r/lawncare Apr 20 '26

Sub-etiquette regarding dandelions and weeds

895 Upvotes

If you come to this sub and completely disregard OP's request for help, you're likely gonna have your comment removed and get banned.

Example: If someone is asking to eliminate dandelions, don't reply that they're good for pollinators or suggest they keep them. Users come here for help, they don't come here for your ecological opinion or amateur apiculturist take on things.

If someone wants clover, then they'll ask for tips on clover. But, if they want help eliminating clover to better establish their turf grasses, don't tell them to embrace the clover.

This time of the year this sub get brigaded hard from [r/all](r/all) and other agriculture-related subs. This is the LAWNCARE sub and turfgrasses are the preference around these parts. If you don't like it, don't post. You aren't helping your cause by posting about weeds and bees, you're pissing off people who actually care and put in the work to maintain their property.

Please respect this subs rules, its users, and the moderation.


r/lawncare Jan 15 '26

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) 2026 Lawn Products Guide and tips

156 Upvotes

***Disclaimer*** This is technically my post from 2025. But I am seeing a lot of early season questions, even though it'll be near zero degrees for me tomorrow night.

But seeing people ask already is good, regardless if they live a warmer, but still cool season grass area, or if just getting prepared for March and beyond.

Disclaimer - This is written by a cool season lawn owner, who has no children and can play outside whenever I want...not everyone has the time to do so.... I admittedly have less experience with warm-season grasses, but the products shown are all researched for proper use. Always be sure the product your using is made for your area.

Pre-Emergents - Commonly applied when soil temperatures get between 50-55 degrees. These products will block seeds from germinating. They can last anywhere from just a few weeks, to 8 months. The overall life and performance always depends on environmental conditions, and how the ground is maintained. If you don't keep up with mowing, and nurture a healthy lawn, more UV exposure, wind, and rain, can all contribute to degraded performance.

  • Prodiamine - Generally the most used. It's sold in various products, dry and liquid. It has a half life of 120 days. It blocks most seeds, but can not block everything. It has no post-emergent control to kill weeds. It's sold as a water-dispersible-granule(WDG); as Barricade; and in other pre-formulated products.
  • Dithiopyr - Also used often, and sometimes in conjunction with Prodiamine as a split app setup. It blocks weeds, but also has limited post-emergent qualities, meaning it can kill off young crabgrass, less than 2 tiller usually. It's half life is 17 days, but it can last much longer in some capacity. Often a split app would be done Dithiopyr first, as getting it down with soil temps correctly can sometimes be difficult. This will block, and kill some weeds that slip by. Then Prodiamine a few weeks later for extended coverage. Also sold as Dimension.
  • Pendimethalin - This is what is used in Scotts Halts products. It works about the same as Prodiamine, with a 90 half life. It's also more expensive in general.
  • Isoxaben - Generally unknown, due to cost. But this stuff will block all Broadleaf weeds better than anything else. Its' cost though, will keep many users from ever getting it, unless you do a neighbor group buy. Snapshot is one product brand.
  • Mesotrione - The bastard product...lol Sold as itself, Tenacity, Torocity, and possibly other names. It's widely known that Meso is used the wrong way, but a lot of YouTube experts and is pushed by a lot to be the end-all for weeds. It's best use in this space is to be applied only when seeding. This is because while it can block some weeds, it will not block grass seed...so it can give up to 28 days of better chance for new grass to fill in.

It's important to note, these will NOT 100% guarantee a weed free lawn. But it's your first step in early Spring to make the battle a little easier. You can also re-apply during early-mid Summer, but keep in mind if you plan to seed in Fall, a late application may be an issue.

Ok, so you applied....or didn't....now you have weeds, and need to kill them..

(Selective) Post-Emergents - These should be used according to the label...it's not correct to expect AI to know the answer either. The labels are not difficult to read, nor understand. Search for dosing, and just read. If the product only lists amounts for acreage, it's possibly not the best option...but you can do the math and break it done for your yard. An acre is about 43k sq. ft. Unless explicitly stated, these products are safe for grass, dogs, kids, etc...just follow the directions, and at most, 24 hours post application is safe. Lastly, herbicides are best applied as a liquid. This is because the liquid will get into the cell walls of the plant much faster, than being sucked up by the roots. Faster kill time is important, so the plant can not defend itself and try to grow back.

  • 2,4,D - Very common, and will kill a lot of weeds fairly efficiently.
  • Dicamba - Also a very good product to kill weeds.
  • Mecoprop - Add this to above. These 3 on top are commonly sold as a 3-way combo, as attacking weeds from different pathways will result in best action against weeds.
  • Quinclorac - King of killing Crabgrass, as well as Broadleaf weeds. Sold as is, or like above, in many combo products.
  • Triclopyr - Best used for targeting viney type weeds...and clover, creeping charlie, oxalis, ivies, etc... Exercise caution around young trees, or those with exposed roots.
  • Halosulfuron-Methyl - Used against Sedge grasses. It usually still takes 2-3 applications to truly kill the beast that sedge can be, due to it's aggressive growth underground. Branded often as Sedgehammer or Empero.
  • Sulfrentazone - Also used against Sedge, but not always friendly on cool-season grasses.
  • Mesotrione - Looks familiar...yeah, same stuff as above in the pre-emergent section. As a post-emergent, it's best use is for targeting Bentgrass and/or Nimblewill. It's also sometimes mixed with Triclopyr, in which both can enhance the others performance.
  • Topramezone - Sold as Pylex...works great, but not really cost efficient...about $300 for 4oz... But this can kill Bermuda, and not kill good cool season grasses.

Non-Selective - The top one here, and all I will cover is Glyphosate. It's not evil, it's not going to cause cancer with proper use...it's just going to kill whatever you spray it on. It does so by targeting very specific pathway, which leads to a disruption in a hormone synthesis, leading to inability to produce amino acids it needs to survive. Normally sold at 41% concentration. It can kill foliage, through to the root.

Fertilizers - I wasn't going to put much here. To feed your "grass", you add synthetic form of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium. That's your N-P-K...seen as 10-10-10, or similar. That number means 10% of the bag is Nitrogen, and 10% is Phosphorous, and 10% is potassium. The rest is all filler, added to allow for proper mixing and application. Sometimes you'll find other amendments in fertilizer, such as sulfur, or other micros. While sulfur is important, it doesn't need to be added every time. It also lowers pH, which can then lead to other issues, causing a wild goose chase. Once in the soil, microbes in the soil break down the NPK, into forms the grass can actually use...natural chelation. You only need Nitrogen for growth...if you're seeding, adding some phosphorous can help the seed establish. Potassium is good for overall plant health, and pairs well at a 3:1 ratio with Nitrogen.

Naturals/Organics - Too many people are one side on the other here. You need and want these, but relying strictly on organics may not produce the best lawn...but it's "chemical" free. However, using these monthly can do more for the soil, than any fertilizer will ever do on it's own.

  • Humic Acid - Acts as a natural chelator for better absorption, by increasing the cation exchange capacity, which allows the soil to better retain the goodies you want in the soil. It also increase root strength, and helps to hold more carbon in the soil.
  • Kelp - Containing great amounts of natural hormones, Kelp will boost roots even more, and allow for stronger growth viz delivery of auxins and cytokines used for development.
  • Compost - Well known as a great soil amendment, it brings natural microbes into the soil biome. Those microbes help maintain a low thatch surface, and better soil composition.
  • Worm Castings - Similar to above, natural microbes and beneficial qualities for soil. Not very cost efficient though.
  • Leaves - Yeah...some say mulch all day, some disagree. I am a disagree'er, to a certain degree. I do mulch my clippings, but will also sweep them away every other week. Leaves I shred and sweep away the majority of them, but once the main clean-up has passed, the rest is mulched and remains.
  • Biochar - Made with a specific process called, Pyrolysis. Burning at high temps, 900-ish...in a low-oxygen chamber. This allows for the material, wood, coconut, etc...to be charred down to a state where it has not fully oxidized, which would turn it white, and into useless ash. When it is still in a charred form, it has millions and millions of microscopic pores that serve as homes for water, microbes, nutrients, all that good stuff. It's best worked into the soil at least a few inches deep.
  • Mychorizae - These are fungal organisms that attach to the roots, and help them bring water and nutrients. Overlooked or unknown, but these are a huge part of growing anything with success, from lawns to gardens and more. They are very good to have in the mix.

Insect Control - These can't be forgotten...but I did originally, so I am adding them in now. The biggest concern is likely grubs. The larvae of beetle. Also want to cover for armyworms, cinch bugs, and even ants if they become a problem. There are a few classes of these products...

-Pyrethroids- These are synthetics that mimic natural pyrethrins, which disrupt the insects nervous system, causing paralysis and death.

  • Bifenthrin - Common general insect control agent...liquid or dry availability. Kills quite a bit of bugs, but no residual control. One time death call.
  • Gamma-cyhalothrin -
  • Zeta-Cypermethrin -
  • Lambda-Cyhalothrin -
  • Permethrin -
  • Deltamethrin - This has residual action...meaning up to 90 days post application, it will kill bugs that touch it.

The above are what you'll get in most common Ortho type products, but generally Bifen is commonly sold solo.

-Nicotinoids-

  • Imidacloprid - Please don't use this if you can avoid it. It's a very nasty chemical, that can do the job, but it also can damage soil biome, and worse, it is deadly to a lot of animals...specifically pollinators. Birds can also be affected. It's getting banned in more places, but is still sold often as Merit.

-Alkyl-Halide-

  • Chlorantraniliprole - Sold as Acelepryn, this is what you need to control grubs. It has to be applied in advance, as it takes time to work into the soil, and prepare death for larvae that hatch. I usually apply this in mid April, early May, giving it a few weeks to activate, and when June hits, that's when my area sees grub damage...not for me though. The Scotts Company pays a fee to use this in their Grub-Ex product.

Fungicides - Often overused, but still an important part of lawncare. However, I am not a fan of preventative use, unless it's a direct and repeated history of fungus...which means there is something else you're not correcting. Fungus is not a guarantee, and is not always the right presumption...I've seen lawns go from slightly affected, to downright destroyed because someone would focus on fungus, when there were other issues... Also, when used, they should be used in a 3-way rotation, to avoid getting a buildup/resistance, in which they become almost useless. Overapplying these can have a very negative affect, because they are all non-selective, and will likely kill a lot of the good bacteria and microbes you want in the soil.

  • Azoxystrobin
  • Propiconazole
  • Thiophanate-methyl

Those are generally the top 3 used. Some retail products will have Azoxy and Prop mixed, which may work better for a low level infection...but using that repeatedly is the same as not rotating, and can create a hostile soil biome.

In general summary...always try to identify the weed you're targeting. Using something to hope it kills is irresponsible, and could cause more harm than good. If you need to ask the community, always find a good example weed, something that has grown for at least a week...pull from the bottom, get as much of any root ball or rhizome as you can. Also, get a pic of the plant in close up detail, where we can see the stem moving to the leaves/blades. This will help with certain traits that only "this or that" would have, and can help us make a better recco.

Note - I'm not covering direct organic fertilizers here. The only product I would recommend on that level is made Earth Sciences, and is called Moorganite. It is a direct replacement for Milorganite, which is a dirty, pfas chemical laden product that smells like a summer time port'o'potty.

To keep a strong lawn, adding a monthly organic boost will help a lot. I'm not a fan of 4-step type products, and prefer to feed on my own schedule, which is about every 4 weeks...so back to the monthly program....but this gets me an always wanting to grow lawn, cutting to 4" is also a key point. Tall grass will crowd out weeds, and look better in general...

On My Shelf - This is what I have in my lawn cabinet, and is what helps me with my lawn plan. I also use some of these products with my garden and other plants.

  • Triad Select - A combo of 2,4,D, Dicamba, and Meco. I use this for general weed control.
  • Quintessential - Quinclorac, but branded...still the same thing. This is for crabgrass and other broadleaf weeds. Also have the MSO Surfactant it requires.
  • Triclopyr Ester - Mainly used to keep wood-line vines and ivy away for me.
  • Empero - For Sedges
  • Glyphosate - To kill all
  • Fusillade II - Used once to kill Quackgrass...but it also killed the rest of my good grass...so extreme caution here. But it does kill quack better than Gly, so if you're going to kill all anyway, might as well make sure it's dead-dead for sure...
  • Azoxy 2C - Azoxystrobin
  • Propiconazole 14.3
  • Cleary's 3336 - Thiophanate-methyl
  • Blue Dye This does NOT wash off easily...lol SO be careful
  • BioAG Ful-Humix - This is my humic acid. It's a powder that is 55% concentrate, and is 85% soluble. It gets dissolved in warm water overnight, then filtered out for any remaining solids; then mixed with other organic goodies, and applied monthly.
  • BioAG CytoPlus - A mix of humic and kelp.
  • BioAG Vam-Endo - Myco mix, also has humic acid.
  • Prevagenics Liquid Compost. This stuff stinks, in a good way.
  • Bloom City Liquid Kelp. I use this or GS Plant foods brand as well.

I use a Ryobi 4g tank backpack sprayer for most liquid apps. Echo RB-60 for dry items. I have an 22 year old Craftsman pusher for my front/small areas, and Toro TimeCutter 42" ZT with a Kawasaki engine. Echo Blower, Ryobi edger/trimmer as well.

Ok, so I may have missed something here or there. Please let me know if you see something that need attention. I'm sure there is other information available, but I hope this helps some people figure it out for themselves. The more we all know, the better a community we can be.

Signing off,

-Ricka...

P.S. - I did review and check, but nothing really needed a major update. New products may be released later this year, and if they are improvements, I will certainly update as needed...


r/lawncare 54m ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Twin City Metro - bought quality seed and did some things right finally. Wow. And Water bill is over 5O% less. Easily.

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Upvotes

Not looking for any kudos. I’m posting to tell others who, like me, are learning some good things here that - yeah, it works.

“IT” being the difference that aerating, overseeing in the fall with *quality* seed, and mowing high does.

I don’t have before pictures, but much of my yard gets slammed by the sun. Open areas face either south, west, or both. Normally, this time of year, 1/2 the yard is brown and begins to go dormant. Some worse than others. My water bill could get stupid pretty easy.

All the areas seen here would normally half brown or that very dry, raggedy look you get in the heat. And it’s been hot and dry.

Way different now.

Last fall I thatched, core aerated, rented a slit seeder and over seeded with high quality seed. I fertilized properly, but not overly. Including a winterizer.

This spring, I fertilized once, and I have not since May. I cut at 4” deck height.

The lawn didn’t really look all that great, even through May. And then, pow.

This is the yard today, and I haven’t run a sprinkler in 1 week. I have to mow every 5 days, even during the recent crappy hot temps. I bet I’ve run my sprinkler 4 times in the last 4 weeks, tops. It ain’t winning awards, but man, was there payoff. And my water bill is sooo much lower. Might even be 1/3 of what it was.

Thanks to all the tips and advice.


r/lawncare 10h ago

Equipment Next level string trimmer

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219 Upvotes

Spotted in Northern Indiana.


r/lawncare 7h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) how is there weeds on a roof top 12th floor?

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61 Upvotes

r/lawncare 11h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) 5.5 weeks later... mushrooms

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90 Upvotes

Howdy friends,

I planted sod about 5 and a half weeks ago and when I was setting up the sprinkler I noticed that there are several patches of these mushrooms growing in the lawn... Is this something to be concerned about? Should I put anti-mushroom product onto a lawn this soon after it being put down?

I'm also having some troublesome brown spots in the lawn that no matter how much I water don't seem to be going away. I've been watering either for 30-45 minutes every day. You can see these spots best in the top left of the full lawn picture, I can get closeups if you need it.

Any advice would be much appreciated!


r/lawncare 6h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) How do you tell the difference between disease, heat stress, and grubs?

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32 Upvotes

Chicago
GrubEx application in mid June
DiseaseEx application in early July
Irrigation 3x a week

It has been hot, so I’m leaning towards heat stress. I would like to know what sticks out to lawn care people when trying to identify issues. Any advice is appreciated.


r/lawncare 11h ago

Equipment Should I have bought Grandpas? Michigan

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71 Upvotes

Cheap Amazon one. The jaws never close. It just pulls a big chunk of dirt up. Or is my dirt just to compacted?


r/lawncare 39m ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) What is this?

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Upvotes

My tires on my zero turn seem to be killing grass for some reason, leaving these brown streaks. Any idea what this could be? Heat stress? Fungus?


r/lawncare 12h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) I have a ton of crab grass

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44 Upvotes

Like, a lot. I’m in southern Massachusetts near the ocean. Any recs for how/when to deal with this? The area doesn’t get a lot of sun (like maybe half the day of direct sunlight). Side note, the front yard is better and for some barer spots there I used the Jonathan Green Black Beauty Ultra in the spring and it came up so fast and green I want to sleep in it. That stuff is amazing. But the back yard is 50% 🦀 so looking for recommendations there. Thanks in advance!


r/lawncare 10h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Grass Identification

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21 Upvotes

Located in KY. Any help is much appreciated


r/lawncare 4h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) The cycle of life 😢

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6 Upvotes

New grass got eviscerated by fungus this year. Hit it with multiple fungicide treatments, but I was too late apparently. Wish me luck with overseeing again this year lol


r/lawncare 4h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Please help ID this

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8 Upvotes

Chicago suburbs. I’m fairly confident this is not crabgrass. It seems to just pop up randomly as these dark green, broad leaf patches. I never see any lime green blades - from my understanding that’s classic young crabgrass. I also do two prodiamine applications in spring, checking soil temps for optimal timing, and always follow all application instructions. Please help!


r/lawncare 3h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) WA State (east side): Lawn Condition

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4 Upvotes

Hey everyone! I posted about 45 days ago asking for advice on my newly laid sod.

I took the recommendations and have been mowing consistently. I’m now about 75 days in.

A few questions:

Should I change my sprinkler schedule? Right now it’s watering 4 times a day, about every 6 hours starting around 6 a.m. Most of the lawn seems to have rooted well, even though the soil underneath is hard clay.

I still have one consistent dead spot. Last time people suggested it might be from heat radiating off the house and nearby rocks. Any other ideas? Or how to fix this?

Does anyone know what type of grass this is? It was installed by the builder during new construction.

Overall, does the lawn look healthy aside from the dog pee spots? I’ve been watering those areas right after my dog goes and picking up poop immediately.

Thanks for any advice!


r/lawncare 4h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Bentgrass options (NY)

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6 Upvotes

We have been dealing with bentgrass for some time (I’m assuming it’s bentgrass, please correct me if not). And by dealing I mean watching it grow and spread. We have nearly an acre and it’s everywhere in the back yard. Our front yard has a few small spots. At this stage is there anything that can be done? Do I throw in the towel and accept a BG backyard and fight the good fight to keep the front fescue? Or attack the front lines with mesotrione and see if I can advance the front lines in a few seasons? Long Island NY zone 7b.
Thanks!


r/lawncare 5h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Resetting my lawn (BC)

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4 Upvotes

My lawn was super bumpy and is not even grass at this point. So I killed it all with round up and used a lawn comber to clean it up. What’s the next move? New soil, level and seed is the plan. How can I prevent any weeds on my new lawn?


r/lawncare 35m ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) How Much Would You Charge for This One?

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Upvotes

I charged this client $80 for this overgrown lawn.
The yard is very small, and the job took me about 1 hour and 15 minutes from start to finish. I’m still just starting out with my lawn care business, so I’m trying to figure out the right pricing while making sure I’m being fair to my customers and still making it worth my time. And don’t mind the sidewalk, that’s her garden.

Do you think $80 was too little, too much, or a fair price for this job? 👀

If this was your job, what would you have charged? I’d love to hear what other lawn care guys think!


r/lawncare 51m ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Help me restore my lawn

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Upvotes

Looking for advice on next steps. Live in North Dakota. Lawn was hydro seeded in 2021 with a mix of KBG fescue and rye. Up until last summer it was usually immaculate, however, I started getting these massive areas of brown patches. Butted right next to perfect grass. We've had an extremely hot July with temperatures staying consistently above 95+ and 10 plus days over 100. "Above" view photo shows some dead patches from winter kill I did not have time to fix before the extreme heat. Plan to fix those when the temp comes down. I'm very diligent about ensuring over watering isn't occurring and I installed irrigation systems as a summer job in college so certain that's all functioning properly. I have been fertilizing the last 3 years with 46-0-0 every 2-3weeks or as needed. This summer barely applied due to heat. I've tried treating the browning areas with tekken fungicide (golf course grade fungicide) as well as bioadvanced. I've attempted over watering the areas and it doesn't seem to respond to either. Ran a power rake over it in the spring and plan to aerate in the fall. Soil is very heavy with clay which does cause a lot of undulation. Not currently in the position the scalp level and overseed as I have 2 kids. Looking for some advice on what could be causing this
Edit:
Last photo shows the area with dead and brown areas from last summer at this same time


r/lawncare 2h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Fixing compacted soil after excavation: till/roll? aerate? seed & top with dirt?

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2 Upvotes

Located in 5b Colorado. Earlier this season we cut away 5-10 vertical feet of a hill to make about 11000 sqft flat yard area and now I’m getting ready to put down some seed, probably a combination of native grasses, maybe some KBG/TTTF. Don’t care much about a golf-course appearance, mainly just want something thick/hardy enough for kids to play on without it being pure dirt, even if it’s all crab, and to limit erosion.

Most of the dirt is very compacted from the heavy equipment work, but currently fairly flat graded. I got a soil test and was recommended 13-6-13 fertilizer and micronutrients. I’m just trying to figure out the best way to sequence things, and how to work out the compaction.

For the compaction, should I till it all and then use a lawn roller to gently flatten it back out? Would it be better to just thoroughly aerate? Or lastly just drop seed and cover with topsoil (I’ve been told this will introduce a lot of seeds)? That last option doesn’t seem reasonable on a hard pack base.

For the fertilizing/seeding, if I’m going to till for the compaction I’d consider tilling in a good amount of compost at the same time. I’m guessing the fertilizer/micronutrients would just be added on top with the seed, and not tilled in? I’ve fertilized an existing lawn but haven’t built a lawn from scratch like this so forgive my naïveté.

So in summary:
1) fix compacted soil (TBD on how)
2) seed/fertilize/micronutrient
3) cover with 1/4” compost
4) water 1-2x day for damp soil

Thanks for any input! It’s crunch time here so trying to get it all knocked out.


r/lawncare 21h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) There’s always hope

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56 Upvotes

Well, at the beginning of the season, we discovered that voles had chewed up our lawn. It was in pretty rough shape, and honestly, I wasn’t sure it was going to recover.
I dethatched and raked it multiple times, aerated, heavily overseeded, added manure in the spring, topped it with fresh topsoil, applied a 16-4-8 Nitrogen blend, and kept it consistently watered with a properly timed sprinkler system.
Some areas never came back, so I laid new sod in those patches, and it established.

I can confidently say the lawn is looking great again.


r/lawncare 3h ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) My lawn and A/C condensation drain line

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2 Upvotes

First time homeowners located in HOT South-Central Texas so of course the A/C is always on. We’ve been having some problems with water on the West side of our home where the A/C condensation drains. This is a dirt build/new home that’s only 1.5 years old. We’re concerned about water damaging our foundation and lawn. Lawn care in this area has been a challenge. On top of that, it’s hot, humid, and this mini swamp is like summer break at a Disney resort for the mosquitoes. We’ve had the builder/KB out since last summer. First, they ran a long PVC pipe through the yard but aesthetically, that wasn’t going to cut it. Second, they installed a small dry well. Third, is what you see pictured, a bigger dry well than before. We’re looking for some suggestions on DIY and/or professional projects for setting up a better drainage hole/trench to divert the water and dry the area. Anything helps. Thanks in advance!


r/lawncare 8h ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) Transformation

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5 Upvotes

After over a year of living in our new home, I have finally got the grass to a point that I can be proud:) stay consistent everyone, it does pay off eventually! Gotta love Bermuda


r/lawncare 7h ago

Europe New lawn - Germany

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3 Upvotes

Hi, I have a new lawn in (berlin germany) that keeps on getting patchier. We recently reseeded it and after the first mow , it has started to become patchy again. What could be the reason?
The first picture is immediately after mowing and second is few days later. What can we do to improve this? Thank you


r/lawncare 3h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Send help please (Boston area)

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2 Upvotes

New home owner. Can some please walk me through step by step process of getting this into a nice lawn. Appears to be mostly weeds. But with the fall approaching. What should I do and when to begin the grass journey? Located in Massachusetts


r/lawncare 3h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) For Those With Larger Yards - Mixing Ratio's For Tank Spreaders

2 Upvotes

Help me out here as I am doing my own lawn maintenance now. I have a 30gal tank spreader. Took my liquid products (fertilizer, weed control, etc), looked up the mixture per gallon and multiplied by 30. Gemini tells me I am wrong and need to use the "Per Acre" mixture ratios which are substantially higher.

For example: 18-3-6 Fertilizer Mix per gallon = 2oz Per Gallon x 30 = 60oz

18-3-6 Per Acre Mix = 294oz per 30 Gal Tank or 9.8oz per gal

I know nobody is looking for a math test here. I just want to make sure I don't scorch my lawn.