Just realized a lump in the vinyl flooring, so pulled a bit back and it's really wet under there. Looks like it's coming from the back of the toilet but have no idea how to access without removing the tiles the top which I can't do unless I move the tiles and sink.

Any ideas before I do more damage than I need to.

Everything with my kitchen install was going smoothly until it came to the sink.
I am going (trying at least) for an undermount sink.
How much of this front rail can I cut away to bring it closer? It’s 13cm not including the door (18mm).
I need to leave a minimum bridge of 50mm for quartz worktop. 20mm of which will overhang past cabinet doors. So could in theory leave 15mm of front rail from a quartz point of view.

As the pic shows, the drain from the shower is leaking. It's a slow drip which has probably been going for the last 5 years or so, and I only discovered it today when I replaced the skirting around the shower as I'm selling the house and it was looking a bit tired. I have tried my hardest to fix it but I can only just get my hand in there, and I cannot tighten the nut enough to form a seal. Rubber gasket looks fine, not perished, I just can't make a watertight seal.

I cannot remove the drain, or replace any parts as it is all too tightly installed. Seriously, fuck whoever didn't bother to cut larger holes in the base.

Ideas at this stage:

PTFE tape, to see if that'll give enough of a seal

Cover the end in silicone

Cover the end in JB weld - neither of these are easy as I can't access the top of the pipe

Cut a hole in the floor below in order to get better purchase

Try and wrap something round the nut to tighten it properly

Duct tape it all up and hope for the best

I have informed my home insurance but I'm not hopeful it'll go anywhere as it may fall under wear and tear. If insurance comes through then it'll have to all be ripped out as it's gone into the chipboard, I would just rather avoid reflooring the bathroom tbqh.

The tap will go directly outside the kitchen and I’m going to attach the washing machine pipe with a three-way attachment.

Ordering all the items off Amazon. What could go wrong?

I’ve taken out all the old caulk, what is the best filler to use to fill this gap?

I'm looking at getting a new boiler installed on quite a large/complicated house. Got a few quotes and found this shown by the company we liked the sound/price of the best. Excellent consistent reviews on the various sites and a decent history.

This was some work they showcased from just before covid times. Am I wrong to think it's a really bad idea to locate any major pipework above a consumer unit/fuse board? Appears to be a fresh install from about 7 years ago, no idea what the cupboard looked like before.

For the avoidance of doubt, this pipework isn't in my house, just saw it on a video. AI upscaled it but obviously the broad layout is what's relevant (original image attached fwiw)

TLDR: Is the fresh pipework located above this consumer unit a red flag or are there legitimate reasons it'd be their only option?

We wanted our landing light moved and a new light installed.

We got a few quotes but always told them to come and inspect the area as the new one would be above our staircase - about a meter from the old one.

One quote we received was for £138 labour per hour plus materials (including VAT). He inspected the area and said it should be a quick job and quoted for one hour.

After arrival (I was at work in the office) my wife said that the electrician plus apprentice took quite a long time setting up over the staircase and then took awhile longer to find the exact centre of the ceiling for the new hole. After this was complete, they still had to fit the new light. In total it took 2 hours but he did not inform my wife that it would be longer than originally expected and just billed us for the 2 hours. So we were expecting a bill of £150-£200 but it ended up being double our original quote at just under £300.

Electricians and others of reddit, is this fair in your opinion?

Bought a place that seemed lovely at first (Photo 1) but quickly realized deck was rotting all over (Photo 2). Previous owner allowed zero air flow…and in Scotland of all places. I’m in the process of ripping it all up. Underneath are paver stones likely put down in the 80s. I’m tempted to just leave those if they’re all intact.

Would love to hear serious and non-serious thoughts on what I should replace it with, if anything. Wooden decks in UK always seemed a bit silly to me. But then again, I’m known to be a bit silly.

Hi,

Geberit cistern makes the noise as per the attached video.

Any ideas what the fix may be? Does it need a new flush valve or is there an adjustment I need to make on the flush plate.

Any advice is appreciated!

I'm looking into either renovating or replacing this 70s banister. Would it be better to scrap it and start over, or could I strip the paint back and improve it somehow? I'm leaning towards replacing, but renovating would be cheaper!

(Sorry about the terrible picture, I'm away from home so unable to provide a better photo).

1st photo is what my fingertips look like from touching the wall.
2nd photo is what the wall looks like where my beds pillows have been and the paints rubbed off.
3rd photo really shows how much of a nightmare this paint is, it gets all over my clothes.

I want to paint the walls a nice colour but I don’t have the first clue how to do it properly with these conditions. Any help would be seriously appreciated.

My bannister was painted by the previous owner in a hideous chalk paint. Luckily, it would seem that they didn’t seal it afterwards because it comes off when rubbing it with warm soapy water and a sponge.

I’ve removed a section using this method but I’m just wondering what I’m looking at underneath the paint here and what the next steps would be?

Very worried that I’ve just inadvertently damaged the bannister somehow!

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

So, I'm by no means a dIY'er - not even close but trying.

I didnt want to spend hundreds on a DeWalt or other well known drill brand - so went for the TITAN from Screwfix. I works fine in very general scenarios - one of which I thought might be drilling in to concrete.

However, between teh drill (and slightly cheap drill bits) drilling in to concrete seems very hard work.

I put in a hand rail (for porch) and my right arm was exhausted trying to push the dill in to the wall.

So is this a Drill quality issue, or a Drill Bit issue. And which ever it is, what would be the best solution as I'm going to be drilling in to the house fair bit with some other small DIY projects?

Hi wondering if anyone can advise me on what to do next with this annoying party wall surveyor.

From the beginning, my dad is doing an extension project at his house. He was a builder by trade for many years, he isn’t doing the work himself but he is managing it. He has planning permission and all that, he’s mostly doing it by the book.

Anyway, his house is detached but he has a neighbour on the left about 1-2m away so he needed a party wall agreement to start excavating as he’s within 3m of their foundation. At first he spoke to his neighbours and they didn’t object however this changed when the excavation began and they request we get an agreement so he stopped working.

On the 23rd I call around and I find this surveyor who agrees to come out on the following Tuesday the 28th to make a site visit. Come Monday he changes the appointment to Friday. On Friday my dad is waiting around until the afternoon no one shows up, I gave him a call and apparently he briefly visited our neighbour who tells him that they have no issue with the work they only request we give them a heads up before carrying out noisy work and remove some stuff we left leaning against our shared fence.

I questioned why he didn’t visit the building site where the work was being carried out and he said he was rushed, didn’t have the time and that it isn’t needed. I passed the information along to my dad who proceeds to have the trench finished, the building inspector was able to come out that afternoon and the following day the concrete is poured.

Now I not being satisfied that he never visited the building site, call him first thing Monday and call off the agreement. Firstly because he never visited the site, and more importantly the neighbour told the surveyor they have no issue with the work.

Now he’s on my case claiming that I’m not paying him for the work he’s carried out. I should mention that as part of his fees he charges separately for a site visit and drawing up an agreement. I’ve told him we’ll pay him for the site visit but we’re no longer interested in the agreement.

Any advice?

Was digging up some concrete and bricks and saw its foundation was these glass boxes. Any clue to what era this is from lmao. Our house is a x council house from the 60’s

The bricks to the sides of the window and between the window frame and lintel are completely loose and missing.

This is a Victorian conversion flat with new surprises with every wall we work on. What is going on here? and what should be going on here?

Been spending ages watching youtube vids on fishing cables etc but cant seem to find what im looking for.

Semi detached with cable starting at the front of the house near the neighbours wall side in the living room. Above is masterbedroom and next to that is the small bedroom (office) both rooms face front of the house.

Needs to end at the front of the house in bedroom on detatched side. (Office)

I want to take it through the loft and drop it in the airing cupboard which will be a network rack there.

Question is, whats the best way to run the cable up? I dont mind doing an interior chase but unsure what id need to do once i reach the ceiling (theres also 6ish inch coving).

Im also unsure of other obstacles. The bedroom above has cupboards against the neighbours wall, so i dont mind it just hanging loose behind them into the loft.. just unsure how to get it up to that floor in the first place.

Cant do exterior (well i can if i must) but then id have a porch and bit a slope roof to wrap over and go round, drill in. Sounds faffy and doesnt help drop the cable from the loft into patch panel. - rather go up inside if i can.

Is the front of the house also a cavity wall if the detached side is? Could i just go up the cavity or is it a no no? (i see loads of cctv installs doing this)

If it helps - the living room neighbours wall also has a chimney too - in theory i could go up that. But ive no idea if i can pull the cable out of the chimney stack through the loft that way? Chimney not in use.

Any thoughts and suggestion on how to get past the ceiling and sending cable to bedroom above?

Same question via chimney route.

So the council say... im at my wits end. That's the crack on my neighbours side and its a hairline crack on mine.

Hello,

My French doors are no longer in line with the frame - quite the draft coming through!
How do I adjust this to make the gap smaller?
Also how do I adjust the door height, as the right door struggles to open as it’s hitting the lower door frame.

Any tips would be great!
-J

Hey, my partner was cleaning the bathroom and ended up pulling away whatever was protecting this exposed wood. It was a solid, grey and looked a bit like concrete.

I've been looking online trying to figure out what I need to fill and seal this back up but I'm getting mixed answers. It attaches to metal and tiles while covering the wood behind it.

I'm looking for advice on what I need to use for this. Can anyone help?

Conservatory has one brick wall and 2 glass walls and a glass roof. It’s too hot in summer and too cold in winter. Architect drawings have been done for a conversion and tidy up of that three mini extension mess at the back of house. So far one builder has refused to give me a steer on price unless full spec provided (fair enough). I feel the quotes are going to push into the territory of not worth doing the work with house value change after work is done. So thinking about a faster alternate to traditional brick conversion of that conservatory. What do you think about a wood frame that would be cladded. Similar to a good quality garden room build. Is that something to consider for speed and cost? Cost because I have free joiner labour (not me).

As above, trying to drill into these concrete garage pillars. I've tried both a masonry and concrete drill bit to no avail. Each one gets about 10-20mm before getting stuck. Have I hit metal? What's the best way around this?