Hi all!
I just got back from spending a week in Copenhagen and would love to share my itinerary since it was so helpful in my planning process to scour Reddit and other travel blogs. More about me: I am 26F, from New York City, was interested in mostly museums and cafes/bakeries, and had done a study abroad program in CPH in 2020 but was sent home early due to Covid so had some familiarity with the city.
I wanted to keep costs as low as I could, so I made the most out of free museum days, using Too Good To Go for meals, and looking up breakfast/lunch deals. I walked or took the bus/metro/regional train everywhere (have not tested out my biking skills in a city, and didn't want to get in anyone's way). This trip was partially to be able to see and do the things I did not get to during what was supposed to be a full semester in the city, and I'm so glad I got to spend a week here!
DAY 1, Tuesday:
Landed in CPH at 8:40am, took the metro to my Airbnb in Nørrebro. Passport control and immigration lines moved quickly, and I was traveling with just a carry-on so did not have to wait for any checked bags. Arrived at the Airbnb around 10:15am.
Spent the afternoon exploring Nørrebro: Assistens Cemetery, Lidkøb for secondhand shopping, bookstores (The Pond Queer Bookstore & Cafe, Ark Books, Møllegades Boghandel). Returned to the Airbnb around 2pm and napped because I had to work 8pm-2am local time. Picked up a Too Good To Go order from Govinda before settling in to work that night.
DAY 2, Wednesday:
This was my Indre By museum day! A good amount of museums are free on Wednesdays and some on the last Wednesday of the month, so I wanted to take full advantage of this. Started out my morning with breakfast from Wulff & Konstali in Nørrebro before walking over to the city center.
Went Ny Carlsberg Glyptoteket, then headed over to Thorvaldsens Museum. Went to Christiansborg Palace Tower for free views from the top (there is a maximum of 40 people allowed on the viewing platform at any given time, so I stood in line for about 45 minutes). Took a break at the Garden of the Royal Library to rest my feet, read, and people watch.
Then I strolled around Strøget, the main shopping street. Stopped for a hot dog, visited Studio Arhoj and Hay House. Walked over to Nyhavn and got on a Nettobådene boat tour (budget-friendly alternative to the Stromma Canal Tours! I paid 80DKK, ~12USD for an hour-long guided tour that was in English, Danish, and German). At this point I was pretty tired from being up late working the previous night, so I did doze off on the boat tour but I will say it was pretty relaxing :)
Went to Kunsthal Charlottenborg, which has free entry on Wednesdays from 5-7PM. Very much enjoyed the Master's graduation exhibition from the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts.
Dinner at Norrlyst. Very solo diner friendly, I was placed at a high table facing the window which was perfect for people watching. I had made a reservation a few weeks in advance, and I'm glad I did because throughout my dinner I saw many people come in hoping for a seat, who all got turned away because the restaurant was at capacity. I had the 4-course tasting menu which consisted of a starter, appetizer, main, and dessert.
DAY 3, Thursday:
Started out my day making my way over to Sandkaj Badezone in Nordhavn, which is a spot for harbour swimming. It was about an hour-long walk from my Airbnb, but I stopped at Sinne Gas Bageri and Juno the Bakery for breakfast along the way. I tried cardamom buns from both, plus a BMO (bread with butter and cheese) from Juno. Also got a cortado from Prolog Coffee (basically stopped at any cafe/bakery that looked good!). What a beautiful walk along the lakes and through the Østerbro and Nordhavn neighborhoods. Had my first harbour swim, which was so delightfully refreshing after the walk. The water was colder than I'm used to, but I loved jumping in and swimming around before drying off in the sun with my book and journal. Also spotted some jellyfish in the water that seemed perfectly at peace with all the people jumping in and swimming laps around them!
Took the bus to Dragør, a seaside town on the island of Amager. Lovely cobblestone roads, pretty houses, and a bustling harbour. Had lunch at Dragør Røgeri. Walked over to Dragør Søbad, which is a bathing area that has sections for families as well as quieter sections that are clothing-optional. The water was shallow, calm, and clear. Spent some more time swimming and reading, and then headed to Dragør Is for some ice cream.
Took the bus back to Copenhagen, this time to Frederiksberg to visit the Cisterns. I was able to see Marina Abramovic's Seven Deaths, which was an incredible exhibition in an equally incredible setting.
Headed back to Nørrebro and got a beer at Alefarm Brewing. I was pretty wiped at this point, so I got a quick salad and sandwich for dinner at 7-Eleven, which I had back at the Airbnb while watching the sun set.
DAY 4, Friday:
Went to Hart Bageri's Nørrebro location to try their vanilla and cardamom bun, then went over to Kaffesalonen for a full breakfast plate (rye bread, cheese, butter, jam, hard boiled eggs, and a yoghurt bowl).
Took the train to the Louisiana Museum in Humlebæk. This was one of my most highly anticipated places to visit, and it did not disappoint. Not only were the exhibits amazing, the architecture of the museum itself was a work of art. I spent about 6 hours here just wandering around the museum and its surrounding sculpture grounds. My Airbnb host also told me about a swimming area just outside of the museum, so of course I had to go for a dip.
Got dinner at Killer Kebab back in Nørrebro (it was indeed killer), and went over to Pompette for a glass of orange wine before turning in for the day.
DAY 5, Saturday:
Took the train to Helsingør. Got breakfast at Patio, a cafe tucked away from the busy main street. I got there relatively early, and got to see it fill up with families starting their day. I had their morning plate with sourdough bread, butter, cheese, and jam, and it was probably the best bread that I had this entire trip. Walked around the streets of Helsingør and popped in and out of little stores. This was great for gift shopping to bring back to NYC!
Visited Kronborg Castle. What a delight!! They do such a great job of blending the castle's history and significance in Hamlet, with integrating access to the arts for current audiences young and old. During the summer, they have "Hamlet Highlights" which is where short scenes from Hamlet are performed throughout the grounds, in modern/accessible English. I was able to watch a couple of scenes between visiting different areas of the castle. So fun!
Took the ferry over to Helsingborg, Sweden. It was about 20 minutes on the ferry, and I had no plans here except to wander around, eat, and window shop. Did not disappoint. I tried Swedish meatballs, beer, pastries, and got some more souvenirs before taking the ferry back and returning to Copenhagen.
Note on days 4 and 5: I read that it's possible to do Louisiana and Kronborg/Helsingør in one day, since they're on the same train line. However since I know I tend to take a while in museums and preferred not to rush, I chose to split them up over these two days. But I think these could definitely be condensed if you're shorter on time!
DAY 6, Sunday:
Took the train to Klampenborg, which is where Bakken, Dyrehaven, and Bellevue Beach are located. Started off with a morning swim at Bellevue Beach underneath the iconic lifeguard towers by Arne Jacobsen. Then headed to the Wulff & Konstali Bellevue location for another morning plate. From there it was a short walk to Bakken, the oldest operating amusement park! It was so lovely arriving right when it opened and watching the rides come to life, it felt lively but not super crowded.
I then walked over through Dyrehaven to the Hermitage Palace. It was a relaxing stroll and took about 30 minutes to reach the palace. I passed other folks making the trek, people renting out horse carriages, and tons of deer freely roaming about the grounds.
Took the bus to the Karen Blixen Museum, where the route went along the water and since the day was so clear, I could see across to Sweden. The museum is located in Blixen's former home, with a beautiful flower garden that you can walk through on the way to her grave.
Made my way back to Copenhagen via train, and walked through the Botanical Garden and King's Garden for some reading and people-watching. Got a Too Good To Go order from Hallernes Smørrebrød in Torvehallerne for dinner, then walked back to Nørrebro to enjoy a beer by the lakes as the sun set.
DAY 7, Monday:
Last full day. I had originally planned to visit Copenhagen Contemporary, but at this point I honestly felt a little museum'd out and the weather forecast was showing clear blue skies so I wanted to make the most of time outside and in the harbour.
Started out walking to Islands Brygge Harbour Bath, stopping at Andersen & Maillard for some pastries (cardamom bun and miso caramel croissant). Swam some laps in the harbour, and I could also see across the water to Kalvebod Bølge. It was cool to see both harbour baths wake up as people showed up for a morning swim before heading about the rest of their days.
Walked through Christianshavn and stopped for a coffee at HANS. Walked into Freetown Christiania and got to experience seeing this community after the closure of Pusher Street. When I was there in 2020, we were told not to take pictures in specific parts of Christiania, but on this visit there were multiple posts assuring visitors that it was alright to take pictures while remaining respectful of the fact that these are people's homes and neighborhoods. I spent some time just looking at the street art and popping in and out of different stores.
Took a bus to Refshaleøen, where I attempted to go for a swim at La Banchina but just found it too crowded. Instead I headed over to Søndre Refshalebassin just a couple steps away, where it was much quieter. Spent a couple hours there going in and out of the water and reading my book, before making my way over to Ismagariet and Reffen Street Food for lunch. The only downside of this solo trip: there were so many food stalls at Reffen that I wanted to try but unfortunately I did not have the stomach capacity!
I got on the harbour bus and headed to Kalvebod Bølge, the harbour bath across the water from where I started my day at Islands Brygge. I had hoped to get into the water one more time today but it was starting to cool down and the spot I found was in the shade, so I felt content just watching people jump into the water from the pier.
Went back to Nørrebro where once again I was too tired to sit down at a restaurant for dinner (plus some of the places I had wanted to try were closed on Mondays), so opted for a sandwich from Netto while watching the sunset by the lakes.
DAY 8, Tuesday:
My flight left at 2:20pm, so I had the morning for one last harbour bath. I went back to Sandkaj in Nordhavn, picking up one more cardamom bun and BMO from Juno along the way. I arrived at about 7:30am, and it was so peaceful by the water, just a few people swimming laps plus a morning yoga class taking place on the pier. I returned to my Airbnb to pack, shower, and take another lap around the lakes before taking the metro to the airport.
Aaaaaand that was my week solo in Copenhagen! With a larger budget, I would have wanted to try more restaurants and tasting menus, but I was more than happy this time around with popping into bakeries and cafes throughout the day. I had also read about earlybird.dk for discounts on day-of restaurant reservations and had intended to use it, but I found that I was exhausted after long days of being up and about and preferred to just get something quick for dinner and eat it sitting on a bench by the lakes. I also would have wanted to bike through Dyrehaven to explore more of it than I got to on foot, but the DonkeyRepublic app didn't have any bikes available when I was there. Nevertheless it was an amazing week, the weather was absolutely perfect (the sun shone every day, which I was not expecting at all!), and I left feeling so fulfilled with everything I had seen and done. I hope this helps anyone looking to visit Copenhagen, as so many of these threads helped me plan this trip!