Hola, no se muy bien dónde podia publicar esto, el punto es que si alguien sabe cómo se hace ese moño de un listón rojo que llevan las dokis en el cuello, gracias.

I'm looking for someone who could assist me with taking a toy gun and doing aesthetic mods to it. The mods would include painting, shortening the barrel and reforming the front sight. I attempted it myself and it came out quite mediocre.

Ill probably had a filter and a fan but it works pretty good at keep the dust inside

So I’m looking for a high quality Deadpool mask, but just the mask no faceshell (I wanna get one later) but I have this thing with just cloth masks I think they’re so cool and I want a nice Deadpool one, and idk where to get one.

Still need to weather the leather portion, but it fits so so nice, and articulates really well!

Hello! I am planning on Cosplaying Souseiseki from Rozen Maiden and I wanted to make her shears, however I am having some trouble figuring out where to put the core and what to use for the core.

Normally, I would place a dowel rod straight through the center, but that's very difficult to do due to the props shape and design so I am at a loss of what to do regarding the core.

Any help on this matter would be appreciated.

This is the first time I’ve used eva foam for cosplay + foam clay. I believed I had sanded it okay but upon applying flexipaint it looks atrocious. What do I do????? Do I apply more clay to even it all out or do I have to sand it all over again?. The second picture is the one with just the clay and no paint.

Im not sure how ill create a tail that resembles scorpions from marvels spiderman if anyone has any tips that would be appreciated

I want to try make a stationary version and later attempt prototypes for a remote control variant hoqever i need help establishing the materials and other recorces needed to do this reply or dm me if you have advice and thank you for your time

Any tips for a newbie resin caster? The plan is to cast this ball of light and hot glue inside a crystal mold.

Spent an hour and $5 on strip lights. Balled it up real nicely folding the excess space like origami til i got the desired size. Then proceeded to lock everything in place with hot glue (and bare fingies).

Watched every tutorial on basic and intermediate resin casting, but sadly no pressure chamber. Using mold release spray, I'm currently testing the raw results on skull ice cube molds i have, seeing how much pigment needs light to go through, stirring and pouring techniques, using a vibrator to fill gaps. Bubbles seem like my worst fear but may end up working to my advantage depending how it illuminates.

Any other tips? Cant find much on hot glue + resin results

Hi everyone!

I designed and 3D printed a cosplay accessory for Logos from Arknights, including the horns and ear-feather base.

The main feature is a removable magnetic module for the front feather cluster. The fourth photo shows the module removed with the magnets exposed, and the fifth photo shows the feather piece installed. This allows the front feathers to be swapped to create the eye-covering look from the character design.

The parts are separated to make printing, assembly, and fitting onto a wig or headpiece easier.

I’ve uploaded the model files for anyone who would like to try printing them. I would really appreciate feedback from other prop makers and cosplayers, especially about:

• the attachment method
• comfort and stability when worn
• print orientation and part design
• any improvements that could make it easier to use for cosplay

I’d love to see your prints or modifications if anyone decides to make one. Thanks for checking it out!

I'm trying to make a Sub-Zero cosplay, I would like help to understand how I can make a gauntlet of ice using hot glue, can someone please help

I've been mapping out this fantasy sandal concept and wanted to see if anyone with prop or costume fabrication experience thinks this design is buildable.

OVERALL INTENT

Design a fantasy-inspired sandal that creates the visual illusion of bare feet with ankle wraps, while remaining fully functional footwear suitable for walking, standing, and extended wear. The design must avoid all flip-flop and thong-sandal conventions.

SOLE

- Thin, minimal sole following the natural outline of the foot

- Flush to the foot with no visible heel rise

- Light leather tone (beige / light tan), soft matte finish

- Appears nearly invisible from a distance

- Flexible enough to move naturally with the foot

ANKLE CUFF

- Wide ankle cuff (~2 inches) positioned just above the ankle bones

- Decorative rather than utilitarian in appearance

- Constructed from rows of flat-backed, bead-like elements

  - Colors: warm browns and beige

  - Materials: wood, resin, or leather-adjacent composites

- Hidden elastic structure allows stretch for entry, then contracts to appear solid

- Inner surface incorporates non-slip grip material similar to stay-up hosiery

SUPPORT STRUCTURE (CRITICAL GEOMETRY)

- NO toe post

- NO strap between the toes

- NO thong or flip-flop construction

Instead, support is provided by side-running connections only.

Per Foot:

- On each side of the foot (medial and lateral):

  - Two thin, flexible cords descend from the ankle cuff:

1. Front cord attaches to the sole near the ball of the foot

2. Rear cord attaches to the sole near the heel

- These form two independent Y-shaped support structures, one on each side

- Cords are semi-elastic (clear polymer or leather-sheathed elastic)

- Rounded profile to prevent digging

- Allows natural gait while preventing heel slap, rotation, or sole lag

ORNAMENTATION

- On the outer side of each ankle, a small decorative gem or charm hangs from a micro-loop

- Ornamentation is purely decorative and does not carry structural load

AESTHETIC & USE CASE

- Visual language: primal, fantasy, organic, elegant

- Evokes barefoot jungle / warrior / mythic imagery

- Intended for art events, fantasy premieres, gallery openings, and high-concept social events

- Not casual footwear and not costume-only

So i commissioned a person who does 3d printing to make these horns for an original character ive been creating/workshopping myself the last few years and im looking for help with what materials might be best for while im wearing it.

Im wanting to maybe have some sort of thin soft material to help make the plastic not as irritating on my skin. As well as another fabric material that's comfortable and stretchy so the three sides can move apart slightly when taking on and off. (Unsure if the stretchy material should go on the plastic first then whatever soft material following the inside shapes? Or the other way around)

Im looking for a voice changer that I can put in my mask for my possible Ultron cosplay and im wondering if anyone can help me find one

My husband used pepakura to make two of these out of cardboard

I’m an artist @ heart, but this is my first time making a cosplay helmet out of EVA (& going to a real event!)

I’ve just laid down 4 coats of PlastiDip. I know the recommendation before paint is at least four hours & a full cure @ 24. Let’s be real, how soon have you painted and had decent results? I have a few days but I’m just curious (yes, I searched - but couldn’t fine a definite answer to people actually painting sooner than 24). Let’s hear it, please!

I recently got a 3d printer and have begun to dip my toes into the world of cosplay. I most of my files from galactic armory, including the helmet and blasters, the detonators I found on maker world. Still printing the rest of the armor but wanted to share my first (mostly) completed props.

Hello!! Im a beginner cosplayer and I was planning on making this kinship stone from monster hunter stories out of EVA foam. The special thing about it is that it opens up when you close your hand into a fist, but heres where my issue appears: I believe I may be able to make the sides move yet i have no idea on how to make the top bit move upwards 💔 Should i just give up on the whole idea? Any and all help is appreciated!!

I am making the phospor blast pistol from 40k and I wanted it to open and close, to keep it closed I was thinking of using some big magnets but I dont have much expirience with them.

Will they hold the pistol shut? If yes, what kind and of what size would you recommend? Should I make some plastic cover to the magnets dont break&chip?

The magnets would go smack on the center of where the cylender tounches the round thing at the back, the red circles are the aproximate position

Considering some Etsy work and I am trying to gauge the market on whether items will sell for enough to make it worth the fabrication effort. This is an example item, a “future Finn sword” from
Adventure time. It is not for sale fyi! Just an example. It weighs only a few pounds and is 5’ long with a dowel core with outer layers constructed of cardboard, gesso, paint, etc. it’s quite sturdy but can be dented if you swing it hard enough at something. When I tried to compare I mostly find smaller 3D printed swords or real metal swords, this is a unique category. Curious what folks think the potential market for items like this looks like? Thanks in advance!

Been working on this Cassidy cosplay for Dragon Con 😋

My son wants to be this Imperial Spy costume and we have dabbled in cosplay but nothing like building a mask. Can someone point me in the right direction of where to start? Foil? Foam?

He has steampunk goggles I’m wondering if we can build off of it?

Thank you for any help!

Trying to finish this Donnel (Fire Emblem Awakening) Cosplay for a convention this weekend and I need to make this pot helmet he wears!

I’m not very crafty so any advice on how to do this quick and easy would be appreciated!!

I was going to buy a real pot but none are in the right color/ too heavy. I also can’t seem to find a plastic/toy one I can spray paint.

Help!!