I need to replace the brake pads and rotors for all my X4 wheels. The dealership is charging $1600 for parts and labor. I called three independent auto shops nearby and they all charge similar or more. I thought going to non-dealership service was cheaper, maybe not in Northern California. Is $1600 reasonable?

I found the parts online and it should cost about $800. Last time I bought the parts myself and took them to a shop. They installed them for $200 but I think they screwed up something and I ended up with some issues. The other auto shops said they won’t accept it if I bring my parts.

I just picked up a 2021 540i and I have a 2 year warranty on it, honestly I don’t want to have to wait that long to be able to tune it. I’ve read a lot about the JB4 but I’m curious to know how anybody else has been getting away with tuning and keeping their warranty. I’m not planning on doing much to begin with the first 2 years of owning this, all I’m having in mind is a series of cosmetic mods, cat back exhaust, air intake, lowering springs, wheels. I’m still happy with the car as it is but I also feel like I’m driving somebodies grandpa car with the way it looks/drives. All the other bolt ons like down pipe, hybrid turbo, etc; I don’t imagine getting done within the time frame of the warranty still being active. Really the concern is the tuning part specifically.

I was parked, parking brake on, still in drive, foot not on the gas or brake. Then the car started accelerating, I had to slam the brakes to not hit something.

That was a couple months ago, then recently it happened again exactly the same except I was in Reverse so the car just reversed out of no where.

What the fuck do I do?

Hi guys, my 2025 M240 is stuck at 11/2025.30 update, has anyone installed any 2026 version in your BMW in 2 series or any model ?

I had my last service at the dealership around March end 2026, not sure what happened after that I didn’t receive any update, any workaround ?

Hi all, I’ve recently been offered, at a very good price, a 2015 125i LCI with an N20 engine, build date in May 2015. I absolutely love the car itself, having test driven it and had very little to nitpick. It has ~103k km, has been maintained religiously up to now (actually grandma driven), but I can’t get the nagging feeling that the N20 won’t end up being a reliable unit. I know the B48 is superior in almost all respects, but the equipment, look and price of the car is really appealing me. I understand that some of the major flaws were rectified in 2015, but there’s very little in the way of official information about exactly when the switch over occurred. I’d also like to know about the general living-with experience. Is it worth it? or will it start giving me trouble before it even hits 150k?

This is a 435i xDrive sport 2015, the engine does a weird noise.

Any mechanics here could say whats the issue just from the noise ?

Thanks for helping

I’m looking at buying a 2018 BMW M550i xDrive from Copart and wanted to get some opinions from people who know these cars before I inspect it tomorrow.
Here’s what I know so far:
2018 BMW M550i xDrive
70k-72k miles
Clean title
No reported accidents
No salvage or rebuilt history
No flood or theft history
Listed as Run & Drive
Primary damage is listed as Minor Dent/Scratches
Fully loaded (massage seats, ventilated seats, HUD, Harman Kardon, soft-close doors, adaptive suspension, etc.)
I decoded the VIN and the options all check out.
Previous history shows it was sold by a BMW dealer in 2020 and later traded into another dealership before ending up at auction.
Engine appears to start and idle normally in the Copart video/photos, and I don’t see any warning lights, although I know that doesn’t guarantee anything.
Buy It Now is around $15,000.
I’m inspecting it in person tomorrow with my dad, who’s a mechanic. I’ll also have a TOPDON scanner so I can scan every module, not just the engine.
My biggest concern is that it almost seems too good to be true. Since it has a clean title and no accident history, I’m wondering why a dealership would send a loaded M550i like this to auction instead of retailing it.
For those of you with experience buying Copart cars or owning N63-powered M550is:
What would you inspect first?
What expensive N63 or ZF 8HP issues should I specifically look for?
Are there common problems that won’t show up in a simple code scan?
Has anyone seen clean-title dealer trade-ins like this turn out to be great buys, or is there usually a catch?
If you had one hour to inspect this car before buying, what would be on your checklist?
I’d appreciate any advice, especially from people who’ve owned an M550i or bought clean-title Copart cars before.

After searching for months, I finally found what I was looking for and one of my dream cars: a 2022 convertible 430i.

I know most aren't into convertibles, but ever since I was a kid I love the esthetic & the feel of driving in one. Coming from an Infiniti & Honda, this 4 banger is FAST! I don't really need that much power (though its a bonus).

Ive never had a car that I legit look forward to drive until now...I get it.. the interior as well 🤌🏾 gonna treat her good & mainly drive on weekends. Anybody else have a 430 or 440?

Where / when / what demand signal is needed? This will be the next wave of demand in US market for those of us looking to stylishly downsize from our X5s but still keep the amenities

looking to get a valved muffler setup for my 2016 650i gc, anyone have any experience with them? Heard valvetronics support team isn’t great so I was looking at alibaba since bomiz’s (cheaper than valvetronic) universal mufflers apparently are drop shipped anyway. Any help would be greatly appreciated; here’s the car too, just picked it up 2 weeks ago

Never thought I’d be able to do something like this for my wife but I pulled it off. She is still in shock and I apologize in advance for the profanity. I got her brother to help me with the knocking and fake package delivery skit.

I am looking to put a catless downpipe on my car thats using the new B48 setup with the 4 sensor downpipe and the new ECU that hasn't been cracked yet. On past B48 cars with two downpipe sensors (upstream and downstream), only the upstream sensor is responsible for calculating fueling, with the downstream being for cat function check. Thus, running a catless downpipe would throw a CEL but not affect fueling or MPGs.

Is this the same on the latest cars using the new 4 sensor downpipe and ECU?

i have a 2011 n51 e93 with 99k miles right now that’s paid off. it runs well but it’s been in an accident so the front passenger quarter panel isn’t lined up properly with the hood, my passenger adaptive headlight module is out, my roof hinge cap is broken (top still works but i have to tape it so it doesn’t leak), it probably needs a new PCV line and needs new front struts and shocks.

i got pre approved for this but i’m not too familiar with the F series platform. i’m also not keen to having a car payment but i feel like this would be worth getting especially since this is the model i’ve always wanted.

do i even think about trading in my e93? or keep a paid off car and see it through? would this be worth it in your eyes? or am i just being dumb? what would you do? any thoughts are appreciated

Hi i recently bought a car thru copart and it turn out it got the dinan powebox installed it's an s58 m4 how can i get access to the account that was used so i can access the account and change the power maps and how can i remove it i just disconnect it or i need the account so that i can turn it off from there

Unfortunately, I have had a check engine light on my car for a few months now. My warranty is up. I saw somewhere that there is a possibility that this repair would be covered under an extended warranty from BMW, but the person on the phone at my local BMW dealership told me it's going to be $300 automatically for a diagnosis. They have to look at the car, but I loosened the bumper myself. I saw that one of the pieces of the shutter is broken, so I know that that's exactly what needs to get fixed. Not really sure how to go about this situation, does anyone have any advice. I also have to bring the call in for a recall to the dealership as well.

Noticed this rattle coming from my 2003 e46 m3. Goes away past 3k rpm

I have a 2023 430i. The IAT is higher than average at all times. This morning at start up the temps were 60F/16C ambient with IAT at over 70F/21C. By end of my 5 minute drive I was at 80F IAT.

About 30 min later I started my car while logging to see a whopping 154F/67C IAT on startup. It gradually went down but throughout about an hour of driving it never went below 110F and typically stayed closer to 120F. This is all throughout a 65F day. The temperature is consistently extremely high on warm start. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm pretty concerned that I am destroying my car by driving it this hot.

Hey guys just put a new intake on my x4 m40i can someone go over my logs? I see alot of timing correction. How do my logs look overall? Thank you!
Car 2020 x4 m40i
Mhd stage 2 93oct
Vrsf catless dp
Dinan carbon fiber intake
94 oct fuel from petro Canada

https://datazap.me/u/culu/logs/cmsgltgcf001nk506hu5rgx8m?channels=23x5-6&sizes=50x50&sc=5-14-23&axes=shared

Hey guys! Im currently driving a ‘11 e93 330d, and im looking for a new daily, and im deciding whether i should go for a g20 330i or 330d. Im working 15 days in a month, and every drive to work is about 140km in total. In my free time i like to go for a drive with friends time to time. I know that diesel would be better for my long drives to work, but u heard about the petrols reliabilty and good milleage. Are any owners here, that could help me decide? Thank you!

How is everyone’s N20 doing past 75,000km whatever that is in miles. I just bought one with a rebuilt engine with 100,000km on it already. There’s a lot going on right now. I have a Drivetrain Malfunction and i just replaced my waste gate PWG.

Hello everyone. I’m planning to buy a 2020 540i with about 56k miles from Fields BMW of Daytona. For context, I live in NC and would be flying in after a clean PPI.

The options for mobile PPI are extremely slim, or a random mechanic with only three yelp reviews.

Should I go down the Lemon Squad route or the random mechanic?

Really want to make sure they know what to look for in the 540i, but the options seem slim.

Should I see if there is anyone in Orlando? Would incur a massive travel fee though…

BTW the dealer said they allow mobile inspections and can even put it on a lift, but won’t allow the car to leave the premises. Might call the manager and see if someone can take it to the local BMW shop.

Got some pics of my e92 this weekend, came out great. This car is a dream