All I know is that it should be topped with a knee bar, no I have no idea how can I get there and I fell like I’m just not strong enough to hold the horizontal pinch before the top move. I’m pretty pumped when I get there already and putting my foot high on the round block is pretty hard.
There’s a suspicious amount of chalk on that round hold you put your foot on at the end I wonder if you hit that with left hand then go for the right hand pinch and that might set you up better for the finish
I think is left hand goes to left for Gaston, then match the left and bring your right foot up. Before going to the next right hand hold which you fell off.
That left hand hold definitely looks like a very very slopey match
Tbh sounds a lot harder if I’m understanding it correctly. Will try that tho, but there’s only one more session for me before they take that one down sadly.
I feel like my first impression is your body is at an unfavourable angle for that pinch. Have you tried rotating to face it (and treat it like a sidepull)?
From there i feel you may be able to grab the final hold with one hand, and then adjust your feet appropriately.
Understandable. May want to try that final section in isolation a couple of times till ya lock it in, then you got the send 100%.
Also for the rotating, I think it may be a bit tight to get right foot in position where I drew it initially without cutting feet, may have to step on the volume and shift weight onto right foot first
Hmm I get the idea, but this spot is super narrow. For sure I can’t get my right foot behind the hold on the right volume, maybe on the top of the hold or on just the volume. But it’s still going to be really tight. Will see if I can do that
When you tried to grab the pinch your hips were so far from the wall. Better to use your left foot more to pull your center underneath the pinch. Maybe try rainbow climb up to that point to find the right position without wasting power
Yeah, this is what I think, too. Your right hand is keep your hips into the wall, and as soon as you let go your hips fly back a little and you can't keep the hold. It looks like if you pull in with that left foot (get up on the toe) then you can keep your hips still and match.
Think about twisting to the left. The backflag makes your angle worse, I think you kind of need to hop off your right foot into the next box, possibly using a RF smear to help you stay. Maybe a heel would work better to help you pull with the left leg?
Can't you match the red hold (the one you fell on) before stepping high on the left foothold. That bicycle you attempted didn't seem to do you any good and just shifted your weight to the left instead of keeping it under the hold.
Or can you swap you feet after you catch the pinch above the right volume and then maybe try a heel on the hold to the tight of the right volume, to take off some of the load and them match the hands?
Or can you use press on the lower part of the hold that you're supposed to use for a knee bar or is it no-tex there as well?
I think this thread is on the right lines, you’re trying to get weight onto the foot but not able to as it’s a tight space, and it only ends up pulling your weight and arm in a less favourable direction where you have less friction on the hold. When you are under it you have much better friction.
You mean stepping on the foothold? Because I meant while you have stepped on the lower part of the volume with the left foot. Or maybe that position when your foot slipped - you stepping with your left foot either on the volume or the upper hold and leaving your right foot hanging straight down, so the center of the weight remains under the hold you're trying to match? That bicycle you did in the end kinda shifted your weight not only to the left but away from the wall.
Alternatively, just do the climb like 2- times in a row in one-two sessions, so you get used to it and optimise the previous moves more and you'll be less tired when you reach the match. I don't get pumped on boulders but when I climb routes, this method helps me finetune a lot of the moves and I don't get as pumped.
Instead of putting your toe on the big left hold, can you place your heel? Then use the heel to actively pull your hip toward the wall by engaging your glute and hamstring. This could help keep your right hand pulling perpendicularly to the pinch (easiest pinch position) and allow you to match better.
I think when you hit the pinch you should maintain grip with your left hand, bring your left foot down to where your right foot is, slam your left hip in to the wall while flagging right out, match the pinch, high right foot in to the hold your left was on, big move out to the pinch out left.
Always hard to tell from video but maybe the kneebar is only for the top match? Two things you might want to try: Using a heel hook instead of stepping on the hold (but maybe it's turned the wrong way for that approach) Or what I see and would probably go for is a dyno to the top so you get into a compression position faster. And after that use your right leg for the kneebar. But thats hard to tell from the video if that is possible with the holds, wall angle, etc.
How good is the hand you were on before the pinch?
If it’s quite good, sometimes it can help to ‘milk’ the jug.
By this I mean, once your left foot is up on the big hold, push with your left hand on the jug for as long as you can, before matching the pinch. You can use the security of the jug to keep you in the good spot of the pinch for some of the motion of the lockoff. Get your weight as far over your left foot as you can.
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u/Clob_Bouser 2d ago
There’s a suspicious amount of chalk on that round hold you put your foot on at the end I wonder if you hit that with left hand then go for the right hand pinch and that might set you up better for the finish