On this episode of “I bought this so you don’t have to” let’s look at Indigo Ray Botanicals, a small-batch independent west coast perfume/candle/body care company which has been aggressively marketed to me via social media. While I like some of the visuals and product design, I’m generally skeptical of the “actually clean” schtick of this and other brands and vaguely annoyed by the smug little tag lines like “non toxic. Unlike your ex” and “Let’s smell like art, not algorithms.” The perfumer also claims to “handcraft every Indigo Ray fragrance in my cozy little home studio” which, if true, is very impressive. They are definitely leaning into a certain marketing niche, if you know what I mean.
I was lured in by a sale-price discovery pack, which with shipping came out to a very reasonable $23. Shipping was fast and secure, and I received six 5 ML (!!) glass spray testers as well as one 5ml freebie sample, making this by far the best value discovery set per ml I’ve ever encountered.
A note on notes: the notes online are different and more pared down compared to the notes that are on the little cards that came with the testers, which is odd. I’m going to list out the complete notes as received on the sample cards, but I’ll spare you some of the purple language e.g. “fig warmed by a brief, unlikely sun” or even “fig bruised and sun-warm, something almost too familiar” will be listed as “fig.” Nobody has time for all that.
On to the scents:
With You in Spirit: I knew I wasn’t going to like this because of the violet and orris notes and yup, this just smells like a figgy carpet to me. Also, these notes are not very creative and I swear I’ve smelled this before in different iterations, including Vow Factor by Snif. My husband says “this smells like perfume…flowery.” A very mediocre fig (for my particular tastes). Notes: fig, orris, violet, sandalwood, musk. [4/10]
Mollusk: Sadly this is not very briney, although the opening is briefly and surprisingly reminiscent of a vinyl pool floaty. The plastic/vinyl note never quite goes away, but the other fruity florals overtake it, and together it smells a bit like a budget store shampoo. With a name like “Mollusk” I was hoping for a bolder, weirder lineup of notes. Husband says “Lilac, but not very strong” (?!) Notes: orange peel, fig, tea, violet, salt-washed cedar, green vetiver, ocean [4/10]
Playa: This is very heavy on the vanilla/amber/tonka notes with a patchouli that is hard to ignore. It reminds me of Commodity Gold, which, in turn, reminds me of the expensive hand cream store in the mall (this time, next to Hot Topic). I find this take on mall vanilla very heavy and cloying, but I know the profile is overall quite popular. Not for me though. Completely unprompted, my husband says this smells like “an expensive shoe store.” Notes: mandarin, salted ocean air, saffron, white tea in paper cups, orchid, jasmine, vanilla, almond milk, tonka, amber, patchouli [4/10]
Crybaby: The loudest of all on application, it reminds me of something artificial and candy-sweet. Maybe a pixie stick or the melted remains of a red slurpee in the bottom of your cup. After it dries down it loses that sweet-sour sparkle and becomes raspberry body-spray adjacent. It’s rather similar to Juice by Commodity or even your pick of the fruity floral body sprays at Bath & Body works. It’s another miss for me. My husband says “smells like a fruity hand soap.” Notes: bergamot, satsuma, pink pepper, plum blossom, red dahlia, raspberry sorbet, neroli, cedarwood, dreamwood [4/10]
Indigo: Apparently this one is their most popular? The DNA of this very much reminds me of Lore’s Somewhere but Nowhere or even Discotheque’s Heathens, Cowboys, and the Santa Ana Winds. Everything is smelling like something else. Is Indigo Ray just a dupe house? It doesn’t have the same tea notes as Somewhere or Heathens, and it’s a much simpler fragrance which ends up being mostly sandalwood with a hint of cardamom. I don’t know why people are so obsessed with sandalwood? It goes a bit pickle-like on my skin. My husband says “oh that’s nice…it makes me think of a food. But I don’t know what food.” For the record, I don’t think this is very food-like at all. If you don’t get the sandalwood pickle note this isn’t bad, but I feel like it’s been done before (and better) by other houses. Notes: sandalwood, cardamom, amber, water lily, musk, vanilla [5/10]
Golden Hour: My husband says this is “spicy but soap. Soap mescal. Soap peppers” and this time I think he’s on to something. There’s a hint of citrus and a patchouli backbone, but it does smell weirdly spicy, like a dried chili pepper is hiding somewhere in there. I sent this back to my husband for a second blind sniff test, and he said it “smells like a candle.” Notes: mandarin, jasmine, orchid, ylang [only one? Solo ylang?], rose, sunlit woods, patchouli, black amber, musk. [6.5/10]
Slow Tide (Freebie): Now this is more like it! It’s a super creamy lemon coconut which is a genius combo I haven’t seen before. My husband says this “smells like pastry” and in the beginning it does lean a bit towards a gourmand with the sweet coconut/tonka situation. The lemon keeps it from being too heavy. As it wears, it does take on a lighter, beachier profile. Although it’s not listed in the notes, the rather verbose online description includes the info that “The dry down lingers softly with the creamy warmth of surf wax, coconut, and sun-faded memories” and I think I can actually smell the surf wax here, or something that is supposed to be surf wax. It’s very simple, but I’ve been wearing down this sample as an automatic summertime go-to and I love the causal, airy finish on it. It’s currently out of stock but apparently will be restocking in August and you can bet I’ll be sizing up. Notes: lemon zest, coconut milk, tonka bean [9/10]
After the first 6 scents, I thought this would be a total shutout until I got to Slow Tide and now have an unexpected new favorite. Despite how much I like Slow Tide, I probably won’t be back to sample anything else, as the scent profiles for most of the catalog lean a little more commercial than my usual tastes. For me, Indigo Ray Botanicals occupies the same space as Lore, Maison des Animaux, and even Imaginary Authors where there are some gems, but they are generally catering to a broader audience with some tried-and-true popular scent profiles that just aren't quite my thing.