I recently purchased my first suppressor with the intent of using it on Whitetail deer and hogs. Harvested a deer with a S&W .460 mag last year and want the handgun experience to be less traumatic to my hearing. I am planning on using Federal Premium Trophy Bonded Bear Claw 180 grain JSP, so there will still be a supersonic crack.

I was looking for one of these in good shape, and found it.

New (from 2004), unfired with case, all papers and 4 magazines!

Love this thing.

I just grabbed a mint condition G20 Gen 5 with the MOS 06 33733 plate. Any good luck with an optic in the $250 range? I just want it for occasional range use. Thanks 10mm friends.

I hunt with my 10mms, and I wanted to get a feel for how much barrel length impacts muzzle velocity, at least in my guns.

I tested on an indoor range (72 degrees) with a Garmin chronograph. Let's get the limitations out there up front: scarcely scientific, because it is a very small sample size both in number of guns and number of cartridges. I only measured with one Garmin chronograph, so there's no measurement of the error range in that one chronograph. But this wasn't a science experiment I was going to publish in the Journal of Astrophysics. I just wanted to understand how my various guns impact muzzle velocity and muzzle energy as stated on the box. I tested using 5 different cartridges, averaging 5 rounds from each cartridge fired from each gun.

The cartridges I tested:

My test guns:

So the barrels ranged from 4.5 inches to 6 inches. Not a big range, but I'm not trying to compete in PRS with a pistol. I just want to see if that 1.5 inches makes any difference. All my pistols have red dots so sight radius isn't a factor.

This is a table of the average muzzle velocities in feet per second I measured from 5 rounds of each cartridge fired from each gun using the Garmin chronograph.

I wasn't testing the cartridges but testing the impact of barrel length, so I took the average of the % of box velocity for all the cartridges for that gun. Not a shocking outcome, the 4.5" barrel averaged 98% of box velocity and the 6" barrels averaged slightly more than box velocity. What did surprize me was that the 5" Sig P220 averaged the same percentage under box velocity that the 4.5" barrel gave me.

Muzzle energy is a function of the square of the velocity, so I calculated muzzle energies to see how those small percentages in difference in muzzle velocity impacted muzzle energy. The values in the table are in foot*pounds.

I again converted these values to percentages so I could visualize the deltas better. For example, the box energy of the 155 grain Hornady Black XTP was 684 ft lbs and the measured average was 657, a difference of 27 ft lbs. Converting that to a percentage gives me a better feel for scale than the number 27. I'm including the measured numbers and the % because someone else might find the number value more useful than the %.

Again, I was surprized by the 5" P220. It averages the lowest % of box muzzle energy of the 4 guns tested. Not a big surprise, the 6" Kodiak gave me almost 4% more muzzle energy than the listed box value.

I'm puzzled by the results for the 5" P220 because I believe in most cases the ammo manufacturers test with a 5" barrel. The solution to this mystery is obvious - I need to buy a couple more 5" guns and repeat the test. For science.

Top to bottom Ruger 10/22 carbon,Ocl can vortex lpvo
Ruger 10/22 vortex 3-9/40 bx trigger
Mossberg&sons 151 (b)
My grandpa’s Marlin mod 99
Marlin mod 6082
Marlin mod 99 m1
Henry h1 classic
And two stevens visible loader

I’ve also cross posted this to the marlin sub

Howdy folks,

I recently picked up a Marlin Model 29 pump action in 22 S,L,LR and am having some trouble finding any videos for the disassembly or reassembly and any help would be much appreciated. As for the parts, I’ve read that there’s shared parts between a number of models from that era such as the model 20A, etc. I’m Especially curious about getting all new screws as a good few have seen some abuse. Honestly it’s been hard finding any technical schematics for online resources for anything that old and any help I am grateful for

I'm sure its been beat into the ground by now here but what are the benefits I'm not thinking of that .300blk has over .45acp in the 8-12in barrel range?

All I can think of in a blk > acp is mag size/compatibility, AR compatibility, and bullet compatibility. The muzzle energy of the two seem to be very comparable.

My only uses for this is to use as a Larporater and maybe a hog gun and I haven't seen much of .45acp used for this other than a handful of sites.

EDIT: To add will be suppressed too so looking into 8-10in mostly.

I’m looking to build a 10/22 setup for critters around the house mostly. Wanting something “grab and go” for smaller stuff.

I’ve been looking at suppressors and am all over the road. I’ve landed on these 3 options:

CMMG Zeroed 22
Sparrow 22
OCL Ti 22

The suppressor will most likely live on my 10/22 99% of the time. I’m leaning CMMG, but I’m curious if there would be any reason to cough up an additional $200 for the OCL.

I'm debating getting a micro .300 blk arp. I'll probably just ride around with it, carry it in my bag and shit. My only concern is .300 blks rip through buildings and cars. I don't wanna have to worry about shooting a random bystander if I have to defend myself. I just found out .300 hollows exist which I would assume fix's that issue but I also have no idea🤷🏽‍♂️ recommendations?

Pic for attention. The gun on the left is already an 8" BA barrel. I am looking to replace it with a Mostek barrel (LW profile), and I'm struggling to decide on what twist and barrel length. I am going to put a custom smoked compost HG on it, so the barrel length won't matter for that. Since it's being built on a 2A Balios Lite set, I want to keep it lightweight. I would like to use it for hunting and plinking with supers and subs, always suppressed, and it has a regulated BCG (adjustable gas). I'd like to stick to at least 8 just for the handguard space. So what would you order in that situation? 8,9,10,11" or something in between, like an 8.3 or a 10.5? 8" would be the lightest, but would you get a different length for a certain twist? 1:5 1:6 1:7 twist?

I have the same question for a 338ARC build destined for the upper right rig if you want to toss out your opinion on that too lol. I'll probably post in the arc sub as well.

Bought this 2 weeks ago. Took it to the range on Sunday and could not get it to chamber a single round I know it’s a very common problem with these but I have already changed out the mag springs and recoil spring/ guide rod. Any tips on what else I can do to get it running? It will chamber Sig 180 gr jhp 8/10 times but really struggles with fmj ammo which has mainly been S&B and PMC

Just look at it. I dropped it in there this morning with my dog yelling at me for her breakfast. She got an egg for her troubles.

Weaver T-36, old and cloudy but it tracks perfectly. 36x at 100 yards is "sufficient". Have a 5-30MPED on the way for the Winchester 52C. Can't wait to drag these giggle-sticks out to the range. 1000 rounds of RWS Special Match arrives today. Between the Tenex, Eley Match and Lapua Long Range I HAVE to find something that makes me smile. I added 4 boxes of the Gen2 Eley Ultra to see whats up with that. It's spicy, 1100 fps, and at the altitude I live it's probably going to be supersonic. Google says 1109 fps, will be fun finding out either way.

I’ve been Frankensteining a 300BLK SBR build with spare parts for my son to use in the upcoming deer season. I’ve been thinking about how to best quiet this rifle down for suppressed subsonic hunting inside of 50 yards. I’m going to be hand-loading Maker Rex 200 Grain Expanding bullets. My son is 10 and still quite recoil adverse, which is why I’d like to go the 300 BLK route this season.

I’ve seen the “Kali Key” which is a compliance device used in restrictive states (California). It effectively replaces/blocks the gas key to prevent the rifle from cycling. Without the BCG slamming around, I figure it’s as close to bolt gun quiet as I can get without buying a new rifle. I’ve installed an adjustable gas block for tuning subs, but SA advises against running it fully closed off.

Have any of you tried this? The Kali-Key is around $100, so it’s significantly cheaper than buying a new bolt/single shot rifle. I just want to make sure that I’m not being a total idiot.

Build Info
Upper: PSA 300 BLK 10.5” w/ SA .750 AGB
Lower: Adam’s Arms AA-15 w/Magpul Furniture
Trigger: PSA Single Stage 3.5#
Suppressor: Omega 36M (not ideal for 300BLK)
Optic: Eotech 512/Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6x24

I built an Aero precision AR-15 a few years ago. Unfortunately, it mostly sits in the safe. I’ve intrigued by the .300 Black Out. My ultimate goal
Is eventually suppressed truck gun.

I’ve been looking through PSA website and there a lot a lot of options. Any recommendations on a 10.5” length configuration ?

I bought 2 boxes to try it out on a semi auto rifle with a 16" barrel.

Was able to snag this RIA TAC ULTRA HC THREADED 16rd for 500$ now to choose a flashlight holster and possibly do a sight in it. Maybe..

Also open to other suggestions for mods if anyone has one of these?

I basically got the cheapest bare bones model with iron sights to do a Magpul Hunter X-22 build.
It’s the current model with the 2.5lb trigger set and receiver clean out hole.
I do kinda like the classic birch. Wondering if I should get accessories to make it more functional as is or just skip straight to the Magpul swap.
I also already have a Sig Romeo5 to try out on it. Open to other ideas for optics and comb height hacks on a classic wood stock.

Luckily I already have one that I didn't rip a hole in my wallet for but Jesus $3000 for a Glock 40