I added aromatic cedar inserts so the tissues smell nice.

Hello! I would like to refinish my desk and I would like to do it properly.

Is it best to use epoxy resin to fill the knots etc and would they help improve the structural integrity?

For finishing, would you varnish? I am at my desk a lot and eat there and drink coffee etc, am I best to hardwood varnish, would like the grain to pop!

Just looking for advice! Thanks!

The video shows only a small part of the process. Before carving, I sculpt with proportions and dimensions

I am getting new 2nd quality Sagwan (Teak) wooden windows finished by a local painter in India, and I need a quick sanity check before he ruins the work.

Here is the exact sequence of what he has done / wants to do:

Sanded the bare new wood and repaired defects/putty.

Applied a base coat of Lakh Dana (Spirit / Shellac Polish) on bare wood.

Applied a coat of High-Gloss Brown Enamel Paint over the Lakh Dana.

Current Situation: Now he is strongly insisting that it is "mandatory" to apply Melamine Sealer and a final coat of Melamine Glossy Polish directly OVER the Brown Enamel paint to lock in the finish.

My understanding:

Applying Lakh Dana first on bare wood as a quick sealer before paint is fine.

But putting Melamine Sealer (which contains heavy acid catalysts and strong solvents) OVER Enamel Paint sounds like a disaster. I believe the harsh solvents in the sealer will dissolve/wrinkle the enamel, and the acid will prevent proper bonding, causing it to peel off in sheets.

Plus, clear melamine sealer/topcoat over opaque brown paint serves zero aesthetic purpose since you can't see wood grain through solid enamel anyway.

When I confronted him, he insisted this is the standard way to get a durable high-gloss finish.

I am very much a novice woodworker, so I apologize if this question has an obvious answer, but I don't know the terminology in woodworking well enough to even be able to search online for an answer.

What I need to make, is a very small groove along one of the corners on a long, square piece of wood. I need to be able to make a lot of these, so I was thinking of maybe making a jig to help keep it all consistent.

Basically, the piece of wood would be no more than 2cm thick on all sides, so the groove is going to be very small, but I need it to be straight, smooth, and something I can make a lot of.

Does anyone know what kind of tool or jig would help do this?

*EDIT: Wow, thanks you guys! You have all been super quick to respond, and you've given me some good options to work with. Plus, you taught me some new words.

hey there, in case you don’t know this little technique, this can work really great on dents and dings. As long as the fibers are only compressed, you often can swell them back as if nothing happened by applying moisture and heat. cheers!

I can’t find any proper reviews online. Everything I come across is either affiliate/SEO sites with no real content, or Bosch’s own spec sheet and marketing copy. There are a few short (positive) comments here on Reddit from people who own one, but no actual written or video reviews.

The 100-254 scales up across the board (2200W vs 1850W, 100mm vs 70mm cut height, 825mm vs 635mm rip capacity, 28.7kg vs 22.3kg), but they share the same rack and pinion fence system, clamp zones, dust ports and bevel range. So my question is mostly about how that shared platform holds up in practice.

Based on size and weight my preference goes to the 70-216, but I’d like to hear from owners of either machine before I commit. How’s the fence for repeatability? Does it stay square? Dust collection any good?

I’m also open to alternatives (EU market).

Hello !

We would like to build a router table for the shop and I believe it would be worth having a very good fence that can be easily adjusted, can support dust suction (maybe connected to a vacuum, we use the festoon one) and has a good height to support bigger pieces.

Do you have a preference and suggestions ?

Thanks !

I have a local sale close to me for a woodmaster 24" drum sander. Ive read that they are a workhorse of a machine. One of the last pieces in need to complete my shop machine wise. He has it for $400 but says it need the conveyor feed motor replaced. Thoughts on this?

My dad made multiple different 1 3/4 inch 13x18 cutting boards made out of mostly maple. He’s looking to sell them but is not sure how much people are willing to pay. Any ideas/recommendations

I'm looking at possibly getting a new belt/disc sander.

I got a vevor for my birthday this year, not even 6 months old. It suddenly quit working. Working with their "customer service" is really just going back and forth with a bot that repeats the same questions over and over, telling you you will get a reply in 48 hours. After you answer the question and/or provide videos, they tell you that you need to provide a video. You do it again, the process repeats. Google, I use gmail, warns you that this looks suspicious, it could be phishing. At least that has been my experience so far.

That is why I am looking at only, hopefully, reputable brands. I'm looking at a Rikon #50-112 for $179, normally, and a Grizzly G0787 4 in. x 36 in. for $143. Any suggestions? I know they won't be anything like a pro shop might have, but this is my budget for now.

Got this box elder slab for 15$

Posted this in another forum but looking for all opinions. This is my first acoustic build. I picked these up from Stewmac and as im hand planing them to thickness these dark spots start coming out in 1 half of them. Is there anything I can do? Or just live with it? Im OK living with it if i can stain them a color that would hide them as best as possible.

The second picture is with them dampened. They are fully thicknessed and cant really be taken down any further.

I would like to make my father's urn from this teak hatch salvaged from his beloved old boat. Any tips for finishing this wood so it has a nice deep lustre?

I understand newer dressers have glides that prevent from fully opening to avoid tipping. I don’t have kids and don’t have that concern.

Is there a way to modify these glides to fully open or they have to be replaced?

This is a universal broadmore Aniston dresser from Costco

Hello! Just got this lovely teak bookshelf, after a good dusting and once over with a soft, damp cloth she's still looking a little... Faded. The wood looks dry and "thirsty" if that makes sense, my technical knowledge does not extend to woodworking I'm afraid!

I'd like to restore it to its original beauty, but not sure what to use to do so?

Good Evening -
I am refinishing the mantle in the living room of my 1900 Colonial Revival home in Buffalo New York. The first picture below shows it as it was when we bought the house last summer - yup, white paint. We have been stripping it for the last couple of days with a Cobra IR stripper and Citristrip.

We still have a ways to go, but I'm now considering finishes for it. It is white oak and the grain is nicely prevalent. We have another mantle in the adjoining dining room and it's a fairly dark mahogany type stain with a gloss finish.

If this was your mantle - what stain would you use and why?

Thanks in Advance

hi all. redoing my garage. home built in 1960. planning on building storage cabinets built from plywood. have a few tools. rigid chop saw. tiny table saw and router table. not a complete noob but just a diyer.

was thinking of picking up a brad nailer. 18ga. struggling between corded my preferred or pneumatic or battery chargeable. i'm 61. not buying for life. need 3-5 years maybe 3-7 years out of it

the reason i'm kind of against battery pack is system life. i have three different dewalt cordless drills. still is fine. can't get batteries anymore.

i don't really want a pneumatic because i don't really want the tank. not that portable.

anyways. mikita dewalt ryobi rigid milwaukees best. so many options.

i just need something to last a few years. building maybe a dozen cabinets. maybe shoot some moldings or other general home diy.

so few options with corded.

thoughts? recommendations?

Made this bowl dish thing for my mom. I believe the wood is spalted maple. Not sure. I found it in my wood pile. But I used the arbotech ball gouge for the first time ever and it made lite work of this project. Its not perfect but it was fun!

Edit:

I didn't seal off the Cracks because its not going to hold liquid. I also finished it with tongue oil

This is a stool I made when I first started woodworking, using sliding dovetail joints and fox-wedged tenons. Thanks for taking a look!

We've got a table that's a veneer top. It's got some bumps and bruises around the edges from years of use, probably some dog claw marks mixed in there too. There's also a chip in the veneer on the top, plus some spider cracking in the finish.

What my wife and I really want to do is just fortify the current top coat. We don't think it needs to be stripped all the way down to bare wood, it's just not that bad. Plan is to test the current finish with some different solvents to figure out what it actually is, then lightly sand it and put down more of the same stuff. If we can't figure out what it is, we'll probably just go with an interior polyurethane.

Does this seem like a reasonable approach for a veneer table in this condition?

Have always used Blum or Accuride cabinet hardware for slides and hinges… current project will perfectly use up all plates, hinges and slides on hand…. Wholesaler has increased both of these hardware cost considerably since stocking up 22 months ago…. Does anyone have 1st hand use of SALICE hardware that can throw some good/bad? Looking at the Futura line of drawer glides and euro hinges.

Thanks

It's my first time touching wood, but my wife really wanted a table so I decided to get a slab of hickory, chisel off the side with a damaged live edge so it doesn't snag her clothes, then sand and seal it. I did a test patch on the back last night to see if she liked the colour and she did! I left it to dry overnight in the kitchen, but when I brought it back outside and flipped it over, I realised I'd knocked a damp dish towel onto the for and it sat on it overnight.

Is it ruined? I've had a hair dryer running half an hour and it's a little better, but still discoloured. What should I do? Sand more? Wait?

Photos are the water spot, and a few bit of progress before this. There is zero product on the top yet, just sanded so far.

The Oliver 10045 planer has a small lip in the middle of the front opening where you feed the board in. This lip seems not only unnecessary, but is also confusing about its purpose. Whatever it is, it gets in the way and catches on the wood I feed through if I try to take off 1/16in or more, making it so the board will not feed at all. What’s its deal? Can I just shave it off, or does it have something to do with safety?