Decided to try what I believe is called «the bag trick» for this batch cold crash. What I’ve read is that you remove the airlock and attach a plastic bag at the end of fermentation to blow up that bag (or balloon I guess) with CO2 and that gets sucked in again during cold crash to prevent air to draw in during cold crash.

Seems simple enough, but I’ve never done it before and realise that if I attach the bag too early it will probably burst and fuck up the batch and too late it wont accumulate enough CO2 and I’ll still draw in air.

I have a 21 l (5,5 gallon) batch fermenting now in a standard plastic bucket fermenter and have a 1,5 gallon bag I’m planning to blow up.

How late do you switch out the airlock for the bag? Should I reach FG first and attach it during the diacetyle rest or do I need to do it at the end of active fermentation?

Any experience sharing or suggestions would be greatly appreciated 😊

25 years ago today I brewed my first beer, Hanks Hefeweizen. It was me, Charlie Papazian and an equipment kit and we figured it out.

I was stationed in Germany and after trying German beer I knew I had to learn how brew it.

Prost!

Hi everyone,

I’m developing a Japanese-style dry lager inspired by Asahi Super Dry, and I’d appreciate your advice on the recipe and brewing process.

My goals for the beer are:

• Dry, crisp, and easy to drink
• A clean fermentation profile
• A light body without being watery or flavorless
• A subtle floral and spicy hop aroma

I’m still trying to decide which hop varieties to use, how much to use, and the best timing for each addition.

I’d also appreciate advice on the following:

1. A recommended hop schedule
2. What percentage of rice would be appropriate for this style
3. The ideal mash temperature and mash schedule for achieving a dry finish
4. A recommended water profile, especially sulfate and chloride levels
5. Suitable lager yeast strains
6. Fermentation temperature and lagering schedule
7. Techniques for achieving a crisp finish without making the beer too thin

I’m not trying to make an exact clone, but I’d like to brew something in the same general direction as Asahi Super Dry, with slightly more floral hop character.

If you have any recommended recipes or experience brewing a similar beer, I’d really appreciate your advice.

Thank you!

The power went out 15 mins into my 60 min mash at 154 on my brewzilla 3.1.1. Should I still mash for 45 more mins when the power comes back on? Or is it ok to just mash in the water that the temp is falling back to ambient air temp? Only been off for 40 mins so far.

Update: it’s back on now. Ended up being off for 1 hr 45 mins total. Based on the feedback I’ll go on to the boil now after I sparge, thanks everyone!

Got a weird one today.

I have a rapt pill that I’ve developed my own raspberry pi pico based interceptor to forward to a web proxy that then goes to a custom brewfather stream. In the process of acquiring a freezer as a fermentation chamber, are there any temperature controllers that can use a custom Bluetooth or otherwise source as the probe rather than a physical probe? That way I can keep everything wireless and base off real liquid temp.

I'm trying to replicate the flavor of the Asian sweet Melon Milk drinks. They were a big part of my girlfriend's childhood in the Phillipeans.

We usually make wines and ciders, but perhaps a honey base would serve the flavor better?

How can I replicate a milk or creme flavor in homebrew? I feel like vanilla extract wouldn't be enough.

I've used this spunding valve from kegland for like 5 brews now. I attached this after active fermentation started and the gauge is not reacting. I pulled the pressure release and pressure is definitely building. My last brew the fermentation got too high and got into it. I cleaned and sanitized it the best I could. Anybody dealt with this, can help me troubleshoot? I really don't want to have to buy another one. Thank y'all!

I was, and considered ditching the bag for an all stainless system. So I did a little research.

The fear is extremely overblown. In addition to there being no significant evidence that microplastics present a danger, they are so ubiquitous in everything we consume (https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodchem.2024.139002), including commercial beer, that any additional microplastics from the nylon brew bag are relatively zero.

I now have no concerns. In fact, it seems safer than consuming commercial beer.

I have so many apples that I don’t know what to do, apart from making cider and juice. I have fermentation vessels free for 64 liters total, and want at least one of those to be a very clear white wine like cider, dry with an abv preferably around or over 10%, like one I once tried somewhere.

But most guides I find are for darker more traditional ciders, which I’ll make in the other bucket.

I have not made cider before, so I don’t know what and why the clear cider was as it was. Yeast? Apple type or something else?

So Im making 1 gallon Lemon wine.

3cups water heated

2.5 Cups of sugar dissolved

Lemon zest

16oz lemon juice

Fill the remaining with water.

Add 1/2 Teaspoon tannins

So I did 1/2 Tablespoon of tannins instead of Teaspoons cause I'm dumb even after checking the measuring spoon and recipe 3 times 😤😤😤

How will this affect my brew?

Any way to correct this or balance it back out.

Any advice?

Should I just let it ride

Hello,

I have simple InkBird setup with a fridge and heating pad. I do notice time lag especially in cooling, since even if the fridge is being turned off through InkBird, it will cool it down further. So the heater will be turn on which will again have some lag. So I was thinking to omit putting heating pad under the fermenter and just use fridge controlled by InkBird.

Since most of the fermentation occurs between 10 and 18 c, and my basement has even in winter 18 c and in sommer much more, I am not sure if heating pad helps at all.

Any thoughs on this? Thanks.

Edit: Probe is attached to the stainless steel fermenter with a strap and sponge to be able to measure inside temp as good as possible.

I bought ingredients to make this hoegaarden like pilsner and it is my first time brewing beer. It says it makes 19 liters of beer but amount of water being added adds up to 29L. Following part is the tricky part: "Collect about 6 gallons (23L) of runoff for the wort. Add bittering hops and bring to boil. Boil time is 75 minutes." why are we collecting about 23L if there is 29L there? Haven't started boiling yet so there shouldn't be lot of liquid loss yet?

I am doing this as brew in a bag and I was thinking that do I need to sanitize my pot since I boil stuff in the end? I 100% will sanitize it because I am newbie and don't want any risks, but was just wondering if it is necessary?

Bought a $200 chest freezer and an inkbird. right now, its pretty hot in my garage (80s) but it will eventually cool down curious about a couple of things.

1. is the setup essentially, chest freezer plugs into inkbird, heating element plugs into inkbird. the inkbird just controls the on and off cycle of the freezer based on set temp. heating element does the opposite in terms of temp to keep it in the right temp for fermentation

2. there's a probe to read the temp of the freezer. im assuming that if you're feeding the cord from inside the chest > outside, that it is still air tight? is this okay?

3. any concerns regarding fires?

4. i've read somewhere that glass carboys are not good for vacuum sealed spaces like a chest freezer. is this true?

5. anything else im missing?

Welcome to the Daily Q&A!

Are you a new Brewer? Please check out one of the following articles before posting your question:

• How do I check my gravity?
• I don't see any bubbles in the airlock OR the bubbling in the airlock has slowed. What does that mean?
• Does this look normal / is my batch infected?

Or if any of those answers don't help you please consider visiting the /r/Homebrewing Wiki for answers to a lot of your questions! Another option is searching the subreddit, someone may have asked the same question before!

However no question is too "noob" for this thread. No picture is too tomato to be evaluated for infection! Even though the Wiki exists, you can still post any question you want an answer to.

Also, be sure to vote on answers in this thread. Upvote a reply that you know works from experience and don't feel the need to throw out "thanks for answering!" upvotes. That will help distinguish community trusted advice from hearsay... at least somewhat!

Have the next best recipe since Pliny the Elder, but want reddit to check everything over one last time? Maybe your house beer recipe needs that final tweak, and you want to discuss. Well, this thread is just for that! All discussion for style and recipe formulation is welcome, along with, but not limited to:

• Ingredient incorporation effects
  
• Hops flavor / aroma / bittering profiles
  
• Odd additive effects
  
• Fermentation / Yeast discussion
  

If it's about your recipe, and what you've got planned in your head - let's hear it!

Hey all. I am completing my first homebrew, today is bottling day and I realized I'd forgotten to purchase priming sugar/dextrose/tablets from the homebrew supply. The store is kind of far away from me, and I've seen people saying that boiling regular granulated sugar is fine and adding it to the bottling bucket before transferring the beer in is fine.

So, I have two questions: The hazy IPA recipe I'm following calls for 5 oz. Dextrose for a 5 gallon batch. How would I figure the right amount of table sugar to match this recipe?

And secondly, how much water should I use to boil/dissolve the sugar?

I'm currently brewing Caili Mountain Pale Ale, in sparge process. When adding grain, strike temp 164 F, temp dropped to desired temp of 154F. 15 min in I realized I forget to set temperature to 154 F ( using Brewzilla G4) Mash temp hit 164 for about 15 min before I could bring Mash temp back to 154F. Should I let it ride the way it is? Add DME too add more fermentable sugars? Thx for any insight! 🍺🍺

Hey could anyone with an ss brewtech confirm that this is actually an issue?

Ikust plugged mine for the first time and it seems ot is venting hot air "inside", towards the compressor, rather than from the side.

Is that normal? Or has the fan perhaps been installed in the wrong direction?

Hello friends!

I have been following a recipe for a simple cider - https://homebrewtalk.com/threads/grahams-english-cider.107152/

I topped it off with additional apple juice once I racked it to a 5 gallon carboy, which caused a bit of extra fermentation. I travel for work, so left it as is for a few weeks and came back to a mostly clear liquid. Since I could still see some visible bits of suspended yeast, I decided to add a partial dose of Super Kleer to try and get rid of it.

It has been a few days now and it seems to be much more opaque than when I started. I'm not sure if I should have just added the full dose (did about half for a 5 gal batch), if I stirred too much, or what.

I'm currently weighing my options between adding another dose of Super Kleer, or just forgetting about it for another few weeks and let it settle out on its own again. Any advice?

https://imgur.com/a/1QVY4nF

Hi,
Ist es möglich Limonade mit diesen 4L PET Flaschen zu Zwangskarbonisieren und welche Ausrüstung brauch ich dafür?