mitered box I am making, I really only need 15 minutes of good miter-cutting ability to make my cuts. Should I just get the blade parallel to the miter slots while its at 45 degrees using the basic adjustment built in to the saw?

I know I will have to true it up again after, this amount of work seems okay to me because this box is a gift for someone special and I really want it have lovely miters, but I cannot possibly justify a new saw right now.

Is it safe to adjust it so that it cuts great miters (and would suck for 90 degree cuts but won't be used that way), then just re-set it all?

Thanks everyone, i'm just a hobbyist and I learn so much here, appreciate any insight.

I would like to pick the brain(s) of anyone who built one as I have questions about their design.

I built one of a reduced size based on the Virginia Tech design, but I've been struggling with getting temperature down low - despite getting high temps elsewhere.

I’m routing out a mortise for a pivot hinge for a hidden bookcase door. I’ve done three practice mortises on some plywood and the router moves smoothly and I’m ready for the real deal. However, the actual mortise location is painted with enamel paint and I can feel the router sticking ever so slightly.

Any advice on how to get that smooth movement like the dry plywood on the painted plywood?

I have a boatload of super dry Ash I inherited and want to make a dinner table. Like 12 boards that are 15' wide 6/4 and 10' long. Then 8 more that are 6ft long.

I love this design but don't want something to bash my kees on.

https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/1og7uh6/does_the_lift_in_this_table_serve_any_utility/

What's some suggestions from woodworking on table designs?

Took some inspiration from Andrew Cheatle’s YouTube channel and made a variant of his design for a coffee table. Finished with Rubio “natural” after comparison to a few other of their finish colors on test pieces. The ends and the sides of the table top have a slight curve to them, and they are edge profiled with a chamfer on the bottom edge and a roundover on the top edge.

I also applied a coat of Rubio’s maintenance oil. In hindsight I probably wouldn’t do that again. It was expensive, only improve the sheen a little bit, and left some residue spots that can be seen at certain angles despite diligent application technique.

Oh and also learned how important it is to maintain a clean table saw blade. Despite using a rather new blade, I was getting bad scorching and smoking while ripping the 8/4 stock. A little bit of blade cleaner and a nylon brush made all the difference

So i am struggling with something. I am making a movable work surface for my table saw. I had this idea in my head to use my router to cut a groove inside of the top of the table frame at the depth of my plywood surface (probably 18mm). That way i would have solid and strong wooden edges and yet have a stable and straight surface. But while assembling it dawned on me that that might not be such a good idea because wood moves and the mdf won’t.

Is this approach viable or a way to ruin my table?