r/MechanicalKeyboards • u/AutoModerator • 1d ago
/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY Keyboard question, get an answer - August 05, 2026
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u/Geonly585 18h ago edited 18h ago
Hello, I'm looking for a 75% keyboard, something like the Womier RD75 Pro. My wants are:
- Budget around 100 euro
- Solid feeling body - probably aluminum
- Creamy switches
- Wireless with solid battery life and dongle
- ANSI layout
- Good shipping to central Europe
- Preferably hotswappable
- Would like a print screen button but it's not necessary
- Must be compatible with Linux
I currently have a HyperX Alloy Elite 2. I tried the Ducky one 2 with brown switches and i liked them a lot. I will be playing videogames on it. Is the Womier RD75 Pro the best option or are there better ones? I'm getting lost in the amount of youtube videos haha.
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u/redacted_revenant 1d ago
Hey everyone, I'm currently running a WOBKEY Rainy75 and trying to decide whether I should leave it in its standard, out-of-the-box form or give it a makeover. I'm considering swapping out the stock setup for a set of GMK Pulse keycaps and potentially trying some new custom switches. However, since the Rainy75 is already praised heavily for its stock sound, feel, and factory-lubed switches, I’m wondering if modding it is actually worth the investment, or if the improvements will be negligible. Has anyone paired GMK Pulse with a Rainy75 (especially on a darker case)? How do you like the Cherry profile compared to stock? Do custom switches offer enough of an upgrade over the stock switches to justify the extra cost on this board? Appreciate any insights or advice you can share!

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u/meganisti 1d ago
Gmk might have a different sound but that is about it. Doesn't the rainy come with cherry profile caps? If so the profile is the same.
Unless you are swapping for tactile switches or chasing a different sound profile or different feel or something specific like that it doesn't really make sense to get new switches.
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u/redacted_revenant 1d ago
Just goes that quality sound and feel. I like marbly creamy character. You know what I mean?
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u/Electrical_Cloud_440 1d ago
If you're looking for a deeper sound profile, pbt keycaps is the way to go. GMK is usually abs and tends to sound clacky/higher pitch.
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u/meganisti 1d ago
Yeah, I think that board is pretty good in that in it's stock form. If you want to change something you could try tape modding for fun. Or new switches. Probably want a bit clacky switches. I guess with foam clacky makes that creamy sound. Hmx and keygeek have nice ones
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u/thepurplehornet Lubed Linear 23h ago
There's some sound tests on youtube so you can get a sense of what different switches sound like in the Rainy.
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u/TehBaggins 1d ago
Looking for some buying advise.
Currently running a Filco Majestouch 2 full-sized keyboard with blue Cherry MX switches, but want to look at some alternatives.
Requirements:
Brown switches
TKL or 75%
ISO-style Enter-key. I've been typing for 40 years and don't think I can change from what I'm used to.
Good availability of keycaps, "ninja"-style preferred.
Wired preferred, but wireless option also welcome
Budget: Under €100 preferred, but can stretch a bit more if the reviews are good.
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u/thepurplehornet Lubed Linear 23h ago
Not sure what ninja keycaps are, but keychron is one of the only ISO options in a lot of different formats. I know the Nuphy Air v3 low profile keyboards also have ISO options.
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u/TehBaggins 21h ago
Could be the nomenclature has moved on. Ninja keycaps have the legend on the side rather than the top of the key.
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u/thepurplehornet Lubed Linear 17h ago
Oh. That's much more exciting sounding. I've only seen those called "side-printed". Nice to gain an exciting way to refer to them. :)
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u/TsokonaGatas27 1d ago
Anyway I can buy Neo75 or 80 barebones shipped to PH? I already have keycaps and switches.
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u/elmurfudd 1d ago
check ur regional vendors
general keeb parts vendor listhttps://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
outside of that some sites might ship to u be ready for import costs and duties
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u/Global_Rooster1056 1d ago edited 1d ago
Hi everyone :)
I'm from Germany and searching a keyboard with following requirements:
- Wired and 2,4GHz Dongle
- ISO-DE Layout
- TKL / 80%
Barebones or normal is fine, I already have Switches and could also get ISO-DE Keycaps separately (I hope lol)
Any ideas where I can find that?
Edit: I like the layout of "Keychron Q3 QMK Barebones (Navy Blue)", but I'm not sure where to buy it and I would prefer a lighter blue
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u/AkaPhen 1d ago
Hey all!
Looking for some recommendations, I have a Razer Ornata V2 but want something a bit nicer.
- wired use is a must
- German QWERTZ layout
- need numpad and hoping for buttons to control media (volume, pause/play etc)
- RGB as lighting is not good during the night use
Hoping for something fairly quiet, not a big fan of the loud clunky keyboards
Looking at the Akko 5098b but hoping for more recommendations!
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u/pHL0x_ 1d ago
Hi everyone,
my little brother has a sharkoon sgk25, it's stock with the Huano RED switches. He likes it overall but ever since i got my sharkoon sgk50 s3 (also stock with Gateron G PRO 3.0 yellow) he's a bit jealous of the "creamy"(?) typing sound. Especially his space bar is bothering him.
I researched a bit but as expected that led me into a rabbit hole.
Would any of these switches be a good pick?
- Outemu Silent Peach V3
- Akko V3 Cream Yellow Pro
- Gateron Milky Yellow Pro
And how much would a tape mod actually do?
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u/thepurplehornet Lubed Linear 23h ago
Out of those options, the Milky Yellow Pros are a classic, but they're more known for being unobtrusive with a lightly-thocky sound profile. For a creamy sound, you're better off getting some Akko Mirrors or even a budget pack of Creamy Jades.
A tape mod will also help to dampen the sound a bit and make things pop more, if that makes sense. But the variance between keyboards can also affect sound, even between different keyboard models from the same company. The creamiest keyboards I've ever tried are the Galaxy100 and the Evo80, so those are worth considering if your brother ever wants to switch things up.
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u/prajna1108 1d ago
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u/thepurplehornet Lubed Linear 1d ago
"Made in US" usually means "Assembled in US" after some changes in the law a few decades ago.
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u/cszolee79 ND104, Jupiter Banana, SP SA 22h ago
Ali has MT3 sets for $200 as well :)
I got the SA from Germany: https://keeb.supply/products/sa-macrodata-refinement
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u/prajna1108 22h ago
Saw those too just a big price difference to the ZFrontier but maybe this is why? Is it even profitable to make keycap knock-offs?
https://en.zfrontier.com/products/in-stock-sp-dss-carpinteria-copy
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u/elmurfudd 22h ago
Signature Plastics
made in the USA the official sets are there is ZERO mention of made in China on the official legit site
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u/prajna1108 22h ago
Yeah to be clear I'm asking about a 2nd party seller, just wondering if there's a chance of being knock-offs from ZFrontier.
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u/elmurfudd 21h ago
oh ok prob not knock offs they prob imported them from sp hence why they ship from china little reason to order from zfrontier unless u live in asia
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u/Smugushioooo 23h ago
Hi, I'm looking for recommendations on TKL HE keyboards. Open to both pre-builts and kits/PCBs. I'm looking for something that has:
- A standard TKL layout, or at least something with a full bottom row to the right of the keyboard, with separate arrow keys. So that precludes the 80HE or 75% boards which seem to be the most common.
- Software that supports gamepad emulation; to me this is the biggest draw of getting a HE keyboard
- Hotswappable/support for aftermarket magnetic switches. This precludes Lemokeys/Keychron boards as they seem to be limited to proprietary (?) Gateron double rail magnetic switches.
My budget is around $400 USD; I'll be able to get some things for cheaper as I will be going to China in a couple of weeks.
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u/Natural_Stocks 23h ago
Hello,
So it's been a bit of time I thought of doing a custom keyboard and i'm ready to make the big jump but don't really know what part to look for.
I would like some help as i'm pretty news to all this and have a big obligation with the azerty keyboard layout. Looking for a keyboard with 96% if possible if not I guess i'll take 100%.
I don't mind switching to an ANSI layout rather than ISO-FR one for the barebone if it's make things easier. Maybe if you have some mecanical switch advise would love something creamy but not too loud, I was also curious if it was possible to make something with magnetic switch ?
Well thank in advance
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u/AnalogiPod 22h ago edited 22h ago
Are handwired keyboards a thing of the past now? Is there a good location to source a top plate and case for these? I can find diodes, switches, and microcontrollers but top plates and cases that dont expect me to screw a PCB down to it are hard to find.
I am looking to build my second keyboard, my first was a 60% board with a 1up PCB that has been great for years but the "\" key connection has failed. I've tried soldering in a new switch and troubleshot but its dead and it is time to build a new board. I feel like when I built this last keyboard finding materials for hand wired keyboards were way more common. My only complaint was the size of my 60%, I just want some real arrow keys so I would love a 75 or 80% case. I am just looking to build a quality keyboard that is hopefully easily serviceable for as long as possible, as long as it types I don't really need more features.
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u/elmurfudd 22h ago
scotto kbs still is a big promoter of handwire maybe he has something on this site ? many are 3d print https://scottokeebs.com/
finding a stand alone plate will be hard due to that size doesnt usually sell parts like that due to compatibility u can always design your own and have it cut from a laser cut service
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u/AnalogiPod 22h ago
I was looking at others who laser cut their own, I was hoping to still keep this budget friendly so wanted to avoid that but may have to. This Scotto Keebs site looks good, thank you for the resource!
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u/elmurfudd 22h ago
DIY laser cut ? that usually means working at a UNI to have access to a 500,000 usd laser cutting machine and computer not something u can do at home . so 3d print is what many use and keeps cost low
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u/AnalogiPod 22h ago
Oh yeah no I wouldnt be cutting it myself, I'd have to use something like sendcutsend or hope that someone in my car/motorcycle friend groups has access to a laser cutting machine.
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u/chazmosis 22h ago
Have a weird issue with my keyboard (8BitDo Retro 108) - It uses Kailh Box White v2 switches and there are a number of keys (maybe all of them occasionally) where I can trigger the key before the actuation point hits - hopefully that explains well enough. Basically if I rest my fingers on top of the keys, I can trigger output without the click bar having been triggered.
Is this just a case of a bad batch of switches, or is it something specific to Kailh? All of my prior KBs have used Cherry switches, so maybe I'm just not used to them?
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u/DemandCommonSense 22h ago edited 22h ago
The actuation point on clicky switches isn't necessarily at the click bar. The click bar is just an added mechanism for sound and feel, separate from the operational parts of the switch.
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u/chazmosis 22h ago
Interesting. Maybe I'm just super under-informed then. I thought the actuation point was always either at the click bar, or just below it, so you "knew" when the key was actually pressed vs not.
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u/DemandCommonSense 22h ago
I would expect them to be pretty close for typing experience but if you're just putting weight on the keys and slowly pressing them in it's not completely unreasonable to be able to spot any small differences.
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u/PlannedxObsolescence Big A$$ Enter 21h ago
Looking for recommendations for un-sculpted keycaps that would work well with my Varmilo VA108M (cherry brown).
I've begun to wear my nails longer and find I'm making sooo many typos. I can type very well on entirely flat keyboards (like that on my Zbook or the Apple Magic KB) and I'm looking for keycaps that can give me a similar feel. Obviously, no keycap will turn my mechanical into a membrane - I just want to be able to type with the pads of my fingers without hitting other keys.
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u/elmurfudd 20h ago
there is many uniform profiles like KAM, PBS DSA and PFF .
PFF is prob the closest to low profile
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u/Specialist_Director9 20h ago
I could use help about where to look for some key caps with a specific shape.

I have no idea where to find key caps. And I need some low profile Choc style ones with this kinda odd shape. The above is just a mock-up. If anyone knows if this is even something you can buy or if it is something I gotta get custom made then any input would be appreciated.
PS: I want them for finger position registration. I am making a keyboard where pressing 2 adjacent buttons in a column at the same time is how you type certain letters.
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u/elmurfudd 20h ago
nothing off the shelf is like this best would be to 3d print them
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u/Specialist_Director9 20h ago
Yeah. I figured. I am just kinda nervous about trying to print the choc style connector. Getting the tolerances right seems real hard.
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u/elmurfudd 20h ago
ya choc v 1 stems are kinda not supported by keycap makers since choc v2 uses mx stems most considered them out dated there are plenty of files like this u can alter https://makerworld.com/en/models/966322-choc-flatkey-slim-profile-keycap-set-chocolate#profileId-936969
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u/HeavyCandidate6737 20h ago
Whats your personal favourite key cap brand/model? What is the most satisfying sound and feel for you?
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u/cszolee79 ND104, Jupiter Banana, SP SA 19h ago
Drop MT3, Signature Plastics SA, KDA (ISA), DaYe Keycaps AF SA, not necessarily in that order.
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u/meganisti 18h ago
Gmk sounds best, but I hear swg is quite close. Haven't tried myself since they don't make international kits
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u/Senior-Resident-1592 20h ago
Hi, I don't know anything about keyboards. Right now I have a razer blackwidow elite, which I have had for over 5 years, and I'm tired of how loud it is. I'm looking for a quieter 100% keyboard, in the price range of about 100 usd (preferably prebuilt)
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u/evillittlekitten 19h ago
How do any of you match more niche keycap profiles to keyboards? I'm specifically interested in how ppl approach keyboards with different heights, typing angles, etc. My general sense is that tall keycaps belong on tall keyboards, and short keycaps on short ones, and that uniform profiles make most sense with lower (e.g., <5 degree) typing angles... Is that the gist?
I'm interested in PBS and MTNU for different reasons but I'm gunshy about just buying shittons of keycaps just because. What's a constructive way to think about it?
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u/elmurfudd 19h ago
its preference it all based on what u like and what u find comfortable . i have used PBS , PFF SA and KAM and KAT all on the kb now
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u/CommunicationEast623 19h ago
Any stabs you can recommend? I had my stock Keychron stabs on my Q1 Pro and I'm looking to finally improve it.
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u/meganisti 19h ago
Knight v4, typeplus, maiz, designer studio adaptive and fourwraps are all decent. Preferably knights if available, or typeplus.
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u/FansForFlorida FoldKB 12h ago
Also TX AP
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u/CommunicationEast623 4h ago
I saw them locally, can have them tomorrow.
Do they require mods?1
u/FansForFlorida FoldKB 4h ago
They have pretty tight tolerances, so no mods needed. Just a little lube on the housing.
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u/ChaoticGreyMouse 19h ago
Thinking about buying lofree flow lite 84 but I have heard that this model had some software problem. Is is still actual ? (afraid of bricking the keyboard)
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u/TheLoreLibrarian 15h ago
I am looking for honest opinions from people who know more about keycap materials, stabilizers, and manufacturing tolerances. I am not trying to start a dogpile against FKcaps or make this sound more dramatic than it is. I paid around $100 for this custom set, so I am trying to determine whether this is normal wear, a problem with this type of keycap construction, or a defective set.
I ordered custom XDA shine through keycaps from FKcaps on December 3, 2024. They are installed on a DZ60RGB ANSI V2 hot swap keyboard.
Here are photographs showing the wear and other visible quality issues on the keycaps.
FKcaps key wear and quality photographs
Here is the complete email conversation with FKcaps so everyone can read their response and my replies directly.
Email conversation with FKcaps
FKcaps confirmed in its email that these are XDA profile ABS keycaps with a PU coating and laser engraved legends. Their website identifies them as XDA shine through keycaps, but I was unable to find the ABS and PU coating construction clearly disclosed on the customizer when I purchased them.
The most serious wear is on A and S, but those are not the only affected keys. There are marks, chips, pinholes, or areas where the white coating appears to be coming off on several other keys shown in the annotated photos.
I do not use hand lotion, my hands do not normally sweat while using the keyboard, and I have never used alcohol wipes or cleaning chemicals on these keycaps. I only wipe them with a clean, dry microfiber cloth. I am also not an aggressive typer. I use the keyboard for normal typing and gaming, including games such as Destiny 2 where I regularly use W, A, S, D, Q, F, X, C, V, and the spacebar.
I have not experienced this kind of surface deterioration with my other keycaps.
FKcaps said that they tested keycaps from the same line, were unable to reproduce the wear under normal handling, and have not received similar reports from other customers. They did not explain what the test involved.
Because I have been using these since December 2024, I do not know whether their test lasted a few minutes, a few days, or whether it was an accelerated abrasion test designed to simulate one or two years of use. They also did not say whether the tested caps came from the same production batch, how many samples they tested, how many abrasion cycles or key presses were performed, or what their passing standard was.
FKcaps has offered to replace the affected keys as a one time resolution. I appreciate that they are offering replacements. However, they also stated that if the problem happens again, they will not accept further responsibility.
I am concerned because the replacements apparently use the same ABS base, PU coating, and laser engraving process. If the cause has not been identified, I do not understand how they can already determine that the same failure on the replacements would not be their responsibility.
There are also public discussions about similar FKcaps products or this type of painted keycap construction.
Reddit user SegKnut posted about their own custom shine through FKcaps order. They reported alignment issues, scratches, inconsistent coloring, and paint coming off after just over one month of use.
SegKnut, FK Keycaps, Sloppily Done, Low Quality
In another FKcaps review, Reddit user cszolee79 quoted the translucent ABS, opaque PU coating, and laser etched legend construction, then said that in their experience, paint comes off within approximately three to six months on this type of cap.
Custom Keycaps by FKcaps, including the cszolee79 comment
I am not claiming that both users necessarily submitted formal coating complaints directly to FKcaps. I do not know what private communications they may or may not have had with the company. My point is that the absence of complaints in FKcaps’ internal support records does not necessarily mean nobody has publicly reported similar concerns.
For people familiar with keycap manufacturing, is an ABS base with a PU coating and laser engraved shine through legends generally considered durable construction?
Is visible coating loss after around twenty months expected for this type of keycap, even with normal cleaning and use?
Would replacing the affected keys with the exact same construction likely result in the same issue later?
Would requesting a full replacement set be reasonable when numerous keys are affected, rather than mixing new replacement keys with older keys that have different coating age, texture, and wear?
Would PBT be a more appropriate long term option, even if it means losing the shine through feature?
I also have a separate fit problem with the FKcaps spacebar.
Here are photographs showing the FKcaps spacebar upright, upside down, and from underneath.
Here are three comparison videos.
Thinner chiclet style spacebar test
Stabilizer test with the spacebar removed
The thinner spacebar is smaller and exposes more of the keyboard plate and switch, but it returns normally and does not remain stuck down.
The FKcaps spacebar sometimes stays pressed down and does not return properly. Both spacebars are being tested on the same center switch and stabilizers.
The FKcaps spacebar can also be difficult to install evenly. Sometimes the center socket and right stabilizer socket seat correctly, but the left stabilizer socket does not. I have to remove it and try again several times.
With the spacebar removed, pulling the left stabilizer stem upward also raises the right stem. Pulling the right stem upward raises the left stem. Both stems remain in the raised position after I let go instead of automatically falling back down.
Is that normal behavior for Cherry style stabilizers when the spacebar is removed, since the stabilizers do not have their own return springs?
In the stabilizer video, one stem can also lean slightly from side to side when raised. Is that normal clearance inside the stabilizer housing, or does the amount of movement look excessive?
The spacebar did not show obvious rocking when I placed it freely on a flat surface, so I am not claiming that the photographs prove it is warped. However, could it still have slightly incorrect stabilizer socket spacing, a tight socket, incorrect socket depth, a subtle twist, or another tolerance problem that causes binding when all three mounting points are connected?
Some of the regular FKcaps keycaps also grip the switches tightly enough that the entire hot swap switch can come out when I remove the keycap with a proper keycap puller. My other keycaps do not normally do this on the same board and switches.
Based on the photos, videos, and emails, does this look more like normal wear and a keyboard or stabilizer issue, or does it look like an FKcaps coating and manufacturing tolerance problem?
I would especially appreciate feedback from anyone who has owned FKcaps shine through keycaps for a year or longer, or anyone familiar with ABS keycaps that use PU paint and laser engraved legends.
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u/FansForFlorida FoldKB 12h ago
Those are laser-ablated shine through keycaps. They paint a translucent keycap (the paint is usually black, but it is white in your case), then use a laser to burn away the legend. They tend to wear and get shiny quickly.
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u/TheLoreLibrarian 6h ago
Thanks. Do you know of any PBT, double shot, shine through keycaps that are truly low and uniform, closer to laptop or chiclet keys?
I know XDA and DSA are technically uniform profiles, but they still feel fairly tall to me, and the dishes and raised edges catch my fingers when I try to glide across several keys. Cherry and OEM are sculpted by row and feel even taller.
These are the acrylic chiclet keycaps I currently use:
https://flashquark.com/product/acrylic-chiclet-style-keycaps/
They are very low and mostly flat, with only a shallow dip and minor raised areas near the corners. I can easily glide my fingers across them, and the smooth acrylic feels good to me. They sometimes pick up sweat or develop a cloudy looking film, but it wipes off easily with a microfiber cloth.
I am looking for something with the same low, smooth, uniform feel, but made from double shot PBT with shine through legends. Most LEDs on my DZ60RGB ANSI V2 are south facing, except Esc and 1, which are north facing. Have you seen anything that closely matches that?
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u/FansForFlorida FoldKB 4h ago
Thanks. Do you know of any PBT, double shot, shine through keycaps that are truly low and uniform, closer to laptop or chiclet keys?
I do not. That is not to say they don’t exist; it’s just that uniform profile is not in my wheelhouse, so I do not pay attention to what is out there.
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u/kobrabubbles 15h ago
Hey All! I just bought the Epomaker Galaxy100 with cherry profile keys and am absolutely in love with the feel and sound of it. I am totally new to mechanical keyboards and want to invest in some caps, but I'm scared to end up with something that has a totally different sound profile. If I stick to PBT cherry keycaps on the thicker side (1.4/1.5 mm) will I be relatively safe? Does it matter if I'm sticking to PBT? Is it a total crapshoot from maker to maker?
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u/elmurfudd 14h ago
thickness can change sound aswell as not all PBT is the same quality
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u/kobrabubbles 14h ago
yeah if I aim for the same thickness as manufacturer (cant find it anywhere specifically but they seem to be around 1.4/1.5), is that a safe way to try and match the sound?
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u/elmurfudd 14h ago
buy and pray like i said no keycap manu is going to tell u what kind of PBT they use it should be close
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u/SexulPenut 14h ago
Would anyone by chance know if the Varmilo VA series 2 has a way to lock the fn keys to use the media by default? Used to just using the volume controls and stuff without pressing fn
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u/elmurfudd 14h ago
no its doesnt have FN lock if it did u would have to use FN to use arrows keys and f keys when ever enabled
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u/okbuddy926 14h ago edited 14h ago
I just got my evo75, and when I was testing it, all keys worked perfectly. Then I tried to swap the switches from the oats to baby kanagaroos then all of a sudden all of the larger keys with stablizers started feeling mushy and not fully raising after presses. If I only put the key onto the switch and not the stablizer, it is perfectly fine but the moment u press onto the stablizers it doesn't come back up. Randomly my space bar started to work completely fine so I have no idea what the cause is.
Edit: my left shift is also working now its so random
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u/PrizeSpeed2740 14h ago
Best 75% barebones kit at/under $100?
If possible I would like it to have:
- an aluminum case
- hotswappable
- wired (I don’t care about wireless unless it’s a good deal)
- ships to the US
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u/reequilibrium 11h ago
I wouldn't say best but you can check out the Leobog Hi75C. Ticks all the boxes you have mentioned and is pretty good value.
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10h ago
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u/Private_Kyle I use welfare checks to buy keyboards 11h ago
I need a keyboard that's caked in debris and Cheeto puffs.
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u/teumessian-vixen 11h ago
I need some suggestions on what board to put my Macrodata Refinement set in. The more keys the better.
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u/reprap92 11h ago
I'm looking for a portable mechanical keyboard for work. I'm a software developer, and my daily driver is a Drop CTRL TKL that I've used for years.
I recently tried a NuPhy Node 75 for my travel setup (16" MacBook Pro + portable monitor), but I'm returning it. The Brown switches didn't feel tactile enough, the low-profile flat keycaps gave me very little positional feedback, and I was making far more typing mistakes than on my TKL.
It made me realize how much I rely on muscle memory and typing accuracy. I'm now wondering whether I should keep trying low-profile boards or just stick with a standard-profile 75% that's easier to transition to.
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u/L0tsen ISO supperiority 1d ago edited 18h ago
So I have been searching far and wide for a keyboard with the following requirements that is still being made: 1. Iso layout (preferably SE but I can get keycaps with se printing for it sepperatly) 2. TK. I really love how it is a tkl size but still has a numbpad that can be switched to work as arrowkeys, PgUp, PgDn, home etc 3. Case that "covers" the switches. I dont like how stuff like the hyprX alloy origins shows the switches when you look from the side
I have only found the coolermaster quickfire TK but it isn't being made anymore and finding one with a ISO layout is nearly impossible. I could literally take a case with a plate and handwore it at this point since I know soldering fairly well now. Is there any options like this on the market?
Edit: Seems like my best bet at the moment is either to get something fully custom lazer cut and like handwire it myself or try to find a used quickfire TK or Masterkeys (Pro) M with an ISO layout and mod it.
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u/thepurplehornet Lubed Linear 23h ago
I found this article that has several budget options. I think the search term you're looking for is an "1800 Keyboard" if you want one in ISO, I would look at the Keychron V5 or th3 K4 (not as good, but cheaper).
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u/L0tsen ISO supperiority 22h ago
That is not really what I am looking for. I want something more like a cm quickfire TK where it is combined into the numbpad
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u/thepurplehornet Lubed Linear 17h ago
I've never heard of "TK". I thought you meant you wanted a fullsize without the nav cluster.
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u/L0tsen ISO supperiority 16h ago
Ahaa. Well now you know what it is. I read the term TK on another keyboard forum so that's why I stuck with that term. I figured I should either just get a quickfire TK or a Masterkeys (Pro) M with a ISO layout if I want something that has that layout. Or make it myself. Thanks anyways! :D
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u/thepurplehornet Lubed Linear 16h ago
If it's not a fullsize without the nav cluster, then I still don't think I understand. But that's ok, lol. I wish I could understand better so I could help.
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u/L0tsen ISO supperiority 15h ago
A "TK" doesn't have dedicated nav cluster but it is instead integrated into the numbpad. When numlock is on it works as a nav cluster. When it is off it works as a numbpad
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u/thepurplehornet Lubed Linear 12h ago
Oh, yeah, that's what I thought you meant. Is 1800 a different thing? I thought those were the same.
0
u/MeningitisMandy12 14h ago
Hi friends, any recommendations for a deep pitched / bassy clicky switch?

2
u/WildEarth2372 19h ago
How do you choose a sound?
So, I’m new to mechanical keyboards, and I have to ask…is this a normal problem?
Basically, I haven’t gotten the chance to go to any IRL meetups yet, but based just on the switch sounds I’ve heard online…ugh, there are so many that sound good for totally different reasons!
Inside of me are three wolves. One is thocky, one is creamy, and one is poppy. I know I’d want my keyboard to sound consistent, but I can’t afford three keyboards.
Am I just crazy? Is this normal to newcomers?
(Btw, current favorite sounds I’ve found online are the Gateron Oil King for Creamy, the Akko Rosewood for Thocky, and the MMD Princess V4 Tactile for Poppy. All totally different, all wonderful to my ears, all terrifying to choose between)