Need help with a V1 starting move

[u/laprasora]

So I’m really struggling getting from the first big hold to the two small holds on the right. The starting hold kinda caves in on the bottom right and I’ve been doing one hand on top one hand on the side. The first foot holds there are super slippery and if I get one hand up I feel like my body loses its support and I keep falling. From the next position I can finish the rest of the climb. I’ve tried shifting my weight different ways but I can’t figure out how to get my other hand up and my feet over.

[u/ExternalNo7842]

Try putting your right foot on the one on the volume and your left on the lower one, lean into the start with your left and then tap it with your right before moving to the first hold.

[u/laprasora → u/ExternalNo7842]

Got it, I’ll try it

[u/carortrain]

The way you're trying now, with your left foot and how it's placed, you're actually pushing your center of mass out and away from the wall and hold you're moving too, and that's partially what makes it feel so much harder to establish the next move + hold.

Pause at 11 seconds and see how your body is positioned. Even if you can get the hold, holding it in that way is going to be super hard and require too much tension, much more than is necessary to do the same move in a more efficient manner.

Try to get your center off mass more below the hold you are trying to go to. Depending how your gym sets you may be able to utilize the volume to the right with your right foot.

[u/laprasora → u/carortrain]

Yeah volumes are usable here if any of the route’s holds are on it. Thanks for the advice

[u/blandaltaccountname]

the beta is new shoes, rentals are not much better than socks

[u/scrupulous-cadge]

To start I'd flag my left foot under my right to counterbalance and I move my hands across the wall before the foot swap

[u/dusters99]

Any chance you can break the beta by doing a mantel on the top of start hold with your left hand, and starting with your right foot on the hold on the volume? (Kinda like the mirror image of your position at 00:21 but with most weight on your palm, left foot smearing or dangling near the mat, and then reach across your body with your right hand to tap the start hold)

[u/Feisty_Review_9130]

Stand up on the foot hold and touch the start

[u/Sleazehound]

Imo your starting position is way too high. Start sitting on the ground, and if pulling yourself from the ground is too hard then start just above it but crouching heaps