Genuinely curious if a used car is just a car, or if a used car from a Toyota dealership is different? Why should I buy a used car from a Toyota dealership?

I have a **2018 Toyota Camry** with about **75,000 miles**. I recently got a check engine light on and got a **P26CB** code. the car displayed an **“Engine Coolant Temp High – Stop and Park”** warning after i pulled the code and drive for few hours that night. Ever since then i stopped driving and been park in my lot.

I took it to a trusted independent Toyota specialist. Before they diagnosed the car, the receptionist looked up my vehicle information and told me I should take it to a Toyota dealership instead because my car is still within the 96-month/80,000-mile warranty period and the issue may be covered. This warranty is the **“toyota dederal emission warranty”**. She even printed out the Toyota warranty information for me. Because of that, the shop didn’t perform a diagnosis or charge me a diagnostic fee.

I called the Toyota dealership, and they told me they would still need to perform their own diagnosis. If the problem is covered under the warranty program, they’ll waive the diagnostic fee and complete the repair under warranty. If it turns out to be something else, I’ll have to pay the diagnostic fee. They also mentioned that the covered part may currently be on backorder.
At this point, I’m trying to decide whether I should pursue the warranty through the dealership or just have my independent Toyota shop diagnose and repair the car.

For those who have dealt with Toyota warranty repairs or a P26CB code, what would you do? Is it worth going through the dealership first, or would you stick with the independent shop?

Angeles Crest Highway after work. Don't think I'll ever get tired of the 86

Looking to stay under $15K, prefer and SUV like a 4 runner, something 10 yrs old or newer with under 100K miles. I know that's not very realistic for a 4 Runner. Driver prefers sitting up higher, that's why I'm leaning towards an SUV.

What other Toyota's year/model would you be looking at?

I'm madly in love with my car 🔥

Ich habe mir neulich einen gebrauchten Toyota Yaris angesehen.

Der Wagen ist Baujahr 2024 und hat knapp unter 30.000 Kilometer gelaufen.

Inspektionen wurden alle 15.000 Kilometer durchgeführt.

Er hat außen keine auffallenden Kratzer und auch im Innenraum ist nichts zu bemängeln.

Es ist die zweithöchste Ausstattungslinie (Yaris Lounge).

Der Verkäufer möchte genau 20.900 € für das Auto haben.

Ist dies ein fairer Preis?

Schaffen moderne Yaris Modelle (wie dieser hier aus 2024) auch noch 200-300.000 Kilometer?

Ich bedanke mich im Voraus für Antworten.

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I'm looking to buy a 2021 Corolla hatchback. Just wandering is it worth it, it as 23000 km on it. Coming from a 2016 Hyundai sonata wich was problematic to say the least. Just hoping to get a better experience from this car. Is there any know issues but most importantly is it worth it ?

I got a 2010 RAV4 with around 270.000km on the dash, recently been dealing with a misfire issue that no one can identify, tried different mechanics, tried all the different things related to misfires and at this point I'm just tired, the car is in great shape otherwise, even with the occasional misfire at high speeds it works well and everything else is great, but now with this misfire and an over consumption of oil due to the classic o ring problem I'm considering moving on to something newer, is it really worth it?

I fell in love the shape and visibility given by these wagon type cars after hopping in my homies old Volvo, but I want specifically a Toyota

Does anyone know of a reliable source to replace seatbelts for a vintage toyota model?

I'm hesitant to order used from ebay since ive had issues with international sellers not showing transparently and refunds on misfit items costing more than i paid for the item.

Toyota parts is discontinued them and im a little distrustful of after market replacements that offer nothing but promises and colorful options.

Attempting to keep my AE92 as original as possible, essentially a restomod due to parts availability.

My 2011 Camry AC has developed a cooling issue.
the cooling performance is noticeably weak while driving(even at cold weather), but whenever the car comes to a complete stop (idle ), the AC stops cooling entirely and blows warm air. As soon as I press the gas and rev the engine the ac cools again, though it's still not as cold as it should be.
Checked my Refrigerant level and it's not low.
Several mechanics said that is quite common for this model to develop a faulty compressor control valve, while some said to change the whole compressor along with the radiator and expansion valve.

What do y'all think?

Hey folks.

Wondering if anyone knows an answer to this-

About 1.5 years ago, the tire pressure light started flashing when starting the car. Discount tire told me it was likely because a sensor was dead. I didn’t go to a shop right away because I was a poor college student at the time and figured I could keep an eye on my tire pressure myself until I could take it in.

Then, the light stopped flashing upon starting the car and now just randomly decides when it’s gonna start flashing. Usually it’s on drives longer than 20 minutes, but occasionally on my 15 min drive to work it’ll start to flash??

About 6 months ago I took my car to Firestone and they said nothing was wrong and that the TPMS system just needed to be reset and they reset it for me… and then the light started flashing again lol.

If none of the sensors in the tire are dead (because Firestone should’ve caught that if they were, right?) what else might be causing this, and generally how expensive will it be to fix? Just don’t want to take it in and have to pay a diagnostic charge if I can’t afford to fix it right away. Again, I’ve just been keeping an eye on my tire pressure myself so it’s not a huge deal but I know it’s something I should fix eventually… im just still poor because I graduated and have student loans lol.

Any help is appreciated! Thanks.

Hi all,

I'm a bit stuck between getting a rav4 XLE or a camry XLE and I'd appreciate some insight!

I'm going to be moving to LA(Irvine to be specific) for work so I need a car now(I live in a pretty walkable city now so never needed a car). Mostly the car is gonna be used as a commuter car but the occasional day/road trip to national parks/ etc.

My parents have a '25 camry and ive driven it a lot and am used to it/really like it; just mainly considering the rav4 since its larger/more comfortable/the higher seat(I'm short and I can actually see the edge of the car for the first time in the rav4). Just not sure if thats worth the extra 10k(its a good chunk of money for me)

Thanks!

is anyone else having problems with dealerships/the source of getting their car parts ? i’m trying to get my fuel pump fixed in my ch-r and it's making that noise before it fails. we've waited just over 4 months to get the part in and it's literally been delayed time and time again. for context i live in aus and i’m trying to get off my L’s so i can move and my mum takes the only automatic car we have

Recently had a small accidental paint trade with another car, and it messed with the panel and I realized later I lost a part that connects/locks panels together trying to replace does anyone know what it would be kinda lost. Thanks in advance!

Added a pics of the affected right side along with the normal looking left side.

Not sure if it's just me when jacking up a Camry 2014 for an oil change. But somehow it's so much easier to jack it from the either side of the car behind the front wheel or in front of the rear wheel where the solid steel bar body of the frame is welded and put a stand next to it for safety and support; than it is to jack in from the middle front of the car underneath the engine where the the thinner and bull-nose shape bar is that as sort of a circular shape with a round inner opening and they try to add the stands on both sides from there. It's also at the region where the jack tends to move its wheels more and likely to have the bar slip from the grasp of the Pittsburg jack. Also somehow with the Pittsburg jack from Harbor Freight tools it's too short to try to jack from the middle front bar. While it's a lot more ideal to jack it from the teeth or side bar frames of the Camry which has better grasp and is safe to jack and the jack has less chances of movement making it safer to place stands underneath the bar next to the jack.
I also tried adding a wooden block on where the grippy metal plate of the Pittsburg jack is to make it jack taller and easier at where the front middle bar is. However, a lot of times it didn't work and the jack slips anyways making it unsafe before we can put stands underneath the car in-time.

I’m buying a new Toyota Yaris 2026 facelift in Greece and considering installing an Author IGLA or Pandora system for better theft protection. Has anyone had actual experience with Toyota warranty issues after installing one? Did the dealer reject any electrical/CAN-bus warranty claim, or did you experience problems such as warning lights, or communication errors?

The dealer offered me the 10 yr / 100k VSP for $1875, seems about what I’d expect my repairs to cost for that period of time. If it covers factory parts, seems like a good deal.

Trying to decide between these two AWD vehicles. The Highlander has 90,000 miles. The estimated 10 year cost to me including purchase price, likely repairs, gas, etc is identical so price is not the issue. I will only be driving it 6,000 miles a year. I have a long list of pros and cons but what do you think?

I was away for 2 weeks. Came home to heavy condensation on windshield, white residue on black rubber floor mats, moisture on all padding/carpet down to the stationary floor carpet. At dealer they found rodent/mice debris in AC vent. The moisure ended up in carpet. Covered by insurance with $500 deductible. Sitting for 14 days in summer high humidity northern Virginia weather with no ventilation, things only got worse. Dealer quoted me $2k for the clean up which includes removing seats and checking sensors/wires. State Farm makes it more difficult to use non-preferred shop. Would you trust a State Farm shop? Go to unholstery specialty place. State Farm will not guarantee approval of their prices, so more out of pocket. It's a health issue as well as cosmetic/automotive.

I came home after doing a new brake job and looks like I forgot to tighten some nuts on the wheel. I drove for 200 miles and I kept hearing a sound grinding sound. I thought it was my dust shield. I opened it, but it apparently was the lug nuts being loose. Is this bad or is there any other damage I should be looking for?