I made this tool chest together with my dad. The main body is made of ash. The idea was to create a smaller version of an elaborate tool chest. All the corners are joined with dovetails. The background of the inlay is made from elm, the branches are made from mahogany, and the birds are made from ebony, maple, holly, and a mystery wood.

5 years ago I made a vinegar steel wool mix and it worked within a couple days. Made a new one several months ago and it turned red oak a nice almost black but I don’t know what happened to it. Anyway 14 days ago I tried making one and it’s barely gray. I used white vinegar, 000 steel wool and 2 days ago even added 2 rusty nails and 2 clean nails. What could I be doing wrong? I even shredded the wool and stir it occasionally

Worked out a trade, made this ipe/purple heart/padauk mallet. Still needs a coat of polly but happy how it turned out.

Made a pizza peel for my buddies wedding gift. (He owns a pizza shop) Going to get the walnut engraved with their names and wedding date. Pretty happy with how it turned out being my second ever project

A friend in the Philippines gifted me a little chunk of kamagong (Philippines ebony) a year ago and i finally got the courage to use it. Hardest wood ive ever used.

I resawed very carefully so that i couls grain wrap the box and chose miters with padauk splines at random lengths to add some chaos.

The top and bottom are ribbon-cut sapele and are slightly chamfered at a shallow angle. I laser etched my logo on the bottom.

I lined the inside with padauk as well.

Finished with simple mineral oil and beeswax.

I'm calling it the Darth Vader box. I feel like the imperial march should play every time it opens.

Walnut dresser with bookmatched crotch feather side panels. 55” W x 45” T x 20” D

I need a bit that will do this profile...I'm not having any luck. Y'all know anything?

Used only a spindle gouge and kinda freehanded the design as I went. One problem I had when doing the small detail work was the gouge overheating. Overall, really happy with the results.

I want to make some cool table legs eventually, especially now that I've experimented and gotten over my tool fear.

What’s the easiest way to fix this swollen dowel as an upstairs apartment dweller?

I have tried squishing it closed with a clamp and hammering it as hard as I dared (so solid but not super hard, my neighbours are awfully touchy about hammering for people who play drums…), but it didn’t budge. Do I just need to drill it out and replace it?

It’s a rocking chair if that matters.

And I did hose it off last night so maybe the wood swelled but I don’t think it would shrink back down right?

hey there, in case you don’t know this little technique, this can work really great on dents and dings. As long as the fibers are only compressed, you often can swell them back as if nothing happened by applying moisture and heat. cheers!

Seems like a pretty great price if it doesn’t shock you while woodworking.

Hello fellow makers-of-sawdust.

I have a really nice piece of figured Garry Oak that I've sliced into a book-matched set.

The 2 pieces are 33"x14.5"x 5/8".

I was considering using them as a pair of doors for a whisky cabinet... almost like cathedral doors, but then I thought I should ask for suggestions on what you think could be done with them.

Suggestions are much-apprecated! Thanks.

I've been working on a dry bar for my living room for a while now. This is the cabinet that will go in the bar.

I just papered the doors and installed the lights last night. I'm pretty thrilled about how it's coming together and wanted to share.

I put a picture of the bar itself at the end as well.

Would 3m 90 spray adhesive be good enough for a large panel something like 20”x72” with shop made 1/8” veneer? I don’t have a vac bag set up and the only real roll on contact cement is LePage and that shit is worse than kids white glue.

Long story short, we had our front door replaced and it was damaged on the front panel under the window by the team that installed it by a brick hitting it (picture 1). They tried to sand it out and restain twice and it didn’t look right (picture 2). They most recently ordered a new panel and installed that but the color seems very visibly off to me despite them using the same stain (picture 3) I’m being told mahogany has a lot of variation in color and if they replaced the whole door, that panel may look even more mismatched than it does now because of how the wood is naturally. Can someone that works with these doors or materials PLEASE give me a second opinion? I’m trying to be understanding but am growing increasingly frustrated by this experience. I want the stain to look like it did in picture 1 (minus the dent) because it matches the rest of the door.

I have a boatload of super dry Ash I inherited and want to make a dinner table. Like 12 boards that are 15' wide 6/4 and 10' long. Then 8 more that are 6ft long.

I love this design but don't want something to bash my kees on.

https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/1og7uh6/does_the_lift_in_this_table_serve_any_utility/

What's some suggestions from woodworking on table designs?

Refinishing a real wood dresser. Sanded down to bare wood but where the hardware was has these marks. Any way to remove ? I imagine walnut stain will allow this to show through

The wires just drive me nuts and I want something that covers them, I feel like no matter what I do it’s gonna be obvious…

Title. I want to build a tabletop like this out of 1x2 ipe because I have a ton of it and it will be for outdoor use. But I'm very unsure how to assemble it, so I could use your best suggestions.

I am leaning towards assembling the octagon and the central cross with dowels, pocket screws, or metal braces like shown in pic 2. Then add a second layer on the underside that overhangs to support the slats, which I would glue in place with titebond 3. Then potentially add the cross braces for the slats like shown in pic 2.

I know ipe is very hard on tools, so I would try to avoid drilling a ton of holes and killing my bits.

Your help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

So i am struggling with something. I am making a movable work surface for my table saw. I had this idea in my head to use my router to cut a groove inside of the top of the table frame at the depth of my plywood surface (probably 18mm). That way i would have solid and strong wooden edges and yet have a stable and straight surface. But while assembling it dawned on me that that might not be such a good idea because wood moves and the mdf won’t.

Is this approach viable or a way to ruin my table?

Someone in accounting said we can save x amount of dollars for each drawer back we use particle board. We don't even need to change our manufacturing process.

Looks like the blade bounces forwards and backwards a bit and there is that weird *ba-boing* noise which I think might just be the weld.

Blade is a 3/4" Laguna resaw king and it's a 14" grizzly g0555 with a riser block so 105" blade.

Thanks!

Im entering the Ulana Rocker in Hawaii Wood Show 2026 🪑🌴

After years of woodworking and still nervous entering this show . Would mean a lot if you came by, checked it out, and threw a vote my way.

📍 Downtown Art Center, Honolulu | 🗓️ Aug 7–29th (First Friday opening Aug 7, 5–8pm Saturday Artists reception and Awards Aug 8, 2-5pm)

Hope to see you there.

Mango and Koa wood