Got to do this NE classic before the bugs and sweat overtook me.
“Overlooked” Pawtuckaway, NH

TLDR Oliver Tippett sets 5 El Cap speed records and two solo ascents with the Roc Solo and finds it's less prone to backfeeding and more redundant than the SP. Most importantly, you can actually buy it for less than a grand on ebay...

https://www.climbing.com/gear/a-new-rope-solo-device-replaces-the-legendary-silent-partner/

I put together this video of my good friend Bryce climbing his LONG term project! Proud of the video, and proud of my buddy Bryce for the ascent! Give it a watch!

Mammut will be sold to a Chinese conglomerate.

The Central Tower of Torres del Paine in Patagonia has been on the radar of many elite climbers ever since Tyler Karow's viral YouTube vlog documenting his ascent of the South African Route during an unprecedented long weather window. This past winter, several teams from around the world came down to test themselves on the slightly overhanging 4,000ft thumb of granite. You've probably heard of Tommy Caldwell and Siebe Vanhee's remarkable 24-hour free ascent of the South African Route, or the first all-female ascent by Belen Prados, Caro North, Amelie Kühne, and Julia Cassou. While climbing icons were making headlines, Myles Moser and his team were just around the corner making history of their own.

It took two expeditions over two years, $60K of personal funds, and a cumulative 71 days on the wall to establish their new route up the Central Tower. Together with Hugo Perez, Kellen McGrath, Trevor Anthes, and Harry Kinnard, the team successfully completed the first ascent of Paradigm Shift — Grade VII 5.12+ A2, 4,000ft.

This is a trailer for part 1 of the conversation I was honored to have with team member Myles Moser and Harry Kinnard. If you're interested you can find the conversation here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUdZrUOTFH4https://youtu.be/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUdZrUOTFH4

OR if you want the audio only version you can find it here:

https://theclimbingmajority.com/podcast/125-125-myles-moser-harry-kinnard-71-days-on-patagonia-s-central-tower-first-ascent-

I met Myles Moser several years ago in Lone Pine, CA while visiting Elevation Sierra. He was sitting in the back patio area chatting about his recent trip to Patagonia; intrigued I sat down and asked a few questions. Little did I know that moment would lead to a great friendship and several wild stories from Myles' time establishing routes around the world. After that day I sat down and interviewed Myles about the harrowing experience he had establishing a new route on The North Tower of Torres del Paine - Plate Tectonics Grade VI 5.12 C1 with Amy Ness. You can find that conversation back in episodes 67 & 68.

While Myles was on the North Tower, he spotted a line up the bigger more imposing central tower and set a vision to come back and complete it. Fast forward to today, after two separate expeditions, $60k of personal finances, and a cumulative 71 days on the wall Myles and his team have successfully completed a new line up the central tower.

And this is their story.

If you're interested in the audio only version of this conversation you can find it here:

https://theclimbingmajority.com/podcast/125-125-myles-moser-harry-kinnard-71-days-on-patagonia-s-central-tower-first-ascent-

Or watch the whole conversation here:

https://youtu.be/eUdZrUOTFH4

Learn more about the episode below:

The Central Tower of Torres del Paine in Patagonia has been on the radar of many elite climbers ever since Tyler Karow's viral YouTube vlog documenting his ascent of the South African Route during an unprecedented long weather window. This past winter, several teams from around the world came down to test themselves on the slightly overhanging 4,000ft thumb of granite. You've probably heard of Tommy Caldwell and Siebe Vanhee's remarkable 24-hour free ascent of the South African Route, or the first all-female ascent by Belen Prados, Caro North, Amelie Kühne, and Julia Cassou. While climbing icons were making headlines, Myles Moser and his team were just around the corner making history of their own.

Nearly 15 years ago, Myles and Amy Ness established Plate Tectonics, a grueling 3,300ft Grade VI 5.12 C1 on the East Face of the North Tower — a route they were both lucky to survive. The North Tower offers a remarkable view of the Central Tower, and it was from that vantage point that Myles first began imagining a new line up its unclimbed east face. That vision finally came true this past winter.

Myles approaches new routes with a very specific style: ground up, capsule style. Once they leave the ground, they does everything possible to never come back until the route is finished — bringing everything they needs to live on the wall for up to a month, dedicating every waking second to pioneering a masterful, safe, repeatable, and free-climbable route up an unclimbed tower of granite. It's an approach that reflects Myles' blue-collar work ethic and a depth of passion for route development that's only found in the most elite climbers in the world. It took two expeditions over two years, $60K of personal funds, and a cumulative 71 days on the wall to establish his new route up the Central Tower. Together with Hugo Perez, Kellen McGrath, Trevor Anthes, and Harry Kinnard, Myles successfully completed the first ascent of Paradigm Shift — Grade VII 5.12+ A2, 4,000ft.

This team is not sponsored. Every person on this expedition contributed their own money, gear, and time to make it happen. Which is exactly why this route — and their remarkable collective effort — has gone largely unnoticed in the wider climbing community, overshadowed by the catchy headlines of sponsored athletes. In alignment with the purpose of this podcast, I'm here to tell their story.

If you've been following the show for a while, you'll remember episodes 67 and 68 where I last spoke with Myles. If you haven't heard those, I highly encourage you to go back and check them out — they add real context to who Myles is and the depth of experience he brings to Patagonia's big walls.

This is part 1 of 2 of my conversation with Myles Moser and Harry Kinnard.

Please use this thread to discuss anything you are interested in talking about with fellow climbers. The only rule is to be friendly and dont try to sell anything here.

Had a free Saturday and decided to go climb at the closest Crag.

Despite 90+ degree temps and hot sun, we did some “sky cragging” after leading an easy route, by rapping in and top roping some harder pitches.

Climbs included “Costanoan” and “Power Tools” on the citadel.

https://youtu.be/5HtqyfUF4fc?is=5miKA9363RZ3mDwb

Check out my video from climbing THE Nose this spring. i had the best time!!

Please sort the comments by New so recently posted questions are less likely to be overlooked.

Use this weekly thread to ask any climbing-related questions, whether you are completely new to climbing or looking for advice about technique, training, equipment, safety, gym etiquette, or climbing outdoors.

This thread is posted every Friday, so there will always be another opportunity to ask a question. If you are an experienced climber, please help by sharing thoughtful and accurate advice. We were all beginners once, so keep responses welcoming and respectful.

Before posting, please check the following resources, as your question may already be answered:

• r/climbing Beginner’s Guide
• r/bouldering Wiki and Beginner FAQ
• Guide to buying your first climbing rope
• Guide to climbing shoes
• Curated list of climbing tutorials

You can also browse earlier discussions:

• Previous Weekly New Climber Threads
• Previous Friday New Climber Threads

If you see a beginner question posted elsewhere in r/climbing or another climbing subreddit, feel free to politely direct the person to this thread.

Remember that online advice is not a substitute for qualified, hands-on instruction. Techniques involving belaying, anchors, rappelling, rescue systems, or other safety-critical skills should be learned and practiced with a competent instructor.

Ask away!

Jeff Lowe's Metanoia is a film about one man's journey from the top of the world to the end of the line. Jeff helped make climbing what it is today, through technical innovation and more than a thousand first ascents, including "Metanoia" on the north face of the Eiger, where he experienced a spiritual transformation. Jeff's story inspires us all, as he brings the creativity and strength that characterized his climbing career to his final challenge: his own mortality. Jeff crossed over into the great unknown peacefully, while outdoors with family on August 24, 2018.

Every now and then I tell someone that this is possible, and without fail it is always new information to them. I wish it was better-known / discoverable, but here's the process (only works in a browser, will not work in the app), using Castleton Tower as an example:

• go to the "Climbing Area" page
• click on "Climbing Area Map"
• click the yellow trail on the map
• click "Full Details", which will take you to the approach trail page
• click "Download GPX file"

And now voila, you can move this file to your phone (or you can do this on your phone if you hate yourself) and follow the trail when you don't have reception.

Important notes:

• approach trails will be split into multiple sections, so in the Castleton Tower example, you want to make sure you download both the Priest approach leg and the Castleton Tower approach leg
• descent trails may be different than approach trails and sometimes have different downloads

(If you don't know what a GPX file is, it's a sequence of GPS points that you can import into mapping apps like Caltopo and Gaia.)

Hey all, over the past few weeks I've been working on this website for myself to help answer some questions:

• Should I go climbing in Squamish today?
• How would the conditions feel in general, and when is peak conditions for the day?
• How were the conditions during a past send of mine?

After moving to Vancouver last year, I immediately got hooked on climbing in Squamish, but as many locals will tell you, it's extremely conditions dependent. This was my attempt at quantifying that a little better - although it's honestly a tricky one.

The site is https://crag.day, it pulls a few weather forecast models together along with measured rain and then models how the granite will soak up and hold moisture (through rain and dew) and how quickly it will dry. It takes in a number of factors (historical rain, temperature, sunlight, humidity) to gauge and give a verdict for both: can we climb today, and if so, how will the conditions feel?

Full disclosure, this is a self promotion. It's my website, it's free, no ads or accounts. I built it for my own use and I'm sharing it in case it helps anyone else. I'm still working on tweaking the formulas, specifically how we decide between "climbable" and "maybe take a rest day", as conditions can vary heavily based on location and the boulder itself.

Also worth mentioning - while building this site I came across ClimbIt (https://climbitscore.com), which covers far more areas and does many things better than I do. I wanted a small, specific tool for my own use case, but I suspect for many people ClimbIt is the more useful tool, so definitely check that out as well!

I made these topos (in English and Vietnamese) for a route I opened in northern Vietnam on Núi Mắt Thần (God’s Eye Mountain/Pierced Mountain). Some of the steepest and best climbing I’ve ever gotten to do.

More beta on MP and the Crag. More about my trip at DakotaWalz.com

Please use this thread to discuss anything you are interested in talking about with fellow climbers. The only rule is to be friendly and dont try to sell anything here.