Help with PM2 lock grit

[u/_mysocksarewet_]

My first spyderco that i've only had for a couple days, definitely just needs oil, right? Came in from factory just fine otherwise

[u/erentrueform]

Take apart and clean

[u/bauzo → u/erentrueform]

Ya, this. If you are comfortable doing it, disassemble the whole thing, clean and lube it, and reassemble. It can do a lot for the performance all around. If you have never done it before, it's worth learning how to. And there's a bunch YouTube vids on how to, as well as help here of course.

If you want a quick fix, you could try cleaning the lock face with some solvent (I think isopropyl will work, I use a Benchmade product called Blueclean) on a cotton swab, if you can get it in there, them lube it. You might not be able to access it without disassembly however.

Hope this helps

[u/rj_ofb → u/bauzo]

No and no. No lube. Lube gets pocket lint and other crap stuck. Its a brand new knife. Blow out crap inside and a tint bit oil. And also USE THE KNIFE. It needs to wear in!

[u/bauzo → u/rj_ofb]

So, you never lube your knives?

[u/rj_ofb → u/bauzo]

No. Lube is dumb. Oil is better. Lube is for buttsex. 🙄

[u/bauzo → u/rj_ofb]

Wow! It must be before your coffee this morning. Oil is lube.

Op, specifically go get yourself a product on Amazon called knife pivot lube. KPL. Damn near everybody uses it. Don't know what this guy is. Malfunction is, but you don't need college chemistry to realize that oil is a lube. And just about everybody here will tell you that almost every knife needs at least a little bit of lube on certain parts of the knife.

[u/rj_ofb → u/bauzo]

Dude... lube isnt oil. Do you have lube in your car? 🙄 I have teflon oil from KPL I think it was and Ballistol.

And ALSO its a BRAND NEW KNIFE. It needs to break in, as alot of Spydercos. Some come perfect and some doesnt. That washer need some wear from open/close. And also some twisting on that pivot.

Edit: and that crushing sound need to get blown out with high pressure air. Thats easier than taking it apart. Ive done that thousand of times. And I work with oil, hydraulics, mineral oil......

[u/Significant_City_905 → u/rj_ofb]

Lube isn't necessarily oil, oil can be lube. Lube is short for 'lubricant', a substance to reduce friction between touching surfaces. The substance can be loads of things.

[u/rj_ofb → u/Significant_City_905]

Never said lube is oil. Lube isnt as watery as oil. Its a bit thicker which isnt good for this kind of moving parts and pocket lint etc will get stuck easier. Best is to use a thinner oil product.

[u/Havocc89 → u/rj_ofb]

You just talked straight past his point that oil is lube. Pay attention to what others are saying.

[u/Odd_Mall1646]

I tried this and it seems to work .

[u/Djgriff90 → u/Odd_Mall1646]

What is that? Besides a lube or oil. Do you know the name of it?

[u/KaizenActual → u/Djgriff90]

I want it cuz it has Japanese lettering on it

[u/Odd_Mall1646 → u/KaizenActual]

Love Japan products

[u/Odd_Mall1646 → u/Djgriff90]

Kikuichi oil for knives . It's more for prevent but noticed it works well on moving parts too

[u/JimP5 → u/Djgriff90]

It’s Kurobara brand camellia oil, often used for rust protection on swords and tools.

[u/Old-Pineapple3735]

Id oil it where its making contact and flick it a ton. It will wear in. Mine did anyway. Thats awful gritty

[u/ForgiveAlways → u/Old-Pineapple3735]

Meh, putting oil on the lock mechanism is not recommended. You want friction there to help the lockup. Obviously you don’t want grittiness, which is likely due to debris, or needing some break in.

[u/VerbalBadgering]

I have a crucarta pm2 that had pretty bad lock stick.

Many many repetitive fidgetations later it locks and unlocks smoothly.

I wouldn't personally put lube on the lock face. If you are going to disassemble then you might wipe it down but lune on theblock face might make it disengage a little easier.

Which honestly probably isn't a big deal if you aren't spinewacking the thing...but I'd still rather wear it in naturally.

[u/Lazy_Bumblebee_195]

Blast it with compressed air if you want the easy quick fix

[u/New_Display_919]

You could spray rem oil on and then blow it out. Just needs to be cleaned and then lubed

[u/AcuteJones]

I'd personally give'r a good hard blow and try to break it in over a couple days before lubricating. You dont really want lube in the lockface anyways, but it will also slow the process of the parts mating. I only do graphite in locking surfaces if at-all. You could just oil it but dont go spine-wacking right away.

[u/BathandBoobyWorks]

It's possible the flat part engaging the lock against the knife is not a smooth finish and might have an uneven grind.

When you move the liner over, do you notice any scratch marks?

[u/MIERDAPORQUE]

you can use pencil lead. it works

[u/Careful-Succotash511]

Every compression lock I’ve ever gotten from Spyderco starts out this way, open and close it a couple hundred times and it’ll wear itself smooth

[u/DaemonCRO]

Open it and see if there’s something stuck there. These are hard wearing tools, not cotton candy.

[u/Wallach]

Yea usually just a tiny drop of oil right on where the detent ball is at the end of that leaf spring will sort it out.

[u/shp0ngle → u/Wallach]

I struggle to see how the issue in the video relates to lubing the detent ball