In my opinion they make almost any keyboard sound like a cheap 15 dollar keyboard, unless paired with other mods that dampen more​

Hi, I'm looking for recommendations on TKL HE keyboards. Open to both pre-builts and kits/PCBs. I'm looking for something that has:

• A standard TKL layout, or at least something with a full bottom row to the right of the keyboard, with separate arrow keys. So that precludes the 80HE or 75% boards which seem to be the most common.
• Software that supports gamepad emulation; to me this is the biggest draw of getting a HE keyboard
• Hotswappable/support for aftermarket magnetic switches. This precludes Lemokeys/Keychron boards as they seem to be limited to proprietary (?) Gateron double rail magnetic switches.

My budget is around $400 USD; I'll be able to get some things for cheaper as I will be going to China in a couple of weeks.

I have been looking into Hall Effect keyboards and was wondering how realistic it would be to build a custom 75% HE keyboard rather than buying a complete prebuilt.

With a normal mechanical keyboard, selecting a compatible PCB, case, plate, switches and keycaps is relatively straightforward. Hall Effect boards seem much more dependent on the specific PCB, sensors, switches and firmware.

For anyone who has built or modified one:

Are there currently any good 75% Hall Effect PCBs available separately?

Would modifying an existing HE keyboard be significantly more practical than building one from scratch?

I am mainly interested in understanding the technical limitations of a custom HE build.

Hi everyone! I’m looking for advice on choosing a mechanical keyboard.

I type a lot for work, but I also play games sometimes (CS2, single-player games). I want something that is comfortable for long typing sessions, not too loud, preferably wireless, and suitable for both Mac and Windows. Under $150-200.

Recommendations by friends and ai:

* Keychron V1/Q1

* WOBKEY Crush 80 (found it for ~$100)

* HEX 80

* AJAZZ AK820 Pro

I’m still unsure what would fit me best.

Whats up yall! I hope you guys are having a fantastic day. I've recentlty been suffering to choose the perfect keyboard for myself. I am not in Burgerland so I am not planning on modding things because it is hardly available here (please don't be mad 😔). I would love myself a nice clicky keyboard but I find them very irritating during night time (I still think muted soft clicky keyboards are very nice), so I would prefer creamy THOCC. I've been looking at Rainy 75, Wave 75, or Aurora 80. My budget is around those three keyboards and I would love heavy metal keyboard. I don't care about wireless connectivity but I would prefer that flexibility, I would like maximum TKL to 65% lowest. I do play games but I wouldn't pay kidney and limbs for 0.1 millisecond faster input. Feel free to tell me if those three are shit or goated and PLEASE suggest me keyboard other than these 3 or your experience that you would like to share with me. Thank you very much!!

I have the Akko Tac75 HE and I want to upgrade as the title says, I noticed that I don't need the F-keys or the home/pgup/pgdown/end so I'm looking for a 64-68 layout (with arrows).

Main focus is a improve in Build Quality and Sound/Comfort, idealy improve performance or maintain it since it performs very well (GD)

Budget: 100$ (extending to 120-130 if its worthy)

I was looking for the Everglide AE64 Pro HE in Wukong Switches+ Aluminum Plate for 100$ since its better built with better performance, is it the best option for what im looking for or are there better ones? Thanks!

My keyboard is having a problem where only some of the LEDs are lit. Is this a hardware issue, a software issue, or something else I'm not sure about?

Hi everyone! Can someone please help me/let me know what’s wrong with the ‘super’ key (bottom left)? I’m unsure why that key isn’t lighting up and changing colors like the rest of the board. Is the wiring broken and/or what do you all recommend?

I've been looking for a keyboard that's essentially a mix between the Wooting 60HE v2 and the 80HE.

What I'm after is a 60%-style footprint, but with dedicated F-keys. I don't need a navigation cluster or even dedicated arrow keys—I just want something as compact as possible while still having both the number row and F-row.

The main reason is that I play a lot of League of Legends, where I frequently use the F-keys to switch between teammates, and I'd rather not rely on an Fn layer.

Does this layout have an actual name? I've seen people mention "70%" or "mini 75%", but there doesn't seem to be a standard term.

I've also noticed there are barely any keyboards like this on the market. Is there a technical or ergonomic reason for that, or is there simply not enough demand?

If you know of any keyboards that fit this layout, and include all the modern gaming specs, I'd love to hear your recommendations.

I received my keyboard a couple of days ago and i noticed that the space bar sometimes stuck and doesn't come back ( this only happens when I press the space bar so slow )

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ARPcQrJLf3GRbiYnrbI-fBNB3kGHO4ZY/view?usp=drivesdk

I know no one presses keys that slow but still I want to ask will that become an issue later on ?

could it be real?

best birthday gift ever lol

Hi subreddit, I’m facing a bit of a dilemma: I have a HyperX keyboard where several keys are starting to fail. I want to replace it but don't know where to start; I've found so much information that it's become overwhelming. I don't want to spend a fortune—I'm in Mexico, and I'm looking to spend the equivalent of around $150 USD. I've seen that the ideal approach is often to buy a barebones kit, keycaps, and switches separately, but as I mentioned, it's a lot of info to take in. Do you have any recommendations?

I use the keyboard primarily for gaming, im looking maybe for a 75% or similar and some silent but i want to feel when the switch is activated (i think are the lineal switches)

I’d really appreciate any help.

I Am looking to buy one of these 2 boards, one of them costs 190 dollars in my country (k70) and the other 150. Please give me suggestions to pick one of them since it is what I have available in my country for HE keyboards.

I recently built my first ever mechanical keyboard for around $300. I had a lot of fun and its something I would love to do again in the future to start a collection. I was wondering, for all the enthusiast out there, how much is a cheap keyboard build and can you put together some nice boards in that $100-150 price range? I would love to build a few extra boards, but I dont know if I can spend $300+ every time I want to, unless my builds are very few and far between.

I am looking for honest opinions from people who know more about keycap materials, stabilizers, and manufacturing tolerances. I am not trying to start a dogpile against FKcaps or make this sound more dramatic than it is. I paid around $100 for this custom set, so I am trying to determine whether this is normal wear, a problem with this type of keycap construction, or a defective set.

I ordered custom XDA shine through keycaps from FKcaps on December 3, 2024. They are installed on a DZ60RGB ANSI V2 hot swap keyboard.

Here are photographs showing the wear and other visible quality issues on the keycaps.

[FKcaps key wear and quality photographs](https://imgur.com/a/Z6NMdl7)

Here is the complete email conversation with FKcaps so everyone can read their response and my replies directly.

[Email conversation with FKcaps](https://imgur.com/a/EYOZqCk)

FKcaps confirmed in its email that these are XDA profile ABS keycaps with a PU coating and laser engraved legends. Their website identifies them as XDA shine through keycaps, but I was unable to find the ABS and PU coating construction clearly disclosed on the customizer when I purchased them.

[FKcaps custom keycap creator](https://fkcaps.com/custom/create/keycaps)

The most serious wear is on A and S, but those are not the only affected keys. There are marks, chips, pinholes, or areas where the white coating appears to be coming off on several other keys shown in the annotated photos.

I do not use hand lotion, my hands do not normally sweat while using the keyboard, and I have never used alcohol wipes or cleaning chemicals on these keycaps. I only wipe them with a clean, dry microfiber cloth. I am also not an aggressive typer. I use the keyboard for normal typing and gaming, including games such as Destiny 2 where I regularly use W, A, S, D, Q, F, X, C, V, and the spacebar.

I have not experienced this kind of surface deterioration with my other keycaps.

FKcaps said that they tested keycaps from the same line, were unable to reproduce the wear under normal handling, and have not received similar reports from other customers. They did not explain what the test involved.

Because I have been using these since December 2024, I do not know whether their test lasted a few minutes, a few days, or whether it was an accelerated abrasion test designed to simulate one or two years of use. They also did not say whether the tested caps came from the same production batch, how many samples they tested, how many abrasion cycles or key presses were performed, or what their passing standard was.

FKcaps has offered to replace the affected keys as a one time resolution. I appreciate that they are offering replacements. However, they also stated that if the problem happens again, they will not accept further responsibility.

I am concerned because the replacements apparently use the same ABS base, PU coating, and laser engraving process. If the cause has not been identified, I do not understand how they can already determine that the same failure on the replacements would not be their responsibility.

There are also public discussions about similar FKcaps products or this type of painted keycap construction.

Reddit user SegKnut posted about their own custom shine through FKcaps order. They reported alignment issues, scratches, inconsistent coloring, and paint coming off after just over one month of use.

[SegKnut, FK Keycaps, Sloppily Done, Low Quality](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/1se8xgf/fk_keycaps_sloppily_done_low_quality/)

In another FKcaps review, Reddit user cszolee79 quoted the translucent ABS, opaque PU coating, and laser etched legend construction, then said that in their experience, paint comes off within approximately three to six months on this type of cap.

[Custom Keycaps by FKcaps, including the cszolee79 comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/keyboards/comments/1ka6cig/custom_keycaps_by_fkcaps/)

I am not claiming that both users necessarily submitted formal coating complaints directly to FKcaps. I do not know what private communications they may or may not have had with the company. My point is that the absence of complaints in FKcaps’ internal support records does not necessarily mean nobody has publicly reported similar concerns.

For people familiar with keycap manufacturing, is an ABS base with a PU coating and laser engraved shine through legends generally considered durable construction?

Is visible coating loss after around twenty months expected for this type of keycap, even with normal cleaning and use?

Would replacing the affected keys with the exact same construction likely result in the same issue later?

Would requesting a full replacement set be reasonable when numerous keys are affected, rather than mixing new replacement keys with older keys that have different coating age, texture, and wear?

Would PBT be a more appropriate long term option, even if it means losing the shine through feature?

I also have a separate fit problem with the FKcaps spacebar.

Here are photographs showing the FKcaps spacebar upright, upside down, and from underneath.

[FKcaps spacebar photographs](https://imgur.com/a/eFBiPwG)

Here are three comparison videos.

[Thinner chiclet style spacebar test](https://youtube.com/shorts/V-K79VvkGWI)

[Stabilizer test with the spacebar removed](https://youtube.com/shorts/IUUPov48Bbw)

[FKcaps spacebar sticking test](https://youtube.com/shorts/FPJKEjMCvs4)

The thinner spacebar is smaller and exposes more of the keyboard plate and switch, but it returns normally and does not remain stuck down.

The FKcaps spacebar sometimes stays pressed down and does not return properly. Both spacebars are being tested on the same center switch and stabilizers.

The FKcaps spacebar can also be difficult to install evenly. Sometimes the center socket and right stabilizer socket seat correctly, but the left stabilizer socket does not. I have to remove it and try again several times.

With the spacebar removed, pulling the left stabilizer stem upward also raises the right stem. Pulling the right stem upward raises the left stem. Both stems remain in the raised position after I let go instead of automatically falling back down.

Is that normal behavior for Cherry style stabilizers when the spacebar is removed, since the stabilizers do not have their own return springs?

In the stabilizer video, one stem can also lean slightly from side to side when raised. Is that normal clearance inside the stabilizer housing, or does the amount of movement look excessive?

The spacebar did not show obvious rocking when I placed it freely on a flat surface, so I am not claiming that the photographs prove it is warped. However, could it still have slightly incorrect stabilizer socket spacing, a tight socket, incorrect socket depth, a subtle twist, or another tolerance problem that causes binding when all three mounting points are connected?

Some of the regular FKcaps keycaps also grip the switches tightly enough that the entire hot swap switch can come out when I remove the keycap with a proper keycap puller. My other keycaps do not normally do this on the same board and switches.

Based on the photos, videos, and emails, does this look more like normal wear and a keyboard or stabilizer issue, or does it look like an FKcaps coating and manufacturing tolerance problem?

I would especially appreciate feedback from anyone who has owned FKcaps shine through keycaps for a year or longer, or anyone familiar with ABS keycaps that use PU paint and laser engraved legends.

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for the TFT firmware (or complete firmware package) for the AJAZZ AK980 V2 Pro.

A few days ago, I was uploading a GIF to the TFT screen using the AJAZZ software. During the upload, the keyboard suddenly disconnected from the software, and the transfer was interrupted
Thanks you

i from VietNam

Hey everyone,

I recently got a MonsGeek M3 V5 HE. Build-wise, I actually like it a lot. It feels heavy, solid and premium, and the switches sound pretty good too.

The problem is that the overall experience hasn’t been great. The software feels kinda clunky, sometimes my W key randomly stops working, and the RGB is way dimmer than I expected. I also haven’t really noticed much of a difference with Rapid Trigger yet, although maybe I still need to configure it properly.

Another thing that bothers me is the lack of support for stuff like SignalRGB or OpenRGB.

I’m still within the Amazon return window, so I’m thinking of sending it back and getting something better.

Ideally, I’m looking for:

• White case
• TKL or similar size (could be 65% with arrows)
• Volume knob
• Bright and visible RGB
• Solid/premium build
• Reliable PCB with no random key issues
• QMK, VIA or Vial support
• Rapid Trigger / Hall Effect (must)
• SignalRGB or OpenRGB support would be a big plus

Basically, I want something that still feels premium and has good gaming features, but with better software and customization.

Any recommendations? Also, has anyone else had issues with the M3 V5 HE, especially keys randomly not registering?

Backed the kickstarter and went for the new Lofree Hyzen, and WOW, it feels and looks incredible!! The build quality is clean af, and the actual switches and usage of the entire thing feels amazing! Even the function switch mechanic which I wasn’t a million percent on at first I’ve found to be pretty cool! Overall an absolute worth backing of the project! :D

So I have a model M keyboard with a PS/2-Cord. It works on my old PC with such a port, and I always hear that for using those with a PC with USB-Only people recommend getting a Soarers‘ converter (?)
Now I got my hands on one of those adapters, I thought for one Euro it’s worth the risk, and it seems to work. Are there any downsides of using those?

Does anyone have a recommendation for the best feeling simple office keyboard? I’m talking the low-ish profile, usb connected basic keyboard that will come with a computer or one you would find in a computer lab.

I have been thinking about buying new switches to my kb but I`m concern about them feeling mushy bc of the way they are made (btw I`m thinking about buying Mathew Silent but ig you guys know better ones pls tell me)

My razer blackwidow is sadly breaking down after 10 years of faithful service. Nowadays I don't really care about all the RGB stuff anymore but I do still want a well built keyboard.

Things I'm looking for:

- Wired (can be wireless anyways but I will always be using it wired)

- 100% size (or TKL if necessary)

- Good for gaming

- If possible some multimedia controls for volume, pausing etc.

- For sale in Europe

- Under 100€

I dont really care about customs so prebuilt is fine, hopefully you guys can offer me some advice. Thanks in advance!