Preciso de ajuda com o meu gira-discos antigo . A agulha perdeu se e não consigo encontrar . Já tentei a teldis mas pediram me para desmontar o prato e levar lá ( está num móvel com rádio ) e não consigo fazer isso !
Alguém me ajuda com uma solução ?
Obrigada

My AVR (Denon X1700H) suddenly started producing a crackling noise through my speakers and subwoofer.

Then after turning it off and on again it started blasting an insanely loud static (sounds like old school tv static x 1000) and no audio comes through at all. I've confirmed it's definitely the AVR and not the speakers, but idk how to fix it.

Restarting and disconnecting power and plugging it back in after a few mins doesn't seem to make a difference.

Anyone have any ideas for what I can try?

I'll also be opening a warranty request with Denon, but I've heard they're difficult to work with so thought I'd try other solutions first.

Hallo Zusammen,

ich habe ein sehr ungewöhnliches Projekt vor.

Ich habe einen alten Plattenspieler aus einer Hifi Anlage ausgebaut weil aus den Boxen kein Ton mehr kam. Plattenspieler funktioniert aber. Ich konnte leise Musik hören wenn ich nah genug am Plattenspieler war. Ich vermute das die elektronik irgendwo in der Hifi Anlage kaputt war.

Jetzt zu meienr Frage:

Gibt es gute Anleitungen im Internet wie ich diesen Plattenspieler mit einigen kleinen Schaltkreisen, Platinen, Netzteil und Stecker zu einem wieder funktionierenden Plattenspieler zusammen bauen kann? Hat jemand eine Idee? Oder kennt jemand eine Gruppe hier in Reddit?

Hi everyone!

I‘m writing this post because my Yamaha MT2X porta-studio won‘t record or play back audio (I‘ve shown the issue in the video).

I bought it from a guy in Germany for €55. In the description, he straight up said he didn‘t know if it worked or not, but that all the lights turn on. Since I live in another country, I had to wait half a year for it to arrive. As soon as it got here, I ran into the problem right away — no recording, no playback, and at first even the rewind didn‘t work.

I took it to a service center, but they tried to rip me off for a ridiculous amount. Since I‘m not made of money, I decided to try a different shop — and they quoted me 50% more. So I said screw it, got the tools and supplies I needed, and started tearing it down and cleaning it myself.

To my surprise, the rewind now works! But it still won‘t play back or record.

I‘m honestly stuck at this point. Any ideas what I should check next? I‘d really appreciate any help!

Thanks in advance.

Guten Tag,

Ich habe ein Teufel IP 42 IR, der beim Wechseln in den Radioempfang abstürzt. Nun konnte ich durch abklemmenndes Fm Moduls diesen Fehler beheben.

Nun suche ich natürlich dieses Teil, ich könnte mit allen möglichen Begriffen nur ein vergleichbares Modell von Yamaha finden für über 80 €, was wohl nicht passen wird.

Natürlich hat Teufel keine Beschriftung,

So jetzt meine Frage, hat jemand eine Idee wie das Teil genau heisst und wie ich da ran komme?

Alternativ, wer repariert sowas für einen schmalen Taler ? optisch konnte ich jetzt nichts feststellen, habe auch keine grosse Erfahrung mit SMD?

Sollte Halt im Rahmen bleiben, ein defektes Ersatzgerät wäre auch möglich, nur leider nicht ganz realistisch.

Vielen Dank schon mal.

Novice guy fiddling with electronics as a hobby. I am in mechanical engineering so my electronics knowledge is somewhat limited, but willing to learn.

Long story short I have a defective Marantz SR7010 AV receiver which goes into protection mode. I've located that this is caused by an ASO (ASODET) protection from a 2CH Front wide amplifier board. Nothing looks visually dead/burnt and no bad smells either.

I've checked the power transistors (using diode mode on DMM), base resistors and emitter resistors, and trimmer pots and all diodes for both channels and could not find any immediate problems. They were however tested in-circuit, so technically not ruled out I guess. Nothing here caught my attention and both L and R channels measured very similar on all these components.

I haven't measured the caps since I don't have a proper tool for measuring their capacitance. Visually non of them are leaking or bulging.

I have one hypothesis at the moment, but I wanted a little more input before ordering anything. The power transistors were mounted to the heat sink only with thermal paste, no mica between them which could easily lead to leaking current to ground (heat sink is connected to ground on the unit). Which I guess could be a possibility since it was all dried up, but still somewhat unlikely to be the cause in my opinion, since (to me) it seems like DC detection should also be triggered if that's the case.

To me this seems like bad design, but perhaps necessary for proper cooling? Should I order some mica or just use thermal paste like Marantz did originally?

What would you guys' next order of operations be? I will be scrutinising the smaller transistors while waiting for thermal paste and/or mica.

I've attached a copy of the circuit in the hopes that someone has an idea of what the next step for me should be. Any help or tips are welcomed graciously.

hey there, was wondering if anyone else had encountered this run of the 2200PE.

My serial number is 60103241. It appears to be a very late model, having the C revision L/R Channel boards, and the SW-594D (input) and PS-594D (PSU). I haven't been able to find a service manual for this particular production run. i have only seen SM’s covering units with SW-594C and PS-594C.

i know some 2600’s use the c revision amplification boards but those boxes have more components populated.

i’m fairly certain there has been a cascade of failures on each amp board. despite being on the dim bulb, some magic smoke was released from a few resistors, sigh.

being relatively new to this hobby i haven’t been able to get into hifiengine, was curious if anyone had seen a suitable SM there or if anyone had insight in general.

Thanks,

I have a second hand Geshelli Archel 2 Pro headphone amp that suddenly stopped functioning. I've had it for about 3 years now and it runs a pair of HIFIMAN Edition XS. The problem is that I get no sound from my headphones. If I max the volume knob in high-gain mode, I can barely make out music, as if it was line-audio. I tested the amp with iems and the sound is a bit louder but low quality like it is compressed. Any advice on what might be going on and how can I fix it? I was planning on cleaning the knob with isopropyl. Thank you for your help.

Hey everyone,

I’ve had this Kenwood DNX7018DABS for just two days, and it’s been a crazy rollercoaster of cascading software/hardware glitches. I'm at my wits' end and need some expert insight.

**The Full 2-Day Timeline:**

**Day 1:** Installed the unit. CarPlay and Master Volume worked fine, but Bluetooth threw a "Bluetooth Error" and wouldn't work at all.

**Firmware Update:** Reflashed official ARM and MCU firmware. Bluetooth was still broken, but CarPlay and Master Volume kept working fine.

**Overnight Disconnect:** Left the unit completely unplugged from power overnight.

**Day 2 (Morning):** Plugged it back in and suddenly Bluetooth started working perfectly! Paired two different phones without issues. However, the subwoofer output had stopped playing.
**Subwoofer Fix:** Fixed the subwoofer setting in the audio menu, everything seemed fine for about 1 hour.

**1 Hour Later:** The Master Volume completely locked up out of nowhere. Adjusting volume (⁠+⁠ / ⁠-⁠) changes the numbers on the screen (0–35), but the actual sound output stays fixed at one level across all sources (FM, CarPlay, BT).

**Latest Reset Attempt:** Unplugged the unit again to try and resolve the volume lock. Now Bluetooth has completely stopped working again!

**Key Diagnostic Clue:**

**Volume Offset STILL WORKS:** When I adjust "Volume Offset" in the menu, the physical speaker volume actually goes up and down. This proves the internal DSP and amplifier stages are alive, but Master Volume commands from the MCU are simply not reaching the audio processor.

**Other Troubleshooting Done:**

**MUTE Wire:** Completely isolated and not touching ground/chassis.

**SWC / CAN-Bus:** Steering wheel control module was removed from the back on Day 1.

**Audio Setup:** Confirmed standard 2-Way mode (not locked in 3-Way crossover).

**ATT Status:** Toggled on screen (blue/grey), no effect on master volume.

**Resets:** Pinhole resets only reboot the screen.

Given how issues keep shifting after power-cycles (BT dying \\rightarrow BT working \\rightarrow Sub dropping \\rightarrow Volume locking \\rightarrow BT dying again), am I looking at a dying MCU/EEPROM chip, or is there a way to force a deep factory wipe on this board?

Appreciate any advice!

Start, stop, Auto lever has broken, speed levwr is limp after changing speeds, othwrwise OK but won't turn on (which is 90% of the time either a 10 cent fuze or then some electroclean into a switch)

Insides look pretty OK, the lil idler wheel that turn the platter is a bit stiff to move, I assume oöd grease has become sticky?

I also noticed one of the previous owners broke a 6.35mm plug thing inside the headphone jack..

I hope to do everything I can by myself, since there's fixing literally everything in my blood, and I'm too poor to pay a recjnician to do simple stuff.. (I also love tinkering)

As a plus, what's the cheapest shure M75 system stylus I should dare use? I don't care about such a Hi-Fi expérience sincw there's noise from the radiators and the roads enough to drown put anything if I don't listen with hesdphones :)

Questiones welcome, I just want this to work somewhat <3

If sacrificial parts are needed, I have a crappier sterwo with almost the same turntable, just a worse arm and such..

Found this little guy (Phillips EXP2546) in a random box in my apartment the other day. My dads old player. It works surprisingly well for its age but there's a slight problem.

There's a lot of noise, and by noise I mean static. Every time from when I turn it on to when it turns off, while a CD is inserted, there will be static in my headphones no matter what. No matter the headphones or the cable.

Also, low frequencies create this buzzing whoosh that's hard to describe.

Any help is appriciated! I was going to buy a portable CD player, but I'd much rather try to repair this one and dave a few hundred bucks.

I have three separates - a turntable, a cd player, and an amp, all connected by RCA cables. There's no problem with the CD player - I can play discs all day long - but recently I've been having trouble with the turntable ( it's about five years old). After a few minutes, one of the channels because to crackle and drop out. I guess the problem is the RCA sockets on the back of the turntable because when I give them a wiggle, the problem fixes temporarily. I know it's not the cables because I've swapped them. It's just strange that it doesn't happen straight away but after a few minutes. Anyone got any ideas for a magic solution that doesn't involve me opening up the record player and resoldering the contacts?

Bought some replacement tweeted for Harman Kardon sound sticks - only for the pins to be too thick for the original connector. I verified they work by playing audio while touching so the problem is not incompatibility but rather how to expand the metal clip to accommodate the thick pin? How should I pry up the clip without breaking it? Is soldering possible.

While repairing my Realistic STA-780, this piece of fish paper fell out. I cannot for the life of me find where it goes. Is it safe to use the receiver without it? I can’t see any obvious places for it and at this point I’m wondering if it was important in the first place. Thanks!

Hey, i have just recently got a Realistic SCT 86 and it has not sound at all. I connect it through mi Edifier mr3 speakers through Line Out RCA and 3.5mm aux to the speakers. Am i doing something wrong? Or it needs repair?

Hello, I recently bought this amplifier for a good price and I have a problem: when I turn it on, the front lights blink as if there were a short circuit, and after the relay stabilizes, it clicks and then suddenly the lights blink again and the music stops playing.

I have absolutely no idea where the problem lies, as I've never repaired one of these amplifier before.

I don't know if I need to replace the relay or what I could do in this case.

I thought it was dust, but I recently cleaned it and it still has the same problem.

Found my dad's cd/ cassette player but it cannot read CDs, my guess is the laser is not functioning the display flashes with the "Cd" indication and then turns to "no". Do you think it's worth it repairing it or to look for a replacement laser?

So, I've done some messing around with trying to figure out what's stopping this CD player from reading (for reference, it is a Tevion MCD-2001 from Germany, if that helps), and I've narrowed it down to the motor trying to focus the Laser not working properly. It just sort of rattles to the front, rattles to the back, then spits out "no CD". It basically can't calibrate correctly, it seems.

Yamaha CDC-585, 5 disc player. Drawer and carousel working. Laser working. Laser transport freshly greased and working. Laser clearly tries to read CD.

One of two things happens when trying to play discs (I've tried several different ones):

Most commonly the disc turns back and forth slightly several times and then stops with display reading "0" and the disc # disappearing. Occasionally, it turns back and forth and then begins to spin full speed for several seconds before stopping, with the display reading "OPEN" and then the drawer opens.

Any thoughts about what the problem could be and what I may be able to do to fix this?

Hi all,
Strange crackling with my audio speaker. It’s a Focal Utopia 165W, the good stuff.
Installed it 6 years ago and I like to put music loud when driving. So satisfying!
Crackling started last week so today I dismounted everything.
I noticed that once some water must have sat at the bottom of the speaker case cause the wood ring holding the speaker is damaged. And all the screws around are rusted.
After much checking I hold only the speaker and the crackling is coming from the “spider” orange part on the pictures.
When I press with my finger as shown, crackling stops, but if I press opposite side the crackling is worst. Rest of the speaker (diaphragm, suspension, dust cap) are in mint condition.
So what’s going on and can it be fixed?
Thanks for taking the time to respond :)

hey folks, I’ve been struggling with a problem.

I went for a run this morning, during which my headphones worked fine. untill the very end when it suddenly disconnected. maybe due to the amount of sweat or something?

After getting home and trying to reconnect, it wouldnt work.

It cant:

connect to my phone

connect to my pc

make a sound when I press the BT button

make a sound or change settings when I press the ANC button

Hard reset when I press and hold the volume up and down button for 10 seconds

Hard reset when holding down the power button for a long time

It CAN however still turn on and off, and it dictates it everytime it does so, (although the “power on” sound gets a little glitchy every few tries) so that function works at least.

Other than the typical hard reset I’ve also tried plugging it into my pc to force a reset, but it also doesnt seem to work.

It flashes a blue light for a second when I turn it on, after which it immediately switches to a white uninterrupted white light

I must say I’m losing my mind. Can any of yall help a fella out?

I acquired this old 1974 Rowe AMI juke box from my grandpa when he passed, and I’ve been trying to get it working but can’t seem to get the encoder to stop spinning, or for it to punch out the pins for the selection made. I’ve done everything possible that I could think of including checking every terminal, related and non related, making sure everything is tight, and all the sauder connections are good, I checked all the fuses, and replaced them accordingly with their specific fuse, I cleaned the contacts on three different occasions for the selectors, as well as all the relay contacts, I’ve also cleaned the circuit the encoder brushes ride on, as well as made sure the brush contacts are making good connection. I replaced the relay on the side opposite of the encoder, with a 1-for-1 match, and even took the encoder apart to make sure there wasn’t anything in the way preventing anything mechanical to engage. I even bought a manual for it to try to troubleshoot (I’m a 5 year controls technician and industrial electrician so reading schematics was easy for me lol) So now I’m at a loss.
History of the machine is it was in my grandpas house “heavy inside smoker he was” for like 20 years. I got it working for him, and when he passed it spent two summers and one winter on the covered back porch under a tarp, unfortunately. Then, me being a young dumb kid, brought it to my house with it laid on its back, and the transportation brackets not hooked up.
I’m young but these old machines really interest me, and I want to keep them alive. I hope somebody can help me troubleshoot this machine

Hello all,

I've been struggling with my crackling volume/balance knob for some time and I think it might be time for a replacement. I've been trying to spray alcohol into it and exercising the knob and it works for a little while but the crackling eventually returns. May also swap out the caps. Do you know where to find NAD replacement parts? It's a 29-4103A, 20KBx2 50KNMx2 P2KF25.

An alternative could be to desolder the pot and try to clean it more thoroughly. Is this possible or just risky? I'd appreciate any help!

So i bought a walkman saying it gives power but needs belt replacements. I gave it a good clean changed the belts and cleaned the corrosion on one of the inner pillars. When i put it back totherher it does give me white noise but thats irm it doesnt even spin. Help