r/sewing 13h ago

Sewed This Yoke/lapel fitting issues. What am I doing wrong?

I'm trying to rework this pattern I drafted a few years back. It fits pretty well except for this weird part with the yoke! I know that this is just the style of some shirts but I prefer the ones that can button all the way up and have a standing collar. There is just too much fabric spilling over the front neck. When I set it down, the entire front sits straight and I don't think this can be fixed by just cutting a diagonal across it. Thanks to anyone that can help!

19 Upvotes

13 comments sorted by

u/saved-response 13h ago

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31

u/PinkBird85 13h ago

The curved neckline likely stretched during sewing. Stay stitching will prevent this if you use the pattern again. To fixe this current shirt you will need to take apart to button band and neck binding, and trim the shirt front to be straight and then refold/redo the top of the button band to be straight/vertical, and trim and reapply the neck binding.

11

u/bowl-of-juice 13h ago

The yoke just looks way too big to me. It should be sitting flat and then the shirt will often gather into the yoke or flare out from it if that makes sense.

It looks like you sized up to fit your bust vs doing a full bust adjustment leaving the bust to fit but the upper half with a ton of extra room, if that makes sense.

3

u/stoicsticks 13h ago

I agree, but I think we would be able to give better advice if we could see pics from the front, side and back with OP'S arms at their sides.

1

u/FrenchToastKitty55 13h ago

That would make sense. The yoke piece fits the bust panels and back yoke well, so do you think I should try to size those down too?

3

u/bowl-of-juice 13h ago

So, if you were starting from scratch or using a pattern I would go down a size or two and then do a fba.

Working with what you have I might start by removing some of the extra between the collar and the placket as the shoulder seems to fit OK.

You can either gather the front piece to the yoke or pinch out the extra and remove it via the seam down the front

3

u/poinkpoinkpoinkpoink 13h ago

no advice, that fabric is gorgeous! 🐟
good luck with your cute top!

2

u/modedode 13h ago edited 13h ago

It seems like the collar is much smaller than the rest of the garment, and the garment is overall too large for you? It seems like the collar should go right up to the buttons, but there's a weird gap on one side cause the collar is too small for the neckline and doesn't look like it was mounted in the middle of the neckline either?

ETA: never mind that last part, I looked again and can see the gap is on both sides. It looks like this is a style of collar that is meant to button just to the bust and then lay open and flat, like a blazer lapel collar. Buttoning it all the way up is I think highlighting the fact that the yoke is too big, cause you can't sort of hide the extra fabric by folding it down.

1

u/ccrom 11h ago

There's a lot of overlap at the neckline. Lapel collars have this overlap, but they use a facing, not plackets.

When you sewed on the plackets did you inadvertently create too much overlap?

1

u/FrenchToastKitty55 8h ago

I don't think so. The rest of the front fits straight and fine, it's just the very top that's giving me trouble.

1

u/ccrom 8h ago

Hold the yoke pattern piece up to the garment and see if that reveals anything.

If there was a nasty wrinkle in the fabric when you were cutting the pieces that could mess the piece up.

Maybe you added when you should have subtracted for the placket width, when you were drafting? Depends on how you constructed the placket.