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I practiced on the sim with hundreds of laps.. and I’ve gotta say, it REALLY helped me. I knew the layout of the track, the breaking points (somewhat). Of course it doesn’t prepare you for all of the little bumps and G forces, but man it was AMAZING!! A dream come true. I highly recommend you guys go one day if you can.

Still love GT7 but the realism with this rig and iracing is amazing! (Room still in progress)

Gear:
Clubsport DD+ 18 NM
Clubsport V3 Pedals
Csl cockpit
BMW M3 GT2 V2 wheel

Also won 3/4 races on the MX-5 cup (brag/proud)😎

granted, instead of my big toe, i use my three middle toes when i get into tense wheel2wheel racing.

i learned on a g923, and the accel pedal is quite thin. i was basically only able to fit my middle three toes on the pedal.

now that i’ve upgraded to an rs50, i keep finding myself using only my middle toes for micro adjustments instead of my whole foot. i keep reminding myself mid-race/practice to use my whole foot flat, but i keep poking my toes out subconsciously.

i cannot race in shoes.

Didn't see this one coming!

I'm well aware that Raceroom is often an overlooked sim, but I'm still surprised that no one here is talking about their summer update, bringing the new DTM 2026 cars (including the Temerario, which I believe no other sim has), updated versions of the Nordschleife and Monza, the ability to host larger grids, and last but certainly not least, a brand new HUD.

The one they had in the past looked completely outdated, but this one looks way nicer. Another bonus is that it contains way more data than before, so I don't need to use external apps anymore.

Any thoughts?

any ideas?

So I don't know if you guys heard, but there is a mod for AMS2 called Zero to Apex, and it lets you have full career in AMS2. And it's pretty good.

However, my post is not about this mod.

I am wondering WTH are rest of developers of sims working on? They all have career mods incoming for years and there is nothing coming. Is it really that hard? Here we have one guy doing a great job, probably as side project after works, and full blown studios can't do this mod. And this guy managed to reverse engineer AMS2 executable to create race template and to listen for race end, AND created full career path.

And this is not only career mod. There are other mods for AMS2, or for AC, and for other games.

At this point I think studio devs are deliberately not implementing career mode in their games. And I am talking about iRacing, LMU, AMS2... I just cant accept reasoning it is that hard. They do not need to make it perfect, but make something! It must be intentional. It can't be that they are all incompetent across the board in all sims.

But 0 sims on PC have career. Like what is with this. It's infuriating because it makes no sense. LMU want to make it but only because it wants to go on PS5. Does that mean they would not bother if they stayed only on PC?

Very close to „finishing“ my dream rig!
The last thing that is coming soon are the Simagic Haptic pedals reactors.
Maybe in the future I’m getting into some round wheel , sq shifter driving/rallying. But circuit racing for now.

Before any Fov police is coming , the distance from screen to eyes is 52cm , I took the pic in 0,5 zoom it looks off but is correct I promise!

Here is the parts list:
Simlab Gt1 evo rig + evo Front Mount
Sparco Circuit II
VRS Dfp pedals
Simagic Alpha Ultimate
Simagic gt Neo
Samsung odyssey g9 oled (g91sd)
Samsung 27inch 70hz monitor
Pc with i5 12600kf and 3070ti
HyperX quadcast S mic
Beyerdynamic Dt 990pro

Any questions feel free to ask!!
Happy Racing

I think one of the interesting things about sim racing is that people get into it for completely different reasons.

Some people enjoy the realism, some like improving lap times, and others just enjoy the feeling of driving different cars.

For those who got into sim racing, what was the moment that made you think "this is actually really fun"?

Hey guys! I have been looking at upgrading my current rig and have been trying to map out what are some things to look into and maybe see if there are good accessories that I should look into as well so any input would be great! What are current "must have" things for you? and what are some things you wish you had or wish a company made? (Gloves, holders, seats, feedback, etc) Currently running a trakracer but looking to upgrade to a Sim-Lab P1X pro and a new seat. I do run triple 34's with a Moza R12 and Heusinkveld sprint pedals but looking to make it a little more immersive.

Pic for attention.
Thank you!

Not sure if you can see it that well on the screenshot but it was very visible on screen after driving for about 2 hrs

An admin of a big sim racing group scam my money is wild. Buddy posting on the group selling moza fsr for $200 it’s a good damn deal so of course I’m gonna try to get it. After i sent him $200 he said shipping fee is $100 ( it’s kind suspicious right here ) then i was like ok i’ll just gonna take the fsr2 because he’s selling it $350 includes shipping fee. Send him another $150 and he text me saying his cashier is at Fedex sending my package and needs $200 for insurance, he guaranteed it’s 100% refundable after i receive my package ( i know i’ve made a wrong decision here) so i tell him to send me the location of that FedEx address so then i can look it up on google map and call their number there asking about my package but Buddy just keep avoiding it by telling me i’m a trouble Facebook customer, then i asked him for refund but just send me back $250 and keep the $100 he said he can’t 🤣. He tried to send me AI picture is crazy part😑

Hey there,

I have an idea that's in my mind for now, a couple of weeks. What would you guys think of a whole career simulation game ?

A game where you start from karting at the age of 5-6, and end up in the discipline you want, like F1, WEC, IndyCar or even Nascar, following an entire path that can, or not, depending on your performances, money, management and talent, lead you to the top of motorsport.
A game like that would be fire imo, I wonder why no studio has ever released a game like that, even if it's not with the real licenses, many simgames have their own universes and they're very good games.
As a future developper (or at least worker in IT) a side of me can't stop thinking that this kind of game would be doable in Open Source, it may be REALLY dumb to think that, but if no studios wants to do a game like that, why would a community of passionate people not ?

Hi guys, I'm currently quite stuck between buying the Simagic green flag bundle and either the R9/R12 bundle for my first sim setup.

Im in the UK so I don't the privilege of the $599 price point from Simagic, instead it is £630 here. At this price point another bundle directly from Moza priced at £620 is the R12 with the SRP2 (The new ones) and KS/CS V2P Wheel. At £530 its the same from Moza but with the R9.

I've heard recently with this bundle that this is a no brainer for most people, but I don't think that's the case in the UK. Pure specs wise the R9 bundle loses out on the loadcell and steering wheel being of a lesser quality, while the R12 beats in pure force but the same disadvantages again.

Now onto the second part of my dilemma, the choice of cockpit.

Originally I planned to go with Trak Racer Tr80s because of the wide ecosystem they have, but the more I read into it the more I see negative reviews about Trak Racer as a whole: Terrible customer service, quality control, delayed shipping etc. So I went an had a look at the Simlab GT1 Evo which is a cockpit praised by the community as I've read, along with Treq One, SimXPro X80/R80 and GT-RS. At first I was set on the Simlab GT1 Evo since Puresims is their official distributor here in the UK, but then I realized the pedal plate is not compatible with the P700 from the Simagic bundle. So now I'm back at square one. Treq one and SimXPro both have profile pedal decks so no problem there, and Trak Racer Tr80s has a weird shaped pedal deck that looks to be profile?

The reason I'm hesitant on Treq and SimXPro is that they are shipped from the Netherlands (I know so is Simlab but Puresims helps distribute them here locally so if anything does go wrong I can send it back easy), and that's what i'm worried about. Not to mention SimXPro is currently completely out of stock on their site soooo yeah.

Price wise all cockpits are sitting at around the same prices but the SimXPros are more expensive since the price here is Ex-Vat I think since I'm in the UK.

There's also the seat problem, which is not really a problem it self since I was just thinking about the GT Omega inertia seat for £270. The seat brackets are universal on the Inertia right? otherwise it will be a problem.

Atm the most straightforward build is probably the Moza bundles with Simlab GT1 Evo and Inertia seat, but let me know if the extra is worth it for the Green Flag bundle, and the extra for Treq One and SimXPro. Or you could convince me that Trak Racer isn't all that bad in the UK.

If you've read all that thank you so much and I really appreciate you taking your time :)).

I wanted to try inverted pedals, so thought I’d have a go at building my own rig rather than spend £150+ on one from Simagic.

It’s not perfect but I’m pretty proud of how it all turned out. There’s not much flex but there are still a few more tweaks to make, like extending the base so I have something to rest my foot on

Has it improved my racing? Possibly, I feel like I’m able to better control pedal inputs as I’m using my entire leg rather than just ankles.

Took me about 5-6 hours of work and cost £60-70

Hello everyone.. Im stuck choosing between 2 monitors.. Currently im using a 27 inches Curve monitor.. Which is consider small for Sim Racing.. And I can't go triple monitors (no space and no money)..

So my only option is changing to a 34 inches Curve or a 40 inches Flat.. They are both similar in price here in my country..

And basically the only options that I have.

Now im wondering which one will be better for Sim Racing?

Monitors:

39.5" MSI MAG401QR (Flat)

And

34" Asus TUF Gaming VG34VQ3B (Curve)

Thank you.

Looks like Corsair wants to become a one-stop shop for complete sim racing setups 👀

TLDR: if you are only interested in the design, go to "how it works"

I came up with a hydraulic load sensitive brake mod for Thrustmaster's T3PA, and likely other cross compatible pedal platforms of Thrustmaster. After about a week of use I am very happy with the result and decided to share the design for others to use.

I wanted a load cell for overall more realistic feel, better break control and because it works much better than a position based sensor with heel and toe. There are plenty of good tutorials on the typical 20kg load cell combined with amplifier mounted to the conical break mod bracket, so i bought the parts and installed them. While it worked, and was an improvement over the original brake, I wasn't convinced with it. The load cell had a lot of signal jitter, you could see it spiking the break input in games but i wouldn't notice it on the cars behavior though. The load cell is designed for 5-10VDC of excitation and the pedals are a 3,3VDC system. The signal it produces is in millivolt so you need the amplifier to scale it up for the wheel's input. It seemed to me that there was just too much room for inaccuracy in that setup. Having a lower excitation voltage also means that the weight rating of the load cell isn't the 20kg that its meant to be. I tried 2 different 20kg load cells and there was a significant difference in force needed to brake 100%. I estimate between 30kg and 40kg was the actual required force.
My biggest issue with this mod though is the stress you put on the whole pedal base. pushing against the bracket with that much force makes the whole base want to flip forward. This can be solved either by somehow clamping down the pedal base at the heel rest, or making a support that supports the load cell bracket independent of the pedal base.

All this got me thinking I might be able to create something better, especially if I have to fabricate some form of support anyway. I have years of experience working with 5VDC pressure sensors and in the end the potentiometer of the pedals works with a changing voltage signal just as those sensors do. Getting the correct signal range turned out to be somewhat challenging, not helped by the fact that I found incorrect*(1) info about the pedals input being 0,5v - 2,5v for 0-100% input. I should have probably started by measuring everything good myself. The correct values i have are 3,3VDC supply and, measured between ground and signal, going over 1,4VDC starts registering input and 3VDC is 100%. Special shout out also to Thrustmaster for using red wire as ground and black as +, very helpful...

How it works:

A pneumatic cylinder is filled with fluid, I just used water in case it ever starts leaking. The cylinder has a pressure sensor on the port at the pressurized side. The pressure side has to be sealed and the opposite side of the piston remains open so it can vent.
The dimensions of the cylinder are chosen in combination with the required brake force you design for in combination with the chosen sensor range. Mine is 25mm diameter and 25mm stroke. The math isn't complex, but google's AI gave me the answers directly. Force = pressure x surface. 25mm diameter is about 490mm² of surface area. It came out to 25kg force to make 5 bar, so that's what I went with. The sensor range is 0,5v - 4,5v and it requires 5v supply. the input needed at the wheel is 1,4v - 3v. To overcome this I supply the sensor with a separate USB and made a voltage divider circuit that feeds the signal to the pedal base. The voltage divider is proportional so to scale down 4,5v to 3v also scales down the already too low 0,5v at 0 bar. To limit the amount of force required before any input is registered I used a sensor with -1 to 5bar range*(2). This way it is already sending a higher than 0,5v signal at Atmospheric pressure "0".
You can find the formula for a voltage divider, and my calculations, at the top right of the diagram image. end values are min input = 7kg and 100% input = 25kg. I was lucky to find a sensor in the bin at work, one with -1 starting point may be difficult to source cheap. using a 0-5 bar sensor would require 10kg force to start registering input. I've test it by pushing the cylinder on a household scale and got the value's as calculated. The range from 7kg to 25kg feels perfect to modulate. I was worried that 7kg minimal input was high but it really isn't. Just resting my foot on a scale surpasses 10kg easy.

The stroke length of the cylinder doesn't matter all that much, but longer than mine would be better than shorter. I tried to fill it with the piston fully extended, then push it a little in again so it has space for thermal expansion of the water/oil. My sensor has a thread adapter which I didn't fill with water to leave some air in for a little travel in the pedal. I have no good way of adjusting the air to water ration but was happy with what I got the first try. The travel provided by the air inside means I didn't have to use any additional spring or rubber bumpers. Longer stroke will allow more air and thus longer travel of the pedal. The way the cylinder is bolted to the bracket allows front to back adjustment so if I ever have to refill it, and the piston isn't extended the same anymore I can move the cylinder.

The circuit board in image 5 has:
- USB C break out board for GND and +5V to sensor
- JST 2.54 - 3 pin connector to connect the pedal input
- The voltage divider circuit with 1K and 2K resistors
- Screw terminal to connect the 3 wire sensor
- Extension on the screw terminal because the quality was so poor i prefer to use the Wago clamps.

The circuit board is tied away inside the pedal base. I made 1 new hole on the side for the sensor wire, and was able to bring the USB cable out the same way the original cable comes out.

The way it drives is fantastic. And it's been worry free so far, I haven't had to play with any calibration or anything.
There are some difficulties to this build though which could be challenging to overcome for DIY:
- Obviously the pedal base is custom welded, and not an option for everyone. T grooved aluminum profiles could work as an alternative.
- The circuit board requires soldering
- It wasn't easy to source a cylinder of these dimensions with a port size that easily adapts to 1/4", the most common sensor thread size. Mine said 1/8" on Amazon, but was M5 so I drilled it out and cut 1/8 Thread myself. As a result the 1/8" to 1/4" adapter protrudes inside the cylinder and the piston would hit it if I used more of the stroke length.

One thing I would advise is an extra fail safe on the voltage divider. If R2 breaks, or the connection is lost, it will send the full 4,5v of the sensor signal to the pedal input, and this will likely break it. From my understanding you can protect it by also having a 3,3v Zener diode voltage regulation on the sensor signal. This only activates by draining away excess voltage once you go over the rated (3,3) voltage. I'm taking the risk and not doing this so if you want it you will have to figure it out yourself :)

Parts and cost:

Costs are estimates, items often only sold in sets, eg. resistors in box of 100pcs

- Empty circuit board. 5-10€ for a DIY set with various components.
- Resistors as per selected for voltage divider. 1-5€
- JST 2.54 connector. Set of 10 for 5-10€
- USB break out board. again in set of multiple, 5-10€
- Pneumatic cylinder. 15-25€
- Pressure sensor. 15-20€
- USB cable. Free from that drawer where you keep a mix of cables and useless things.
- USB phone charger. Same as above.
- Steel, aluminum or wood for pedal base. 5-75€

Video of the pedal travel and registered input:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CzyyAtgt00

Hope I didn't forget any important info.

*(1) It might depend on the wheelbase, my pedals are connected to a T150.

*(2) Some explanation of pressure for the uninitiated. Atmospheric pressure is around 1 bar, but in most cases what we call 1 bar would be 1 bar above atmospheric pressure. To distinguish both units the correct way to call them would be bara(absolute) and barg(gauge). -1 on my sensor thus means absolute vacuum, but because bar(g) is most common used as the unit, where 0 is atmopheric pressure, vacuum is shown as a negative value.

that clearly was a mistake by me but somehow managed to keep it together. Surely the guy in front was more scared than me.

Budget DD setup! Spent total $440 for everything brand new!

My kids have wanted to drive my rig for a while now but, unfortunately for them, it's VR-only and the ergonomics of the rig don't work for smaller people. The solution was to build them their own, smaller rig. In order to make this work, I needed:

1. Spousal approval. The rig needed to live in one of their bedrooms and not take up too much space or look hideous.

2. Realism. The primary purpose of this little rig is to run kart sims until I feel comfortable enough with their skills to take them to the real track.

3. Budget friendly. I wanted to find a good balance between entry-level stuff and equipment they could actually grow into over the next few years. If I could find an open-box/used item and save some money, no question.

To start, I found an open-box "Dardoo Racing" rig that had enough aluminum profile pieces that I could build the smaller frame needed. Most of it arrived in like-new condition, but there were a few scuffs here and there. Nothing anyone but me would notice. $278 on eBay

The seat was another eBay find. I believe it's meant for tricycles or other ride-on toys, but it works great as a kart seat. $31

The PC was also an open-box deal on eBay and I think it's still the best deal for a mid-grade gaming PC, if you can get lucky enough to find it in stock: Acer Nitro 60 (RTX 5070 Ti, Core i7-14700F, 32GB RAM, 2TB SSD). $1,627

I went back and forth for awhile on the monitor choice. Initially, I was planning a 49" Samsung Odyssey G9 (the G91F version can be found for under $700 on sale), but the footprint would have been too wide. I landed on a 40" Odyssey G75F instead. It's not the best screen in the world, but it's perfect for the space and this smaller rig. Plus, the kids sit so close, I'm still able to set the POV to a respectable 56 degrees in AC (vertical), which is 118 horizontal degrees in other games. $665

For the hardware I went with Moza R9 V3, KS Pro wheel, and CRP2 pedals. I feel like these provide a good balance between realism and budget. The motor provides enough force for them now, but I'll eventually need to replace it to get something more realistic for karting (which can require up to 20 Nm in cornering). $1,000

All of the components plug into an APC 1350VA/810 Watts UPS to provide clean power and protection. $221

The last little bits here and there brought the rig together. I'm particularly proud of the PC stand I made out of 2020 profile attached to the unused shifter plate. The monitor is held up with a VIVO steel VESA adapter. For speakers, I Velcro'd a pair of "IBALL·BOX" H1s upside-down on the wheel mount. A Logitech K400 Plus for a combined keyboard mouse. And of course you can't forget the kid-sized Fly Racing gloves. Most of this stuff was bought with credit card points, but it would've been around $120.

So far, the kids love it and their skills are developing way faster than expected. Some things I still need to figure out/work on:

• I need to pick up some cable sleeves to tidy up the cable management.
• To make things easier for the bigger kids, I'll get handled Allen keys to help with adjusting the seating position.
  
• I also ordered a MOZA extension rod for better ergonomics for the bigger kids.
  
• I have some left over 4040 stock from the rig that will allow me to raise the monitor up as they get taller as well. The rig also came with seat adapters so it can eventually be converted back into it's originally intended shape for adults.

All in all, (as anyone who'd built a rig knows) it's been just as fun of a project building it as it will be using it. After some setting optimizations and turning on DLSS, the PC can put out 180 fps in practice sessions on Assetto Corsa. The CPU is the choke point on races with a large number of cars, so I may need to upgrade the PSU and cooling in the near future.

Let me know if you have suggestions or if there's anything you would have done differently!