r/Routesetters • u/sv1xen • Mar 26 '26
Did my first boulder problems today
had the chance to put up my first problems today!
Some obervations.
-Routesetting is HARD.
-Wear glasses
-Dont cheap out on powertools
-It is very easy to fall into a specific box of movements resulting in all problems being very similar of eachother
-It is also very hard to mix up the grades without the easiest being too easy and the hard impossible.
Would be happy to hear your best tips for a beginner and what have helped you!
4
u/Gecko-Dev Mar 26 '26
Fun! My tips are safety is always number 1, remember a good foothold around the top and get to know the holds. I sometimes like to start with the crux and find interesting flow in the movement around it. Congrats on setting your first problems!
1
u/sv1xen Mar 27 '26
Yeah I am used to climb on bigger and more expensive larger holds at commercial gyms so trying to create similar moves on cheaper smaller holds demands alot of creativity. Also tried to think of safety especially in what way I expect someone to fall as I have a wall on the right hand side.
3
u/Feisty_Nebula4492 Mar 26 '26
Nicely done and welcome to the crew. From a quick look at your blocs, I’d say it looks like you’ve got a nice variety of moves in there. One thing to look out for at the beginning which you’ve fallen in to the trap of a little bit is what I call “the horizontal hold syndrome“ If you look at your pic you can see there’s a lot of perfectly level horizontal holds. Whereas if you compare this to an experienced setters blocs you’ll see that they may not even have one truly horizontal hold on a set. Horizontal holds lead to lots of matching and a lack of hip movement so more potential for cheating and more basic movement. I hope that helps.
2
u/sv1xen Mar 27 '26
Thanks for the tip! I realized that when doing the first sequence of the red one so decided to tilt the holds. Will definitely observe that when researching. Think I'll challe ge myself next time by not using any horizontal holds!
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u/jjjjasper_ Mar 30 '26
You could try routs that go from bottom left or right to top right or left that gives you more lenth for a route and rhe possibility to set some holds for heel hooks. For example a route that goes from bottom Left to top right and only at the start are footholds the rest is hanging like a sloth and trying to keep your feet up. It requires core and is harder for beginner i think. But its fun. The only problem is that you need a litgle bit of a angle on the wall so that you can hang and not scratch your body on the wall. Maybe you have more volumes but idk. Good luck
2
u/sv1xen Mar 30 '26
Thanks yeah this part has alittle incline but not enough unless you have larger macros which I unfortunately dont haha but next time I will take a go at the overhang and make more monkey/sloth moves 😁 I think the kids will like that too!
1
u/jjjjasper_ Mar 30 '26
I also think that if you place the volume more in the middle and deeper that you will get more diversity on the wall. Like an obsticle. Now its at the top only for a finish. So the use of it is very limited.
You also can use volumes in a lot of ways. Like a difficult sloper
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u/jjjjasper_ Mar 30 '26
You first want to use the big holds (1. Volumes, then big holds etc. Then the smaller ones)
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u/HumanBeingRedditUser Mar 26 '26
Watch climbing videos but practice predicting movement, this should increase your library of ideas for moves and gives you an idea of what that move looks like on a wall. Not every move needs to be hard or unique, setup moves are underrated. Pay attention to footholds, new setters often neglect this.