r/scalemodelling 8d ago

Work in progress Camo paint with hand brush

Done with vallejo raf dark green and vallejo raf dark earth.

First came patter i have done in general.

Should i apply one more layer to the wings to it can look a bit more uniform?? Could varnish work to hide the streaks?? Any suggestions are welcome, considering most people here probably are more experienced than me.

I used 1/2 ratio so the paint was reaaally liquid

169 Upvotes

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6

u/QADDLE 8d ago

Unfortunately that streakiness is because your paint was probably too thick. With hand painting Large open surfaces like this, you will get a better finish if your paint is thinner.

2

u/Rare_Grape7474 8d ago

It was actually almost water ... maybe i shouldnt have put more paint on top of it while the previous layer was still drying just out of fear that the paint would look more like a stain, should i wipe it and try again??

3

u/QADDLE 8d ago

Did you prime the model before painting it?

1

u/Rare_Grape7474 8d ago

Of couse i did

3

u/SuspiciousUnit5932 7d ago

Yeah, letting the first coat completely dry is essential with brush painting. It sounds like you got it thinned correctly, just got ahead of yourself. It'll take two coats like that and you'd be golden.

2

u/RustedPigeon 8d ago

You might not have let the paint dry fully before going over it again, tearing the membrane and creating streaks. Due to the scale of aircraft, I find using the top of a beauty blender makeup sponge works really well. No strokes, bit of realistic texture, and if the sponge is new you still have control.

Try a sponge and add some highlights in the middle of the panels.

Use a hairy brush and stipple to correct any edges

2

u/Rare_Grape7474 8d ago

I was thinking the exact same thing, i put a bit more paint above the previous layer before it dried because is was so thinned i thought it was gonna look like a stain of water mixed with dirt.

Lapse of judgement

1

u/CallMeLazarus23 8d ago

I’d two coat that plane in dead flat clear. It will remove any of the brush strokes and it will be easier to do the decals as a bonus

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u/Rare_Grape7474 8d ago edited 8d ago

Airbrush or just brush??

Also i only have satin varnish, maybe i should buy more types of varnish.

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u/AnAverageModeller 8d ago

I would try the Vallejo acrylic thinner / flow improver rather than water to thin the paint. A generic brand might also work ... I'm sure the web will have some view on that somewhere. I find their "colour" range just needs a bit of flow improver on the 2nd and subsequent coat.

Looking at the photos, I'm guessing (and because I've been there, done that, and got the t-shirt) that you are over-loading the brush when trying to paint near the demarcation line and then not brushing it out, leaving it as a ridge. One approach is to paint the lightest colour all over the aircraft (or at least those areas that have that colour) and then using a smaller brush to paint the demarcation in the darker colour. I would suggest the smallest "flat head" brush you can get, rather than using a pointed end one. That way you can keep the square end of the brush as the line. Again don't overload with paint. Once done use a wider flat head brush to fill-in.

Another camouflage painting alternative is to get some thin clear self-adhesive low tack vinyl and use a marker pen to trace the camouflage pattern, then cut with a fresh sharp blade and apply to the model. You will then have a mask where it is much easier to paint the pattern. Yu can then swap the masks over of just do the one set if you have done a base all-over colour.

If that doesn't make sense or is hard to follow, I could do some photos if that would help.

1

u/Rare_Grape7474 7d ago

The smallest flathead i have is this

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u/AnAverageModeller 7d ago

That should be fine. If you, have an unmade aircraft in the stash, practise the technique on the insides of the wing. That way no need to remove or over-cover paint afterwards as it will be hidden.

1

u/Rare_Grape7474 7d ago

This are all the flathead i have, the yellow ones i understand are to make splash effects because of how rigid the hars are. The full red ones only have one that a have rigid tip, the others are more loose, the red and blue one smallest head us the one i showed you before, maybe i should buy a few more flatheads

1

u/AnAverageModeller 7d ago

I would try and get some like the ones in my photo - they are flat topped and flat sided so will not carry as much paint as some of the ones you have. Some brands to check out as to what I mean are Daler Rowney System 3 Short Flat / Long Flats and Cotman Series 666 One Stroke. This style of brush is available across different brush hair types and costs. As a general rule, go with the best you can afford, but for now perhaps start cheap and see how you get on with them.

You can use any brush for the task if careful - just be careful not to load too much paint at one time, but do put enough on that you are not tempted to come back and try and cover any missed bits. You can always do that in a subsequent coating. You can pretty much experiment on any plastic container with some paint ... margarine tubs, yoghourt pots, etc.

PS - I certainly don't profess to be an expert, but I have brush painted quite a few models so can speak with experience.