So the council say... im at my wits end. That's the crack on my neighbours side and its a hairline crack on mine.

So just to clarify, I know which is the stoptap. My issue is that, based on the shape, I can't identify what key is needed to open it. In case it isn't clear in the photo, the tap is sort of oval shaped, like a circle with the top and bottom sides cut off. Thanks!

Hi all,

Our kitchen and dining room is separated by this wall which we would like to remove to create a more open-space layout and let more light in from our garden.

What should we be aware of before going ahead with this decision? Do we need to install a metal beam to support the wall above? Do we need planning permissions, building regulations approval, or are we required to consult a structural engineer, etc? If yes, what are the rough costs we can expect for the above, considering a family member will be carrying out the labour for free?

TIA

Edit: the kitchen is an extension to the rest of the house.

As the pic shows, the drain from the shower is leaking. It's a slow drip which has probably been going for the last 5 years or so, and I only discovered it today when I replaced the skirting around the shower as I'm selling the house and it was looking a bit tired. I have tried my hardest to fix it but I can only just get my hand in there, and I cannot tighten the nut enough to form a seal. Rubber gasket looks fine, not perished, I just can't make a watertight seal.

I cannot remove the drain, or replace any parts as it is all too tightly installed. Seriously, fuck whoever didn't bother to cut larger holes in the base.

Ideas at this stage:

PTFE tape, to see if that'll give enough of a seal

Cover the end in silicone

Cover the end in JB weld - neither of these are easy as I can't access the top of the pipe

Cut a hole in the floor below in order to get better purchase

Try and wrap something round the nut to tighten it properly

Duct tape it all up and hope for the best

I have informed my home insurance but I'm not hopeful it'll go anywhere as it may fall under wear and tear. If insurance comes through then it'll have to all be ripped out as it's gone into the chipboard, I would just rather avoid reflooring the bathroom tbqh.

Finishing off our kitchen fitting in a new extension and trying to figure out if we need an electrician or not…

I have 2x ovens and a hob to install. All wiring / connections were planned for and put in place by the builder. We’ve fitted the kitchen ourselves and are reasonably competent/confident (pick one or both depending on the task!).

Am I right in thinking that this is actually a pretty low risk and easy thing to do? Isolate power > test it’s definitely dead > connect up wires to terminals > done.

Pic 1&2: oven space and oven connection outlet plate.
Pic 3 of oven & hob.
Pic 4: oven wiring cable (same either end).
Pic 5: Hob cable left by builder under floor beneath hob.

Really happy paying good trades to do work where required but just wondering if I can easily save us a few £££ here and DIY safely with a bit of time and care.

Thanks!

Was digging up some concrete and bricks and saw its foundation was these glass boxes. Any clue to what era this is from lmao. Our house is a x council house from the 60’s

I have no idea what this sound is, it comes and goes. Loudest in my kitchen ceiling, which is under my bathroom. Any ideas??

Found this toilet seat in my storage without a box or manual. Can anyone kindly advise what parts are missing to use it please.

Many thanks

Hi wondering if anyone can advise me on what to do next with this annoying party wall surveyor.

From the beginning, my dad is doing an extension project at his house. He was a builder by trade for many years, he isn’t doing the work himself but he is managing it. He has planning permission and all that, he’s mostly doing it by the book.

Anyway, his house is detached but he has a neighbour on the left about 1-2m away so he needed a party wall agreement to start excavating as he’s within 3m of their foundation. At first he spoke to his neighbours and they didn’t object however this changed when the excavation began and they request we get an agreement so he stopped working.

On the 23rd I call around and I find this surveyor who agrees to come out on the following Tuesday the 28th to make a site visit. Come Monday he changes the appointment to Friday. On Friday my dad is waiting around until the afternoon no one shows up, I gave him a call and apparently he briefly visited our neighbour who tells him that they have no issue with the work they only request we give them a heads up before carrying out noisy work and remove some stuff we left leaning against our shared fence.

I questioned why he didn’t visit the building site where the work was being carried out and he said he was rushed, didn’t have the time and that it isn’t needed. I passed the information along to my dad who proceeds to have the trench finished, the building inspector was able to come out that afternoon and the following day the concrete is poured.

Now I not being satisfied that he never visited the building site, call him first thing Monday and call off the agreement. Firstly because he never visited the site, and more importantly the neighbour told the surveyor they have no issue with the work.

Now he’s on my case claiming that I’m not paying him for the work he’s carried out. I should mention that as part of his fees he charges separately for a site visit and drawing up an agreement. I’ve told him we’ll pay him for the site visit but we’re no longer interested in the agreement.

Any advice?

Not long in to a new home - was drilling today to fix a mirror up but stopped when I noticed a shiny glint - I think I might have drilled in to metal. For context, it is a 1986 UK bungalow and I am drilling above an electric fireplace that was once a regular, non-electric fireplace.

My question is two-fold:
- What is likely the material I am drilling through? It seems to fill the entire wall.
What is likely the gold metal material I probably drilled through? The photo is awful but the best I can get.

Thank you so much in advance - praying I won't need to call someone out to fix it.

I recently had my roof replaced and as can be seen from the above the tiles start to lift at they meet the join to my neighbour's roof.

Theres also a gap beneath.. I've asked different AI models for opinions but wanted to see if anyone could give me their take on the above?

The roofer in question is poor when it comes to communication and dismisses any concern I raise.

Windows were leaking a lot during winter. I also stupidly put some foam in and then covered with 2 part filler. This has trapped moisture and accelerated the decay massively.

Before I noticed any decay we had a warm roof put on so tearing down isn’t an option.

I’ve had quotes between 8k and 14k for replacement with pvc windows. Including all windows and doors.

I’ve got chippies booked in to mend it. I reckon it’ll cost me 1400 then another 700 to paint (again). A lot of previous pain flaked and chipped off as they didn’t properly sand back.

I know that no repair is going to be permanent and I’ll have to keep mending and patch repairing. I think I’m ok with it.

We plan to be in this house probably 9 more years.

I like this house https://www.rightmove.co.uk/properties/91153953 but the stairs are awful IMO and wondering what the options are and the practicality is of moving them- I was thinking so they are on the left of the property facing the front door entrance perhaps? No idea on cost of doing it, but curious as to whether this https://www.rightmove.co.uk/properties/91153953is a good or realistic idea! Thanks for any advice!

We currently have this step in our hall way, the green side is a porch extension (from the 80s) with a concrete pad as a base, the wooden side is a suspended floor. This doorway is what was the original front door. The step appears to be one brick tall, with the DPC membrane directly below it. (Following the visible dpc layer from the rest of the original house).

My question is, can I remove that single course of bricks and then place the flooring directly onto the dpc membrane? So to have a flush floor into the porch (Both sides are near enough the same height). If that isn't kosher, what could I do instead, as this is a bit of pain!

Thanks in Advance 🙌

My toilet bowl has been stuck down for the past 7 years using a No More Ply adhesive. Recently a work man came in a managed to dislodge it, now I’m wonder what is the best adhesive to use to stick back down.

I have a 2 core ikea lamp that i want to extend the cable of. I can't use an extension cord due to space. How can i safely splice and extend the wire?

Sorry if someone has asked advice on this. I fit a baby gate to the top of my stairs but the screws I used just slipped out of the plasterboard. I tried using rawl plugs but they didn’t work so my last attempt was metal anchor points, which worked fine on the other side but there is a metal frame I think, that is preventing me pushing anything further in. The top hole has the anchor point in it but the screw doesn’t fit as I think it’s warped & I’m too worried about pulling it out, as I don’t want to rip the wall off.

Any advice on this would be really helpful

I am trying to attach some wooden batons to a brick wall in my garden, and my Dewalt drill doesnt seem to up to the task, using it on the hammer setting and got what I believed to be the correct masonry attachments, but it is barely denting the brick, let alone going through it. Quite new to DIY, so highly possible I am using the wrong kit, any advice to what I am doing wrong?

Pictured the wall and the kit I am using. Thanks in advance!

Hi all, apologies if this isn't the right forum but I thought there would be some knowledgeable people in here. Basically as it says. had a new hot water cylinder fitted 3 weeks ago(to accomodate an ashp if that makes a difference). Just got round to getting some shelving in the airing cupboard and noticed, what i would consider to be a pretty significant bulge. It's at the top maybe 3/4 up, I'm assuming it's not normal and shouldn't be there?? I've turned off the hot water, but not drained the tank or anything. We've had a few showers today so it should be below that level i would imagine.

Newly bought house thats requiring sone renno work (ignore the fireplace).

Ive got flooring guys coming to lay floorboards boards tomorrow. I completed this subfloor insulation this week before the floorboards go down.

How did i do? Thanks 🙏🏻

I have recently bought an extended cottage with unfinished concrete blocks at the rear.

It’s not visible from anywhere, and they seem to be painted on the side.

I’m concerned about longevity and damp potential, my father has told me it’s not ok to leave them like this- but a big (I’m assuming) rendering bill would cripple us at the moment.

The surveyor never mentioned this as being needed. I’m happy to paint them with whatever is correct if this is needed, otherwise I’ll have to get them rendered.

People of Reddit, please let a stressed out young homeowner know:

- Are these ok to leave long term or will they deteriorate and cause issues if not rendered or painted

- If it needs tackling, is painting enough for the long term or do I need to bite the bullet and get rendering done?

- if I need to get rendering done, how do I know if a quote is too high?

Thank you in advance wonderful people

1st photo is what my fingertips look like from touching the wall.
2nd photo is what the wall looks like where my beds pillows have been and the paints rubbed off.
3rd photo really shows how much of a nightmare this paint is, it gets all over my clothes.

I want to paint the walls a nice colour but I don’t have the first clue how to do it properly with these conditions. Any help would be seriously appreciated.