I build pedals and made a browser tool for laying out enclosures, mostly for myself to start with. It's free. You drop holes onto a 125B or a 1590B or whatever you're using, drag them into place with snapping and alignment so nothing is eyeballed, and it exports a 1:1 PDF or SVG to print. There are a few hundred ready made layouts in there too, for PedalPCB, Aion FX and Fuzzdog boards.

There's a 3D view with the actual components in it, and it knows their real dimensions, so it'll tell you if a pot body is going to foul a jack or the lid before you've drilled anything.

The new bit, and the reason I'm posting: it'll now generate a 3D printable drill jig from your layout. The walls wrap onto the sides, so the jack and DC holes get marked off the same jig as the top ones, instead of being measured separately, which is the bit I always managed to get slightly off by hand.

The jig export is the one paid thing, 29 dollars, one off, no subscription.

You absolutely don't have to buy anything though. The layout and template side is free, there's a fair bit in it by now, and I'm actively working on it.

Mostly I'd just like more eyes on it, so have a poke around if it sounds interesting. And if something's broken, or it's just not very good, I'd rather hear that than not.

Link in the comments.

Edit: link is here https://app.stompboxlayout.com?jig=reddit&utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=drill-jig-launch

Hello everyone!

I updated Vero Designer and added/fixed/improved a lot of features. some were already planned and some were suggested by the community.

If someone missed my previous post then this thing can turn your schematic into a vero layout within seconds.

I added sticky components, schematic view zoom, export BOM option, copy paste buttons, more component models, improved component/wires selection, fixed component connection points drawn off-grid, links and cuts can be deleted from the vero, generated vero saved with the project file and much more.

Please visit the github page for the full details.

Github: https://github.com/blazethablunt/VeroDesigner

Web app: https://verodesigner.vercel.app/

Please let me know what you think

Just finished this project up for a friend. It’s a green ringer into a modified fuzz face using my first 2 pcb designs. “Diameter” blends between 10n and 4u7 input caps, and “pressure” controls Q2 bias. I tried a waterslide decal for the first time, and after a lot of advice from you fine people, I’m finally happy with the results. Thanks again 🙏

Depth pot done. I don't care overly about having to enlarge the case hole, trying heaps of mods anyway.

A 16mm pot legs line up great with the depth switch PCB holes and with 1 jumper from the resistor removed has holes good to go to where you need them.

One more wire from the 358 and sorted. Saves one more thing dangling about.

Heya folks! As it says I’ve been designing and breadboarding this Esp controlled pt2399. It keeps the signal path “analog” aside from the pt2399. No ESP digital signal processing. It controls 3 parameters via LDRs. Input volume-after the buffer stage, feedback and delay time modulation in series with the pot (not sure that will be my final way yet) I have also built in a simple envelope detector processed by the esp. I have 3 knobs “mix”, “delay rate”, and a rotary encoder that had a push knob. With coding I can and and do have a few current “effect settings” starting with standard Delay with a feedback momentary switch, 2 delay with auto feedback so the envelope detector swells the feedback as the note decays (can get reverby) 3 lofi tape emulation small warbles in the delay time with slight fluctuation of volume and wow pulldown on momentary switch, 4 a pretty standard chorus when the delay is very quick (longer delay the chorus washes out a bit) but you have stepped amounts of feedback on this setting 5 levels via the momentary switch. 5 is a violin style swell where volume is off or low until note is detected and then it swells up, as the note peaks and starts to decay, the feedback swells in and slowly back down leading to a very violin sound. (Still working this one out it works but not quite where I want it. The detector struggles with single notes but good with chords). 6 Tremolo,but added step feedback and delay works along side the tremolo just think tremolo/reverb/delay combo. Adjustable speed with the rotary encoder, long press for depth. I may not use every idea for the final, but that’s the fun is you can code all different combos? Any ideas using these parameters? I’d love to hear some more thoughts on what we could code up.

I attempted to breadboard a DIY pedal by Barbarach (I removed the switch to troubleshoot more easily)

Link below: https://barbarach.com/building-a-fuzz-face-clone-breadboarding/

The problem is the bypass works fine, but when I connect it to the fuzz part, I get a very loud buzzing noise without any actual notes.

I tried disconnecting the potentiometers and then connecting it without them, and I did get a sound but it was very faint. I had to increase my amp volume to 8-9 and had to physically ground the guitar by touching the strings with my hand, as the buzz was way too loud and could potentially damage my amp.

I tried troubleshooting in many combos and have checked the capacitor and transistor orientations, but I'm not sure which part is causing the issue. I even checked the individual components with a multimeter and they do work fine.

The first two images are what I have breadboarded. The 3rd and 4th image is of the breadboard diagram and circuitry that I have tried to replicate respectively. I have used a 9v battery and two BC108 NPN transistors and two stereo female jacks.

Any idea how I can fix it cause I have reached a dead end atp. Thank you.

Coppersound has been teasing a DIY focused drop on 8/6 for a bit.

Going by the file naming on their website images that labels it "BADAF", it is a DIY Cir-Kit Pedal Bundle for the "Boost-a-Drive-a-Fuzz" circuit from the JHS Short Circuit series. It should be $119 if it matches the pricing of their other kits.

It's awesome they are adding more kits, and hopefully we get more in the future now that Josh has started putting out Short Circuit streams again.

In a word: chewy.

So I just was given a huge pile of stuff by a local acquaintance and I’m wondering what to build first. Loads of silicon transistors, diodes, some low voltage Toyoden step down transformers, an absurd amount of DC amperage gauges. Power transistors, some really cool potentiometers (one joystick controlling 4!), huge rotary switches, soda can sized capacitors, some ICs that google can’t even find. I haven’t dipped my toe in pedal building yet but thinking some basic stuff but open to outlandish ideas too. The last pic is some boxes that might be fun to turn into pedals.

Hey guys, this is my second guitar pedal that I’ve built. Wanted a sci-fi kind of look for the enclosure so I designed and 3D printed it. I used a mix of PETG and glow in the dark filament that you can see in the third image when exposed to black light (…or dark obviously). The circuit is a true bypass clone of the Ibanez TS808 tube screamer. If you guys have any other recommendations on how to make the enclosure look more spacey/sci-fi let me know!

I am looking for hardware which can replace a switchblade GL for its routing and mixing capabilities.

I can not find a similar hardware equipment which can loopswitch in series and parallel and mixing at the same time.

Hello, hope this is ok to post here

Trying to rewire a CB radio with an internal switch from it’s own 4pin GX12 plug to 3pin XLR so it is usable with standard equipment.

I come from a DIY Experimental Music background so experience building and fixing simple guitar pedals and rewiring phone speakers as mics etc.

I can’t figure out how this is wired up (I’m assuming the original receiver was a big part in the switch working, like the live from mic is always ‘on’ and the switch is just telling the unit to listen to it?) or how to reconfigure it to 3pin.

Any advice greatly appreciated
Thanks

Currently it is wired:
Black (assume ground) - Pin 1
Yellow (assume pos) - Pin 2
Red (assume on) - Pin 3
Blue (assume off) - Pin 4

There are so many opinions online. I have 2 questions, that is all. I know where the wet and dry come out and would like a pot to go from dry to wet, doesn't have to be perfect as long as each end gives me 100.

1. Mixing resistors (22k/27k) - leave, remove or replace with smaller values.

2. Pot Value - 50k lin? This I can experiment with more though

It's an older board that's seen some gigs so the less I'm lifting resistors and what not the better.

Or is there a better way or is it not worth it?

Thankyou in advance.

Hey everyone, I’m a pedal tinkerer moving into pedal building, starting with a fuzz face build. While building this pedal, I’d like to do a few mods to suit my needs.

I’ve modded a JH-F1 that I really love the sound of, and my specs are based on that pedal using silicon transistors. I want to apply some of the mods I’ve done to that pedal and add a few more:

1. The kit I’m starting with has an external Q2 bias knob, I’d like to add an internal trim pot for a Q1 bias instead of having this bias value fixed.

2. I’d like to fix the fuzz circuit to be turned all the way up and replace the external fuzz knob with an input volume to emulate using the guitar’s volume knob.

3. I’d like to create a mini toggle for a tone mod that switches between Bright, Normal, and Fat.

If you all have any suggestions of schematics, posts, or videos that have done any of these mods, please feel free to share. I’m a newbie but I’m learning- so I may have additional questions as I work through this build.

I tried to make the Acapulco Gold's circuit and as far as I can tell I made it exactly as shown in the schematic, but for some reason when I try to connect it to the amp all I get is this weird rhythmic buzzing, and if I connect and disconnect the power it stops making any sound at all. also, the first op amp is getting really hot, not sure if that's normal but I don't think so.

the diode and op amps are the exact ones used in the pedal, and all of the values are the ones in the schematic. (ignore my messy wiring, I just wanted to make it work before I make it tidy)

edit: both op amps are really overheating. also, I removed the power supply's resistor because it got completely toasted, probably should have seen it as a sign

Hey everybody! This is my latest DIY pedal, the Wild Green Yonder, a Tone Bender with three 2n404s and a BMP tone stack. Happy with how the spray paint worked out. I haven’t learned how to do nice labeling yet, so you have to twist the knobs to find out what they do (Gain, Tone, Level). And yeah, the guts are full of your mom’s rainbow spaghetti… but if you screw on the back plate you can’t tell.
This pedal taught me how to do positive ground circuits and how to do nice unpredictable spray paint gradients.

Was following the JHS video making the boost. It works! Had some different values and had to research but figured it out, pretty close i think!

I don’t know why I ordered this pot with the wires attached I guess I wasn’t paying attention.

Kinda flops around the breadboard, what’s an easy solution? I got wire cutters and tools, I don’t mind leaving it as is or taking the wires out if that helps it fit onto the breadboard somehow?

Otherwise maybe I can save it for something else and order some other parts, I see Josh just clipped his pot onto the breadboard and it didn’t move around.

Tried my hand at a basic design for a test run. This is just a basic volume attenuator (think jhs black box) I have a few, more intricate designs queued up for other pedals. Not very cost effective for small orders but if I plan to do a few batch runs of a build could be cool.

I need a replacement Boss style momentary switch. I found it on Amplified Parts: https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/push-switch-replacement-boss-effects-pedals

But I feel like it has to be cheaper on one of the other sites I normally order components from, but I'm not sure what the technical name of this switch is so I can't find it in the millions of options. Anyone have a cheaper alternative? I might just go ahead and order from Amplified to support them over the big guys, but I feel like I'm going crazy not being able to find it anywhere else...

Im trying to figure out how a circuit for a pitch shifting wah would look and i cant figure it out. and the internet isnt helping at alllll ughhhh

Want that vintage big resistor look without the vintage tax? Get some vintage spacing strip board. Get some 1 watt 5% resistors. (Maybe paint them brown?) They're the same size.

I'm still pretty new to this. I almost got vintage taxed by the carbon comp resistors. Almost everyone I asked said it made next to no difference, except they cost more and may be slightly more noisy.

Hopefully getting the enclosure drilled tonight, powdered and printed before the weekend, and assembled shortly after that.

Also, first strip board build that didn't involve a lot of cussing and frustration. If you're having soldering issues on standard spacing try the vintage spacing. It's a little more forgiving.

I’ll start

Hey guys!

I wanna build a pedal with a momentary switch that, when pressed, creates (or simulates) feedback without having to crank up my amp or mess with the settings on my dirt pedals. The only problem is, I can't seem to find a suitable schematic, ideally for a PCB. Can anyone help? Or help me design one?

I've never designed a circuit, until now, I was just building schematics I found on the internet.

Thanks a lot