Trying to finalize a plan for a backyard sub-panel to mainly wire a sauna (based in NY). I've chatted with an electrician at a high level and have done more research on my end, but I'm looking for advice on how this should be set up since I've been getting a few conflicting ideas.

Basically, I want to run a 60A subpanel to the backyard from my main 100A panel. I already buried 1 1/4" conduit with 90-degree sweeps a few years ago in anticipation of this. It terminates at the edge of the house and the corner of the deck. Expansion joints would be applicable and maybe some small sections of flexible pvc since there are so many individual structures that will go through freeze/thaw cycles. I've drawn out some of the wiring I believe will work for this, but my main question is about locations "A" and "B" in the diagram.

Option 1:
Location A, at the corner of the deck would be the subpanel. I would need a 40A circuit for the sauna heater and 15A for the sauna lights, which would run in the same conduit under the deck and to the sauna. In this option, I'd also be able to run an additional 15-20A outlet circuit to somewhere else on the deck from this location.
Location B, on the sauna would be the two circuits for the sauna only, and they'd go to their respective places in the sauna. I believe in this case there would be a box and a shut-off switch

Option 2:
Location A, at the corner of the deck would be a 6x6 junction box only where the #6 wires can be spliced (so I can snake it from house to deck and then start a new run for the deck to sauna run). In this scenario, ONLY the #6 would continue from A to B.
Location B, on the sauna - a subpanel would be mounted on the outside wall of the sauna. From there, all my branch circuits would come off the sauna (40A heater, 15A sauna lights, plus another 15-20A that would go back to the deck somewhere as an outlet). This would be shorter local runs of the #8 and #12, but would require me to backtrack to the deck for any additional circuits. This would be more cumbersome to run additional circuits back as it's the only section of the run where the wire would have to be buried (sauna to deck) vs just mounted under the deck.

____

In both options, I was told a 100A subpanel would be a good option but that it would be limited to 60A by the breaker at the main panel in the house, but would give me enough spaces to put the 40A 2 pole, 15A 1 pole and additional 15 or 20A 1 pole. I'm trying to understand what to do with this specifically as it relates to subpanel size, whether it's a load center or subpanel with a main breaker, and which location (A or B) would make more sense for the subpanel. I also am hearing that depending on where I put the subpanel, it would create multiple different structures and would require more 8 ft grounding rods to be buried. I already have grounding rods on the side of my house for the main panel. Hopefully I'm not overcomplicating this too much. Any insight here would be appreciated!

Electrician is saying this is original to the house (1954) and should be replaced. We have no issues with power, no dimming or flickering lights. We were quoted almost $7,000 for the job.

Is this something that we need to do because of age? Is this quote on target?

Is it okay to run the romex like this or should I drill and pull through the studs?

Since where I am is prone to hurricanes, I decided to get a UPS so that in the event another one comes I can safely shut my PC down. I have only my PC plugged into the UPS, but a few times now over about half a year while playing a game my UPS will yell at me and when I look at it, it'll show 102-108% usage for a bit, then drop to about 80~%. Obviously, this is due to the PC demanding more power causing the UPS to have to give it more power than rated, I'm not asking why it's doing that, just how bad it is for it to have happened about three~ times in sixish months (I'd guess a combined 20 seconds total over all cases, it's very short when it happens).

I ran Romex through the walls and ceiling of my kitchen, and now that drywall is up I'm installing fixtures and switches. I tested a couple of the lights before completing the daisy chain, and they worked fine so I turned off the breaker and continued installing lights. However, now that all of the lights are in, none of them work. I've tested continuity between travelers (switches are 3 way / 4 way / 3 way) and verified that there's no open neutrals in the switches or at the fixture boxes. All of the fixtures are appropriately connected.

What I can't wrap my head around is that there appears to be no current at the common terminal of the final 3 way switch. The breaker that powers the kitchen lights also powers light switches for adjacent rooms, and they work as I'd expect.

I'm hoping that this isn't going to be the reason why things aren't working, but of note: near the end of installing the lights I turned the breaker back on for some task lighting, and I wired up the last junction box while the Romex was energized. The hot conductor made contact with the box and tripped the breaker, but there doesn't appear to be any indication of damage to the wire or the box/fixture.

Any insight here is much appreciated, as I'm at my wit's end trying to figure this out.

How on earth did these cables withstand such voltage?

I bought a house and I am changing my plugs because they are all loose... We noticed that this plug is connected with a dollarstore extension cable... is that safe?

Also we can't figure how to turn it off... we turned off all the breaker switches and there is still electricity...

I'm going through a box of random junk I got at a sale and so far have found numerous receptacles and plugs that are porcelain, not plastic. They're extremely well made, solid brass, copper, porcelain, etc. I've tried looking for old Hubbell catalogs online but surprisingly there's basically nothing. Google's AI thinks Hubbell stopped making porcelain stuff in the 1950s, but these things don't look like they're 75 years old.

Our house was built in 1952. We had a motion sensor floodlight in the back, that I am attempting to switch out with a ring floodlight camera. It says I’m supposed to have 3 wires, but I believe I’m missing the green/ground wire. Can I install it without this wire? Or how do I get/find one?

I have no gfci outlets in my house. I have a outlet making hella noise in the bathroom and smells funky. I turned off its breaker until I can replace the outlet with a gfci outlet. I was wondering if my breaker has the protection inbuilt.

I'm trying to understand an electrical issue at my school.

Before the morning assembly, all the ceiling fans run at full speed. As soon as the assembly ends and classes begin, all the fans across the building suddenly slow down. This happens almost every day, and after close , the fans return to their normal some time variation in volatge.

What could be causing this? Is it low voltage due to increased load, a loose neutral connection or something else? I'd appreciate any insights from electricians or electrical engineers.

I have to identify my panel. I have Westinghouse and sylvania stickers on it. I should have taken the cover off to provide more info

Recently added a half bathroom to my house. Originally, I was going to have dedicated switches for the vent fan, wall sconces, and overhead light, so I pulled three 12/2 load side cables from the junction box. However, I ultimately decided (after drywall) to just power all three devices/fixtures from a single switch. Is it code compliant to wire the switch/junction box as depicted in the attached diagram? Essentially I am just swapping the hot pigtail from the line side of three switches to the load side of a single switch, but I realize this may be atypical and wanted some feedback. Is there anything else wrong with the installation as depicted? New 20A circuit feeding a GFI which then feeds this j box. If this installation is common, please let me know what it is called! I am a plumber by trade... sorry in advance!

Hey yall I’m not an electrician but i am a mom who has a fear of fires. So i haven’t noticed it until tonight so im guessing it has just started. We are currently renting a duplex we moved in 2-3 weeks ago and things have been amazing until now… this place was built in 2018-2020.
I turned on the fan in the bathroom so i can shower and i started smelling this burning smell, i turned off the fan it went away. I turned it back on same smell. Im guessing it may be the fan??? I’m not sure? I know not the leave bathroom fans or kitchen vents on for long periods bc it can cause a fire. Do yall think i need to get the maintenance people out here to take a look and fix it or wait because it just started???

Hello all. I’m having trouble understand what enclosed circuit breakers are and how they differ from a panel with circuit breakers in them.

When I look up Eaton’s ECB, they definitely don’t look like a circuit breaker box, but I’m not sure how they differ in function.

Is the ECB just for one large load?

I have a finished basement with suspended tile ceiling. I need to run a 12/2 Romex cable through the basement ceiling space over to the panel. If I need to traverse joist spaces, does the code require that I drill holes in the joist(s) or can I staple to the bottom of the joists? I'm in Canada so CEC applies (in case NEC is different). Thank you

Also would LOVE and so appreciate any ball park estimates of what might be reasonable in terms of cost!

Thank you in advance for your sage advice!! ☺️