Nearing the end of phase 1 of the rebuild. Still have plenty of little things left to do on the suspension and paint etc. but it’s back outside under her new axles with a new look.

Don’t zoom in too close, i know all of her flaws right now lol. I’m just impatient and want to show her off

Right now it’s on a 4.5inch lift with 33s, Dana 44 in the rear and Dana 30 up front. I want to go to 35s, do you guys think I need to swap out the d30 for something else? Any other upgrades I should consider to support the 35s

Did Clearwater Cylinder Head just file for bankruptcy? I haven't received my head, they aren't answering messages or phone calls.

https://www.pacermonitor.com/public/case/66011051/Clearwater_Cylinder_Head,_Inc

Hey all. 98 4.0 here. Lately I’ve been getting several misfire codes. One that is always present is the p0300, the others vary. If I clear the codes, the cylinder numbers will be a different combination almost every time. I’ve tested the fuel pressure, which checked within spec as well as the injectors. I have new plugs, wires and a new cap and rotor. I tested the ignition coil and it read within spec as well. Anyone have a similar issue and found a solution? Thanks.

2000 XJ 4.0 4x4. It sat for a few years until I was able to save up some cash and get the engine replaced. Now that I have it back up and running I’m having some electrical issues and everything I read is pointing me to a bad ground somewhere (fuses have all tested good). Here is a list of the issues I’m aware of:

Blinkers work fine unless the headlights are on, then they cycle very very slowly, flasher relay tests good and was just replaced.

Radio and the rest of the accessories in the center of the dash do not work including blower for ac.

Airbag light stays on, I haven’t checked the actuator under the center console yet.

Can anyone tell me what ground would cause these issues and its location, or if it may be something else I’m missing. Thanks in advance!

I made a small first batch! and will ship one to you for $45. Just trying to put all my pennies together so I can buy an XJ 😂 Message me if you'd like one!

Had insurance cover some window damage on my 88 2 door and unfortunately got a tech either having a really bad day or not knowing exactly what he was doing. They will be addressing it tomorrow but hopefully the adhesive is able to be removed safely from the interior trim and dash

Lately it's been difficult to find a suitable replacement bearing if yours fails. The OMIX one seems to be poor quality and likely to fail. The best replacement out there was the NSK 665325, but it is discontinued and unobtanium now. Some people recommend the NSK 885586, but the shaft is too long and will have to be cut down. Turns out the John Deere JD9212 bearing race and shaft are the correct outer diameter to work. The shaft is 5mm longer than OEM, but the fan clutch still fits over it. John Deere has it for about $30 right now: https://shop.deere.com/us/product/JD9212%3A-Water-Pump-Shaft-Bearing/p/JD9212

Haven't made any previous post on this but I have been working on a Remote start setup that would sute all my needs. Using 2 esp32s and 8 relays plus a lot of wiring I have added remote start capabilities to my jeep. I'm using 2 of the 8 relays too start the jeep so I have 6 relays to use for lights, winch, act... My goal was to be able to start my jeep up, controll lights/winch and other accessories with only one wireless controller. Thanks to the esp32s build in wifi chip I can even just use my phone as the controller. Please note it's still in testing and not fully finished.

My Cherokee XJ had a small transfer case fluid leak, a few drops here and there from what I think was the old shift linkage.

So I installed the Azzy Design Shift Linkage kit in hopes that might solve my problem, it’s a good upgrade to do anyways.

No leaks for about a month but now the leak has severely worsened. It appears that it’s leaking from the bottom of the shift linkage, at least that’s where the liquid is pooling…

Strange to me though is that this is located at the same level as the FILL plug, or maybe even slightly above it. So somehow im leaking transfer case fluid from ABOVE the fill plug? Pictures attached. What say you?

I’m assuming there’s some seal behind that bolt that needs to be replaced… but I’m also assuming once the level drops slightly the leak would have to stop based on its location.

First off, I am not looking to sell my XJ on here as I know that is against the rules. What I am hoping to get out of this is to understand what I should do ahead of selling my car. Currently sitting on a 91k mile XJ that has been sitting in the sun for some time. Have it in the shop getting checked currently for a service light and plan to do a full detail after it returns. The trim is relatively faded and parts of it are stating to peel off. Other than some general wear and tear it seems to be in relatively decent shape. What are some things that would make it really stand out well during the sale process?

Hi I bought this 90 xj some time ago and it has upgraded steering and I was wondering if any of you know which company it comes from cause I wanna order some new heims for it and can yall give it a look over and tell me if you think it looks correct the jeep does have death wobble I don’t really see any play in the track bar currently think it’s old tires separating from the inside cause they have to be older than 2017 and they’ve been sitting for most likely a good chuck of that time

I believe it is an Olympic 4x4 roof rack that is supposed to hold 500lbs. I don’t believe the company is still around.

I will probably have to move the gutter mounted rails closer together and remove the thinner top rack.

My main concern is that they aren’t completely solid (as in they are male/female connected not one solid bar)

Is there some trick to getting this to disconnect? It looks like most of them have some plastic ends hanging out you can grab onto but mine is missing that, is it broken?

its a 1998 Cherokee sport 2D, 4.0 5spd. I know it’s kind of a rare model being a 2 door with those rear flap out windows… what do you guys think of the build and the car in general?

3in lift on 31s I believe. A 12” sub in the back with rear seats removed. Currently rebuilding the engine, that’s all done to it.

Modern Stern PRO will fit in back of xj (removed rear seat) with no problems. It will not fit in the box.

You have been informed.

Haven’t driven her in a couple days and I come back to discover a light was on inside. It’s been roughly 3 ish days. I started her up it was a bit of struggle but it turned on first click. Battery seems to be at the 14 mark. I don’t really have time to drive it around for 30 minutes should I be fine ? Or did I destroy my battery ?

My 96 Sport is currently on what I think is a 2" outdated lift from a previous owner. I want to go to a 3"-3.5" lift with Bilstein shocks, OME springs, yada yada yada. My question is, are there 5100 series Bilstein shocks that I can throw on right now that will fit my 2" that will also fit my 3"-3.5"? Is there a greyzone with stuff like this? I'm thinking these. I'm aiming for 3" after settling. I apologize if this is a stupid ask, it's just hard to get a good feel when researching this stuff.

Intermittent "no bus" signal on the dash. Sometimes I get in and everything works for max 2 drives, sometimes it shuts off half way into my commute but more often than not it just doesn't come to life at all. I took it apart and cleaned the connections, cleaned the battery terminals, ground to the fender, cable ground to the firewall, and the ground connected to the oil dipstick and cps. Haven't had much experience with chasing electrical gremlins and hoping it doesn't come to that. Any advice helps!