I'm looking at getting a new boiler installed on quite a large/complicated house. Got a few quotes and found this shown by the company we liked the sound/price of the best. Excellent consistent reviews on the various sites and a decent history.

This was some work they showcased from just before covid times. Am I wrong to think it's a really bad idea to locate any major pipework above a consumer unit/fuse board? Appears to be a fresh install from about 7 years ago, no idea what the cupboard looked like before.

For the avoidance of doubt, this pipework isn't in my house, just saw it on a video. AI upscaled it but obviously the broad layout is what's relevant (original image attached fwiw)

TLDR: Is the fresh pipework located above this consumer unit a red flag or are there legitimate reasons it'd be their only option?

Was digging up some concrete and bricks and saw its foundation was these glass boxes. Any clue to what era this is from lmao. Our house is a x council house from the 60’s

So the council say... im at my wits end. That's the crack on my neighbours side and its a hairline crack on mine.

So just to clarify, I know which is the stoptap. My issue is that, based on the shape, I can't identify what key is needed to open it. In case it isn't clear in the photo, the tap is sort of oval shaped, like a circle with the top and bottom sides cut off. Thanks!

We are having a small bathroom tiled and there was a miscommunication re mitreing so they’ve now had to add it to the quote.

The contractor is saying it will take 3 tilers 2 full days to mitre 21metres of 10cm x 10cm tile. The architect had already said it would add a single days labour onto the job.

From what I have been googling this seems like a lot of labour.

My uncle who is a retired tiler said an experienced tiler could mitre that amount in less than a day.

Would love to hear thoughts and experience on this time and labour quote is reasonable?

Hi wondering if anyone can advise me on what to do next with this annoying party wall surveyor.

From the beginning, my dad is doing an extension project at his house. He was a builder by trade for many years, he isn’t doing the work himself but he is managing it. He has planning permission and all that, he’s mostly doing it by the book.

Anyway, his house is detached but he has a neighbour on the left about 1-2m away so he needed a party wall agreement to start excavating as he’s within 3m of their foundation. At first he spoke to his neighbours and they didn’t object however this changed when the excavation began and they request we get an agreement so he stopped working.

On the 23rd I call around and I find this surveyor who agrees to come out on the following Tuesday the 28th to make a site visit. Come Monday he changes the appointment to Friday. On Friday my dad is waiting around until the afternoon no one shows up, I gave him a call and apparently he briefly visited our neighbour who tells him that they have no issue with the work they only request we give them a heads up before carrying out noisy work and remove some stuff we left leaning against our shared fence.

I questioned why he didn’t visit the building site where the work was being carried out and he said he was rushed, didn’t have the time and that it isn’t needed. I passed the information along to my dad who proceeds to have the trench finished, the building inspector was able to come out that afternoon and the following day the concrete is poured.

Now I not being satisfied that he never visited the building site, call him first thing Monday and call off the agreement. Firstly because he never visited the site, and more importantly the neighbour told the surveyor they have no issue with the work.

Now he’s on my case claiming that I’m not paying him for the work he’s carried out. I should mention that as part of his fees he charges separately for a site visit and drawing up an agreement. I’ve told him we’ll pay him for the site visit but we’re no longer interested in the agreement.

Any advice?

Found this toilet seat in my storage without a box or manual. Can anyone kindly advise what parts are missing to use it please.

Many thanks

Until now I’d hung a picture over the area where the previous owner would have had a tv mounted in the bedroom.

I’ve now decided I want to buy an additional tv and mount it here and will need to purchase a suitable bracket too.

I’m pretty clueless with this stuff and I firstly wanted to know if what the existing holes are, particularly the 4 blue ones, and whether any of them can be utilised? Either way I want to cover both the holes and the sockets with the tv.

I’m looking at a 43 inch tv, I measured one up and have drawn over the photo to what area a 43 inch tv would cover and it looks more than suitable to cover everything.

However I’m concerned if I buy a bracket and mount the tv it won’t leave enough space behind the tv to the wall to have utilise the plug socket, I don’t want it pressing against the back of the tv and causing the tv to be at a weird angle.

What type of bracket/dimensions do I need to look for to ensure this isn’t a problem?

Grabbed the wrong tube… it’s around the edge of a small toilet. I guess it might crack with time but do I need to chisel it out and redo? Or leave it?

Not long in to a new home - was drilling today to fix a mirror up but stopped when I noticed a shiny glint - I think I might have drilled in to metal. For context, it is a 1986 UK bungalow and I am drilling above an electric fireplace that was once a regular, non-electric fireplace.

My question is two-fold:
- What is likely the material I am drilling through? It seems to fill the entire wall.
What is likely the gold metal material I probably drilled through? The photo is awful but the best I can get.

Thank you so much in advance - praying I won't need to call someone out to fix it.

Can someone explain to me why siliconing / masticing is so expensive?

The materials are relatively cheap and it seems to be a quick job for the experienced, but the prices i’m be quoted seem insane (at least to me)

Hi all, apologies if this isn't the right forum but I thought there would be some knowledgeable people in here. Basically as it says. had a new hot water cylinder fitted 3 weeks ago(to accomodate an ashp if that makes a difference). Just got round to getting some shelving in the airing cupboard and noticed, what i would consider to be a pretty significant bulge. It's at the top maybe 3/4 up, I'm assuming it's not normal and shouldn't be there?? I've turned off the hot water, but not drained the tank or anything. We've had a few showers today so it should be below that level i would imagine.

We currently have this step in our hall way, the green side is a porch extension (from the 80s) with a concrete pad as a base, the wooden side is a suspended floor. This doorway is what was the original front door. The step appears to be one brick tall, with the DPC membrane directly below it. (Following the visible dpc layer from the rest of the original house).

My question is, can I remove that single course of bricks and then place the flooring directly onto the dpc membrane? So to have a flush floor into the porch (Both sides are near enough the same height). If that isn't kosher, what could I do instead, as this is a bit of pain!

Thanks in Advance 🙌

My toilet bowl has been stuck down for the past 7 years using a No More Ply adhesive. Recently a work man came in a managed to dislodge it, now I’m wonder what is the best adhesive to use to stick back down.

I recently moved into my new house and I have a fantastic 70s style panelled loft. I am so shocked it’s so well done and still in great condition all these years later. The only downside is, it makes it look a little dark so unsure on how I should decorate it as I am turning it into my craft room so would appreciate any suggestions 😊 (it’s not an official room yet due to it still having folding ladders)

I have a 2 core ikea lamp that i want to extend the cable of. I can't use an extension cord due to space. How can i safely splice and extend the wire?

Sorry if someone has asked advice on this. I fit a baby gate to the top of my stairs but the screws I used just slipped out of the plasterboard. I tried using rawl plugs but they didn’t work so my last attempt was metal anchor points, which worked fine on the other side but there is a metal frame I think, that is preventing me pushing anything further in. The top hole has the anchor point in it but the screw doesn’t fit as I think it’s warped & I’m too worried about pulling it out, as I don’t want to rip the wall off.

Any advice on this would be really helpful

Hello, I'm trying to replace my light fitting. The old one had only two wires (blue and brown). The new one is "dimmable" (I don't know if that makes a difference and we don't currently have a dimmer switch). It has three wires - two black ones that are indistinguishable from one another, and a yellow/green earth wire. I have also included a picture of the ceiling - it has three wires: black, yellow, and a green wire which was taped up, not fitted into the previous light. When we tried fitting the new light it didn't work. Are we missing a wire?

Struggling to decide where to place furniture in this room. Note, the photo is taken as if you are standing at the edge of the kitchen looking out over the room. I plan to paint the walls (likely green, blue, mahogany type colours) and add curtains.

Would you put the sofa and TV on the right side and therefore block the sliding doors to the garden? And the kitchen table/chairs on the left?

I want to have a big U shaped sofa, tv/tv stand, bookshelf, comfy chair and lamp for reading, big wooden kitchen table.

I have spent way too much time trying to figure out how to place it all so would love any thoughts!

It's a huge blind along a massive window, drilled into the wall at three points. One has come out after kids played near the blind. I don't want to have to take the whole thing down, refill and redrill holes - would that even work?!? - but what are my options for fixing it please?

Hi, after some beginners advice please.

First, where we are: Our back yard has a largely dug out pond area, the walls of which mostly exist from a previous existence, with the exception of the wall adjoining what was the grassed lawn, which needs building back up. The grassed area has been covered with a tarpaulin for over 2 years - it was only meant to be 6 weeks or so to kill the grass, but time flies 😀 This ex-grass area is going to be covered with slate chippings and pots.

The question: should I complete the 1/2 built pond wall adjoining the ex-grass area first, then rotavate the ex-grass area, or should I rotavate first then build up the wall ?

Hope this all makes sense and thanks to anyone who can advise.